oil leak

Well I think yall finely scared the $h!t out of me. I guess I need to read up on fuel lines (and prbobably how to bleed them), the throttle cable, and what ever a trans kickdown linkage is...

I have the manuals, I guess I should stop ripping the pages out for paper airplanes and make good use of them...

Here goes some knowledge learnin'. I will check back in once edumicated
 
So I was talking to my shade tree mechanic Dad and his neighbor, who couldnt walk across the street but had to get in his gator. So concerned for his safety mind you, he had his sawed off 12 ga "door buster" at his side. Sorry for the unnecessary info...

The two of them started jibberin' about something and a couple of beechnut spits later came to the conclusion I remove 1 qt of oil, replace it with resolin (sp), run it 300 miles and change the oil. To a straight 40wt. All should be fixed, right?

I googled resolin and nothing came up. I guess a)what does this stuff do; b)will it work c) forget everything they said and continue with gasket operation.
 
I think they meant rislone, which is a brand name comprised of several different engine treatment products. When you drain out just one quart, you still have x amount of dirty oil in your crankcase, so I'm struggling to grasp the logic behind that suggestion. Maybe I'm just slow on the uptake here, but if the idea is to flush your system, wouldn't it make more sense to start as fresh and clean as possible? As for the oil weight, unless you are operating in an extreme, hot climate year round, straight 40 wt oil is way too heavy. If the temp was anywhere near freezing, you'd never get your poor engine to turn over with that molasses in the crank case. The original spec when these rigs were new was 30wt in moderate climates. That was established before multi-viscosity oil came on the scene. Multi-vis is far more versatile than single weight motor oil. 20w-50 is a great, year round choice if you live in a moderate climate. If your winter time temps are regularly 20f or below, then you would want to run 15w-40 in the coldest months. The other important consideration is filter choice. I recommend wix, hastings, baldwin, or purolator pure 1 in that order. You May notice that fram is not included in that list...and for good reason. The basic fram offering is very poorly constructed. While the higher level f's are probably a little better, I still think your money is better spent with any of the others previously mentioned.
I'll leave you with one final thought to ponder. Consider the qualifications of the folks offering you advice. I'll wager that none of them, including myself, is an ase certified auto tech. The difference between your neighbors and those of us who've chimed in on this thread is, we live and breathe these rigs. We May not have all the answers, but from a collective standpoint, there aren't too many facets of them that will stump us for very long. In most cases, we know what works and what doesn't. That's knowledge gained primarily through our own trial and error. Everyone means well, but this is still your rig. The responsibility of making the right decisions rests entirely on your shoulders. There is a lot you can do to educate yourself to that end, here on this forum. There is an oil tech subsection chock full of info and a recent thread pertaining to different grades of wix filters in the basic tech section, I believe, that is also quite informative.
 
I assure you I wasn't questioning you and the forum. Just asking about the idea is rislone. Rest assured, I tried to paint the best picture of my Dad and his swash-bucklin' buddy, I could. Just I have never heard of rislone. I finally figures out the correct spelling (annunciation) and read that there isn't anything proven about the product.

My thoughts are this.... Replace all the gaskets as you all suggested. Dump in some swepco 306 and cross my fangers.

I walked outside this morning and I have a pancake on the ground, pretty sure they are dry rotted. Working on getting BFG m/t... Hope the wife agrees...
 
I didn't think you were. I was just trying to paint some perspective and express my puzzlement about the idea of draining only one quart of dirty oil out to make room for whatever additive. Swepco oil is top shelf.
 
Rislone, amazing that stuff is still around.

It's been around since the 30's, maybe I remember ads from the 20's. Anyway, it's about 90% kerosene and it was a maintenance chore occasionally used in the day to flush a crankcase with kerosene. Remember this was during non-detergent oils, leaded gas, filters that trapped mostly large particulate, and draft tube breathers. An engine with sludge build-up was a common problem particularly for stop-n-go, short delivery trucks, and taxi services. Flushing depended on mileage, time, or what a rocker cover looked like.

It could help with engine rejuvenation, provided you weren't so far gone you might actually plug something up. But with detergent oils that really got good from the 60's onward, and pcv systems that were a major improvement towards cleaner crankcases beside air pollution control; you're better off , and I mean way better off, following your present course. Trevor hit the nail on the head with his oil/filter recommendations.
 
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