Power Problems

If the throttle plates are hanging in their bores at any point, that's a problem. You need to be sure of this, as fixing would require carb removal. I suggest having the throttle cable and return spring completely unhooked so you can manipulate the throttle linkage by hand with no other influencing factors involved. If you feel the linkage bind at all, the carb will need to come off for a throttle plate inspection and adjustment. A plate misalignment would have a negative impact on vacuum at idle as well.
I don't see you needing larger jets. There's some other explanation for these oddities, and I think the answer lies elsewhere within your carb. How's that for ominous? I've yet to be impressed with a remanned carb. The attention to detail and quality control just isn't there like it should be. The gaskets and other wear parts are often of poor quality. Your fuel bowl gasket being just one example. If we completely dismantled this carb, I bet we'd find others. We May eventually reach a point where you will have to decide if putting up with decent to slightly erratic operation is something you can live with for awhile or not. I'm not giving up or losing interest. I'm just being real. There are only so many external tweaks, fiddle-diddles and experiments to try. The next level is a bit more involved. As in pulling the carb apart for a do over on the rebuild. We're not there yet, but that decision May be on the horizon.
You're essentially right about the mix screws. They restrict fuel flow at idle. The further clockwise they are turned, the greater the fuel restriction, or leaner the mixture. Whichever you prefer. Right now, your idle mix is towards the Rich end of the spectrum.
 
Tracking. I took off the linkage, no diference. I took off the brake vac, plugged it and it showed a small increase in vac like 1/2hg maybe slightly more. I think the seal that goes into the break housing is the culprit of that one, but 1/2hg not a huge deal.
So I took of the linkage and noticed that the throttle felt squishy, like it had a rubber bumper. I took the ci in until the squisyness went away and then gave it just a little more.
I started the rig and adjusted the fa screws until I pulled max vac I could find. So.. I'm not sure how I did it, but I finaly got the ci at 700rpm, and the vac is just a smidge over 18hg. I let the rig run for about 7 minutes and no drop in rpm's. I think I am going to remove the vacumme tree in the back, clean it up and plug all the unnecessary ports, replace all the vac lines and see what that does, if nothing else I will know everything is sealed good.

Next issue. Tonight I noticed that my ampmeter is on the low side, and if I turn on anything the gage drops, the more I turn on the more drop. Lights are dim. If I rev up the motor the meter goes up. I only ask because I have not noticed this in the past. I hooked up a multimeter, alt is pushing 12.35v.
Am I right to be concerned?
 
Well good job on the carb adjustments. I'm not sure what you did either, but it sounds good as long as it holds up.
You should expect to see between 13 and 14 volts of output depending on engine speed. This can be measured at the alternator and at the battery + post.
 
At idle it's pushing 12.35 from the heavy bleu. I think I might have a problem with the starter selonoid. Can I swap just the selonoid or do I have to swat the whole starter?
I was checking voltage in multiple locations and the post going to the bat is loose.
 
The solenoid down on the starter can be removed from the starter and replaced separately, but this May be easier to do with the starter out on the bench. There should be two nuts on that large lug. One to keep the lug tight and one to secure the wires in place.
 
Got her fixed, I only removed the selonoid, it had a huge chunk missing from the plastic part where the 3 wires were connected, it was actually a quick swap. On the other side of luck. I had to chang the alt, it was only pushing 9volts this morning. Made that swap and put the rig to work no issues. This evening poof, smoke and fire from near the selonoid. Apparently the heavy blue wire was up against the headder and had melted through earlier in the day. It is now in 2 pieces. I can see where is was right up against it. Soooo I replace the wire and the connector, and checked it all out, good to go. Finnished all the plowing.
Hopefully no more demons pop up.
Thank again for all the education.
Have a happy new year.
 
Geez...you've had your fair share of them. You've kept a good attitude through it all. These trucks are pretty dependable once you get them to a certain point. The lucky few somehow end up with the unmolested barn finds that only need fresh fluids and a battery. The rest of us must muddle through a litany of po hogwash repairs before we even get a chance to catch our breath. Its the life isn't it? Well, if we wanted it easy I guess we would have all bought heep wranglers. You're making headway. Stick with it. Happy new year.
 
I'll 2nd that. My Scout has been my daily driver and reliable as could be since I bought it in 1984. The only issue with these rigs are the original steel shim head gaskets rot out and cam bearings. And I've run for years and thousands of miles with shot cam bearings. Glad you stuck through it. Maybe this summer you'll tear it down and do a nice build-up. Not many scouts in pa.
 
I would agree, not many around here and when you do find them they are either rotted beyond repair or the owners don't want to part with them.

@ scoutboy, this is the way my luck goes. I have gotten use to it over the years. I expect nothing to be easy, and always expect the more expensive route. That way I feel like I'm ahead when something goes right. Lol

I have wanted to fix up an old truck for years, now I have an old truck to fix.
 
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