No power

Oh and quantity. 6 quarts with a new filter hits the full mark. One thing though, if this Scout will be seeing extended highway speed cruises, you'll want to be one quart over the full mark or 7 total quarts. Reason being is with the Scout II funky dual sump oil pan, the oil returning back to the pan during extended upper rpm driving won't keep up with what's being pumped back to the top of the engine. So the factory fix for this...and no, I'm not kidding or making this up... is to run one quart over the full mark. No shit. It won't hurt anything to be overfull by 1.
 
Oh and quantity. 6 quarts with a new filter hits the full mark. One thing though, if this Scout will be seeing extended highway speed cruises, you'll want to be one quart over the full mark or 7 total quarts. Reason being is with the Scout II funky dual sump oil pan, the oil returning back to the pan during extended upper rpm driving won't keep up with what's being pumped back to the top of the engine. So the factory fix for this...and no, I'm not kidding or making this up... is to run one quart over the full mark. No shit. It won't hurt anything to be overfull by 1.
Well sorry for the long awaited update I got pretty busy but I got new oil in it and I tried to give it a crank today and it tried to start its own after I gave it a crank and luckily I installed a battery kill switch to prevent anything from damaging and positive battery line got hot but before this happened I did check for spark with a buddy of mine and it has spark so I think it's very close to kicking on but I have no idea of why it's trying to crank on its own after trying to start it
 
If I understand correctly, what you're saying is the starter motor is continuing to crank the engine even after you've switched the key to off. Is that correct? The last time you posted before this, you didn't indicate any such issues with cranking. Is this a new thing that just popped up all of a sudden since last time? As for the POS cable getting hot, how long were you cranking the starter before you decided to stop? Crank intervals should be no longer than 30 seconds followed by a brief rest to let the starter cool in between attempts. If adequate spark and fuel are present at the right time, it really shouldn't take but a few seconds of cranking for the engine to at least bark off for a quick second.
 
If I understand correctly, what you're saying is the starter motor is continuing to crank the engine even after you've switched the key to off. Is that correct? The last time you posted before this, you didn't indicate any such issues with cranking. Is this a new thing that just popped up all of a sudden since last time? As for the POS cable getting hot, how long were you cranking the starter before you decided to stop? Crank intervals should be no longer than 30 seconds followed by a brief rest to let the starter cool in between attempts. If adequate spark and fuel are present at the right time, it really shouldn't take but a few seconds of cranking for the engine to at least bark off for a quick second.
Yes it continued to crank after we turned off the ignition and we didn't crank it for long but it just kept on going but thankfully there is a battery cutoff switch so we were able to shut it off before anything got damaged but I just noticed that the positive terminal was warm and we also found out right after this that there's no key lock for the ignition so we can just turn it without a key so I was wondering that maybe because of that it was wanting to start on its own and we might have to replace it or maybe there's a short circuit because there was rats at one point
 
Yes it continued to crank after we turned off the ignition and we didn't crank it for long but it just kept on going but thankfully there is a battery cutoff switch so we were able to shut it off before anything got damaged but I just noticed that the positive terminal was warm and we also found out right after this that there's no key lock for the ignition so we can just turn it without a key so I was wondering that maybe because of that it was wanting to start on its own and we might have to replace it or maybe there's a short circuit because there was rats at one point
But yes this is something new and what was weird is that when we tested for spark we were able to crank it normally but as soon as we wanted to try to kick it on it just kept on wanting to crank so I feel like it's very close to starting up but every time we do it feels like there's a new issue that arises
 
So when you tested for spark, were you using some type of remote switch from under the hood, but then when you tried to start it you were doing it from the key switch? I'm just trying to arrive at what circumstance(s), if any may have been different between testing and actual start attempt. The key tumbler in the column can wear out after so many key in/key out cycles. The one in my Scout is that way too, although it will still allow me to lock up the steering wheel with the key in if I turn it to the lock position. When out of the lock position, I too can fire up the engine without the key inserted. I actually don't mind it. Kinda nice during the winter when I stop by the post office to check the mail. I can pull the keys, but leave the engine running while I bop inside and grab the mail real quick. Anyway, the fact that the tumbler is worn out isn't the reason for the starter run on.
 
So when you tested for spark, were you using some type of remote switch from under the hood, but then when you tried to start it you were doing it from the key switch? I'm just trying to arrive at what circumstance(s), if any may have been different between testing and actual start attempt. The key tumbler in the column can wear out after so many key in/key out cycles. The one in my Scout is that way too, although it will still allow me to lock up the steering wheel with the key in if I turn it to the lock position. When out of the lock position, I too can fire up the engine without the key inserted. I actually don't mind it. Kinda nice during the winter when I stop by the post office to check the mail. I can pull the keys, but leave the engine running while I bop inside and grab the mail real quick. Anyway, the fact that the tumbler is worn out isn't the reason for the starter run on.
No there's no fancy key switch I just had an extra spark plug that went to the scout and I just took one of the spark plug wires off and put it to ground of the engine and let my buddy crank it for a split second just to see if there was Spark and after we confirmed it had Spark then we put a small amount of gas in the carb and tried to crank it and then the issue of it wanted to keep on cranking after we turned off the ignition came up. So if the Tumblr isn't the issue that kind of tells me that there might be a short circuit somewhere especially since I know rats used to be in the engine bay and they love to chew on wire so this might be a lovely electrical Expedition to find the short circuit
 
