Project Double D's

[punjig]

Looks like the painter is laying down some color!!! He sent me pics of the top today!!! The first pic is a little older, I thought I would include it as it is the visor to the top.













Also, the inside of the inner fenders are what we rhino-lined. The engine compartment side is painted to match the firewall and under-hood.
We did this to help control road noise. When the time comes, I will be dynamatting (peel-n-seal) the inside to help also.

 

[punjig]

Well it was time to do something about plugging up the smog pump air holes in the heads. I had just regular plugs which were fine when I had the stock exhaust manifolds on. I played like hell getting the p.o. Custom home made plugs out. Some were like the ones below and some were just home made jobs (bolts with their heads cut off???)
sorry about the fuzzy pics



But like I stated before I have done a lot of reading on these forums for many years and I know a lot of people have had problems with the “chirp/whistle” after putting headers on. A regular plug will not fill the cavity left inside the exhaust port. So it creates the effect of blowing across a coke bottle. Which in turn creates the “chirp/whistle”

so I stole an idea from one of bill hamilton’s old post.
First I built a proto-type plug. A 5/16 line nut and a piece of 5/16 rod. I used one of my other old blocks for the test fit. Once I got it just the right length to fill the cavity I tacked welded it together.



Then I got some bolts that were socket caps and a buddy of mine turned them down to match the proto-type for me. They came out pretty nice.



Since they were straight threads and not a npt (which would create a better seal) I added some permatex ultra copper to the shafts and the treads.



I did this for 2 reasons.
Frist, it will provide a good seal.
Second, it will provide a anti-lock of sorts so when the carbon starts to build the treads will not get filled with the carbon. This should allow for easy removal when the time ever comes. That is also the reason I chose to use a bigger head style for these plugs. This will allow me to gain leverage on the plugs for removal.
We'll see how well it all works when I get the motor fired up in another couple of weeks!

 

[DC67 800]

This build is great. I wish I could have taken mine down to the point you have with the total frame off. You will have 40+ yr old Scout that looks like it just rolled off the show room floor.

I am curious about your transmission cross member supports. When I made mine I cut off the factory 800 motor mount supports(used after market mounts for the Chevy motor), turned them upside down and welded them on as supports for the tranny mounts. Yours look very similar. Are those factory Scout II or motor mount supports?

 

[punjig]

Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it.

as far as the tranny x mount supports, I took the factories off as they had the old "rag" hangers for the exhaust. That basically made it to big and in the way. So I took a piece of 1 1/2" (might have been 2" I'm getting old) flat straight stock steel and put it in my shop vise. It heated it up and used old mr. Persuasion to make a 90* bend. Flipped it over and did the other side. I cut both sides at a 45* and that was that. I used the same method to build the air tank mounts. What can I say, I'm married and have have to cut costs at times! Or I get the old !!!
The tranny support itself was from IH parts, replacement oem polyurethane.

 

[FDChappie]

Perhaps these could work for those who don't have a lathe handy.


Point style extended
material alloy steel
thread size 5/16"-18
screw size 5/16" (0.312")
length 1/2"
drive style hex socket
hex size 5/32"
(a) 0.203"
(b) 0.164"

 

[punjig]

I think you are correct, those would have worked well. I was doing a little looking for something like that and could not find a solution. I am fortunate I have a buddy with a lathe.:d

 

[punjig]

The painter has sent me a few pics of the doors and fenders. He is on a roll. Looks like he's getting close. Hopefully more to come in the next few days!

 

[Tahoedonner]

Not sure why this is the first time I'm reading this build but I love it so far.

 

[FDChappie]

That blue color is great too. Are you going to do some black stripes???

 

[punjig]

not sure why this is the first time I'm reading this build but I love it so far.

Thanks for the kind words! it means alot to get support from the IH community. Btw donner, I hope you don't mind, but I did steal a few of your ideas from you build. I liked you steering wheel so much that I purchased it from jegs. I hope you don't mind!:d

 

[punjig]

that blue color is great too. Are you going to do some black stripes???

Well chappie, the over all paint scheme is the blue with the silver top (the silver was actually pulled out of the blue). Silver bumpers, rock sliders, roll bar, and a silver stripe towards the top of the doors to pull it all together! The stripe will look like and be in the same place as the old stripe. We did about 4 different photoshops of it and almost everyone picked the paint scheme I just describe, I just hope it turns out as nice!

 

[Tahoedonner]

thanks for the kind words! it means alot to get support from the IH community. Btw donner, I hope you don't mind, but I did steal a few of your ideas from you build. I liked you steering wheel so much that I purchased it from jegs. I hope you don't mind!:d

Don't sweat it. I pretty much started out with an idea then read a thousand builds and molded it from there. Looking forward to seeing the finished paint job.

 

[punjig]

O.k. It has been awhile since my last post but have been able to get a few things done in the past month or so.
So far I have been busy with work, but I have managed to get a few things done.

I did not like the front brake line with the couple of dings it had in it.




So I used the old one as a template


And I took my time and I bent a new one




I also cut a access hole onto the gas tank






I will be installing a internal fuel pump and will be using walbro pick ups.
One will go in each corner. They close themselves off when they are not in the fuel so they will not suck air. No need for an internal pickup baffle with these things!




When I get it all back together I will be welding some diamond plate on the bottom to reinforce the bottom of the tank.

