No Start No Crank No Nothing

int77345 said:
what's wrong with the fuel pump ?
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bad wiring. i think i’ve got it working now. i cut out the connection and replaced it. the fuse block is a little sketchy too, so i’m going to do a little updating to the connections. i will eventually replace it with a modern fuse block, but this will buy me some time. ultimately, all my issues are coming down to wiring so far.
 
Right on! No, you don't need the relay unless you want to have a functional NS system. Right now, you are able to crank your starter with the gear selector in any position, and the engine can be started with the trans in gear. If that bothers you, then you will need a relay in conjunction with proper wiring between it and the NS switch in the trans.
 
Scoutboy74 said:
Right on! No, you don't need the relay unless you want to have a functional NS system. Right now, you are able to crank your starter with the gear selector in any position, and the engine can be started with the trans in gear. If that bothers you, then you will need a relay in conjunction with proper wiring between it and the NS switch in the trans.
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Okay, I am going to track that relay down. Thanks again for all the details.
 
Suddenly this problem is back… My Scout has been starting and running just fine for a while now. I haven’t started it in a couple weeks because I have the steering wheel off while replacing the turn signal switch and had ordered a couple other parts to install before putting the column back together. Today I tried to start up so I could try the turn signals out and see what other light issues I need to fix. NOTHING. No lights now though also.

I tested the battery for voltage and it’s 12+ volts. I tested the battery connection to the starter and it’s the same. I test the S terminal on the solenoid and it’s reading 0. Is this just a bad solenoid on my brand new (refurbished) starter?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I think more than likely your tinkering inside the column has fouled the column mounted ignition switch. Maybe the linkage rod between the key tumbler and the switch itself is out of place. That's where I'd be focusing my attention. On the area you messed with last. Ackum's (spelling?) Razor. The most likely possibility is often the correct one.
 
Scoutboy74 said:
I think more than likely your tinkering inside the column has fouled the column mounted ignition switch. Maybe the linkage rod between the key tumbler and the switch itself is out of place. That's where I'd be focusing my attention. On the area you messed with last. Ackum's (spelling?) Razor. The most likely possibility is often the correct one.
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Occam’s Razor…

Okay, I will check that rod when I get home tonight. Why would that knock out the headlights and power everywhere else though?
 
Scoutboy74 said:
I think more than likely your tinkering inside the column has fouled the column mounted ignition switch. Maybe the linkage rod between the key tumbler and the switch itself is out of place. That's where I'd be focusing my attention. On the area you messed with last. Ackum's (spelling?) Razor. The most likely possibility is often the correct one.
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That rod seems perfectly in place. I am going to crack open the manual and start tracing power back from the fuse block, but if you have any suggestions on what might have caused a full power outage, let me know. As I recall, when I installed the turn signal switch I had power, then turned off the key and left it until yesterday.

Thanks,
Mike
 
I went for the low hanging fruit. You're right. The igntion had nothing to do with the headlight switch. Chappie has it. The BHC is the next junction downstream from the starter solenoid.
 
FDChappie said:
The bulkhead connector is where to start checking. The one below the hood latch.
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Are you talking about the connection, specifically, between the S terminal and the NSS relay? When I added that relay a couple months ago, I ran straight from S to that relay, bypassing the BHC, not through the BHC. I did check for voltage at the NSS relay and it’s a solid 0 there as well. If not, is there something else I am checking in this connector? I haven’t had a chance to take a look tonight, so hopefully in the morning before work.
 
The main power feed to everything in the cab passes through this connector. Pull it apart, examine and clean the contacts on both sides of the connector. Check for voltage on the engine side of the larger gauge wires. Got volts? Reconnect and see if your cab power has been restored.
 
Scoutboy74 said:
The main power feed to everything in the cab passes through this connector. Pull it apart, examine and clean the contacts on both sides of the connector. Check for voltage on the engine side of the larger gauge wires. Got volts? Reconnect and see if your cab power has been restored.
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Okay, that’s my plan then. Thanks, both, for the notes.
 
Found it! The connection to my voltmeter had come loose. All the power runs through the voltmeter before connecting to the fuse block.

Thanks again,
Mike
 
small hijack, im having a very similar issue on m y 71 1210 pickup(manual trans 2wd 345 v8) new battery new pos/neg cables. solid connection to stater cylanoid,new battery,new ign switch. after getting everytihn togeth i get a click an nothing else. the wiring from back of alt getts stupid hot(did find a crap ton of mising insulation) any ideas on were to start? once again sorry for small hijack
 
Where is your ground cable from the battery bolted? Should be to the engine block or something that is bolted to the engine block such as the alternator bracket. Do not ground the battery directly to the frame. Instead, you should have a braided copper ground strap between the engine block and the frame. Then you can have a smaller gauge ground wire running off the Negative clamp to the body sheet metal.
 
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