There are several possibilities, bad wiring being one. A faulty ignition switch being another. The ignition switch isn't physically attached to the key tumbler. There is a plunger rod that runs between the key tumbler and the IGN switch. The IGN switch is attached to the top of the steering column behind the dash. When you turn the key, the plunger rod acts remotely to cycle the switch to and fro between the various detents or positions. First thing I suggest is hit up your local parts store and buy a diagnostic starter switch, aka "Loser Switch". If you've never seen one, what they are is either a thumb button or a pistol grip with trigger, plus a two wire lead that has alligator clamps on the terminus end. They're inexpensive and super handy. What it will let you do is crank the starter while under the hood by yourself without even needing to touch the key switch. All you do is connect one gator clamp to the large solenoid terminal and the other gator clamp to the small solenoid terminal labeled 'S'. With your disconnect at the ready, try starter cranking first with the IGN switch OFF. Does the starter run on? If not, try it a couple more times just to be sure. If all is well, you can next rig a temporary jumper wire from the battery POS over to the coil POS terminal. This is going to completely bypass the IGN switch. Caution, don't leave this jumper wire connected until you are ready to attempt an engine start and don't leave it connected after you are done testing. This wire will be your kill switch if the engine does fire up and run. Yank the wire and the running engine will stop.
 
There are several possibilities, bad wiring being one. A faulty ignition switch being another. The ignition switch isn't physically attached to the key tumbler. There is a plunger rod that runs between the key tumbler and the IGN switch. The IGN switch is attached to the top of the steering column behind the dash. When you turn the key, the plunger rod acts remotely to cycle the switch to and fro between the various detents or positions. First thing I suggest is hit up your local parts store and buy a diagnostic starter switch, aka "Loser Switch". If you've never seen one, what they are is either a thumb button or a pistol grip with trigger, plus a two wire lead that has alligator clamps on the terminus end. They're inexpensive and super handy. What it will let you do is crank the starter while under the hood by yourself without even needing to touch the key switch. All you do is connect one gator clamp to the large solenoid terminal and the other gator clamp to the small solenoid terminal labeled 'S'. With your disconnect at the ready, try starter cranking first with the IGN switch OFF. Does the starter run on? If not, try it a couple more times just to be sure. If all is well, you can next rig a temporary jumper wire from the battery POS over to the coil POS terminal. This is going to completely bypass the IGN switch. Caution, don't leave this jumper wire connected until you are ready to attempt an engine start and don't leave it connected after you are done testing. This wire will be your kill switch if the engine does fire up and run. Yank the wire and the running engine will stop.
Ok ill buy that switch and do that next, and I'm not really worried about killing it because there's no fuel in the tank so it's just going to be running off a shot glass of gas or a starter fluid but I still will put a kill switch on it because you can never be too safe and I'll look at wiring see if there's anything that a rat could have chewed up and I'll probably look at the ignition switch and see if there's anything obvious like wear and tear
 
I should add that when you do the first test with the loser switch, if the starter keeps going when you let off the trigger, that means the solenoid is bad. Not the whole starter motor. Just the solenoid piece where the wire connections are made. What that test does is bypass your ignition switch and ALL potentially sketchy wiring between there and the solenoid, just as if you had the starter sitting out on the ground and you were testing it with jumper cables hooked to a battery to see if it spins. There's really not a whole lot of wires involved in making the starter crank or making the coil produce spark. It's pretty basic and minimal.
 
I should add that when you do the first test with the loser switch, if the starter keeps going when you let off the trigger, that means the solenoid is bad. Not the whole starter motor. Just the solenoid piece where the wire connections are made. What that test does is bypass your ignition switch and ALL potentially sketchy wiring between there and the solenoid, just as if you had the starter sitting out on the ground and you were testing it with jumper cables hooked to a battery to see if it spins. There's really not a whole lot of wires involved in making the starter crank or making the coil produce spark. It's pretty basic and minimal.
Well I have excellent news, I got the loser switch and everything works normally so it's definitely the ignition switch and I also got it to kick on finally so I'm going to inspect the tank with a endoscope to make sure it's fine. So thank you for your insight, I wish I could thank you in person and buy you a pack of beer and lunch but anyway thank you so much for giving me alot of knowledge
 
Great! Glad to have helped. When you replace that IGN switch, you need to get the right one to match the column, either tilt or non-tilt. They're not interchangeable. If the tank is nasty, you can always rig a clean boat tank or similar just to provide a temporary, fresh fuel supply.
 
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