 

[punjig]

In the meantime I got notice from the painter and the body was sprayed.


I went down to give him a hand to put the front clip on. He’s a one man show and it gives me a reason for getting out of the house! we needed the body put back together so that we could mask out the stripe that was getting painted on.






The painter was not to sure about masking a stripe to paint it. It looks simple but it actually is a complicated stripe to mask for paint. So I called in my good buddy who has done this kind of thing. He came down and took measurements. He cut the masking out on a vinyl cutter and him and I laid the stripe out.

These are pictures of the stripe taken in the paint boot. So the blue changes look in the different lights. This is the hood.




These are the doors.




Another pic of the doors when I got them home.


The fenders.


And now the cab with the top.




As you can see, the stripe goes all the way around the whole Scout. It also jogs up in the rear and on the front fender, then goes over the hood. It was those jogs plus the compound curve around the back above the tail lights that made this simple stripe so complicated.
And I thought these next two pics were just cool pictures.




That's it for now. Just need to finish up the gas tank, put the tranny lines on then I can place the tub back onto its home.

 

[punjig]

It has been awhile since my last update. Work, family, etc. Have kept me busy. Anyways, I have been busy trying to remake my transmission lines. Nothing was wrong with the original set except they where going to be to short with the body lift. So, I made another set but kink them on the last bend. 3rd time was a charm.

Below are some pics:




I needed to mock up the radiator to sit 2in higher for the body lift. So, after I did my goseintas I figured out how high to stack the blocks. Oh and yes, there was some element of redneck engineering!!!











There was a lot involved! I had to miss the tranny pad, exhaust and o2 sensor bung area, and still miss the oil dipstick. There were a lot of exact bends that needed to be made. I know I could have bought new flexible s.s. Lines, but the idea of this build is to maintain just enough of the old style stock feel. Old school cooollll!!!!!

 

[Tahoedonner]

it has been awhile since my last update. Work, family, etc. Have kept me busy. Anyways, I have been busy trying to remake my transmission lines. Nothing was wrong with the original set except they where going to be to short with the body lift. So, I made another set but kink them on the last bend. 3rd time was a charm.

Below are some pics:


View attachment 27325

I needed to mock up the radiator to sit 2in higher for the body lift. So, after I did my goseintas I figured out how high to stack the blocks. Oh and yes, there was some element of redneck engineering!!!

View attachment 27326

View attachment 27327

View attachment 27328

View attachment 27329

View attachment 27330

There was a lot involved! I had to miss the tranny pad, exhaust and o2 sensor bung area, and still miss the oil dipstick. There were a lot of exact bends that needed to be made. I know I could have bought new flexible s.s. Lines, but the idea of this build is to maintain just enough of the old style stock feel. Old school cooollll!!!!!

That rear line on the trans seems to be almost touching the exhaust. I'm no expert but that seems like it will heat up massively. Might need to wrap the exhaust.

 

[punjig]

Ya, I here ya. From the pic it looks like its touching, but it actually has about a 1-1/2 of clearance. Either way you are correct, and mirror my thoughts exactly. heat wrap will be getting applied to the tranny and gas lines before the body goes on!

please keep the replies coming, I love to here all the different ideas!

 

[punjig]

So I was digging around all of my old bolts that came off the Scout to try and find 4 matching bolts for the water pump.



When I found this gem! I have seen these online but never thought I would find on in my pile! Just thought it was cool!

 

[punjig]

Ok, so I wanted a nice deep aluminum transmission pan to keep things cool. I looked and looked and finally found one made by tpi that did not have a manufactures name scribed all over it (it is a tci transmission pan pn=128015, in case anyone was interested). The problem with the pan is the fact that it has a notch that sticks out and hits the front drive shaft. Here is a manufacturer pic of the pan.



I went ahead and cut a section out of the pan and moved the notched part in about a half of an inch and welded. This worked but the tolerances on the drive-shaft was still a little tight at full suspension flex. So I had to hand rasp some more of the notch. I didn't want to take the chance going all the way though the wall with a air grinder.





A leak test with water was preformed overnight and it all held good.



Next a skim coat needed to be applied. This was the first step into restoring the pan to look as though it had been cut on. Regular bondo would not work for the skim coat simply for the properties to aluminum expanding and contracting when hot and cold. An epoxy made for aluminum was used as a skim coat.



Then, the textured needed to be matched. I used a spray in bed liner touch up can at the local auto parts store, then a hint of glossy black. Then I sanded the fins and polished them back to like new. If you look close two fins became one. It took some work to make them look that way.





Now there is plenty of clearance for the drive shaft and a good looking/funtional pan to boot!

 

[punjig]

I caught a little bug that knocked me on my a$$ for about 10days. That made what slow progress I make from day to day come to a halt!

So, after feeling better I got busy on the fuel tank. As previously mentioned, I installed an walbro internal fuel pump (packaged by f.a.s.t.) and walbro pick ups.
I got the 3/8 diamond plate welded to it. This will serve as a rock guard and it cover the warped under panels from the manufacturer. And I also think it looks cool!

here are a few pics of it on the chassis.







Here are some pics of the tank and the final plumbing!





Next move is to figure out all of the custome wiring so that I can pull new wire within the chassis from front to rear. It's a good thing I know something about killyvolts!!! :d:d

.