new with IH
- Thread starter AAAfaulk
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Scoutboy74
Moderator
Welcome to the forum! What you're describing is quite commonplace with these vehicles after a million years of previous owner use and abuse. The electrical systems on 1970's vintage IH light line vehicles is not all that different from what was found on similar vintage GM light trucks. The major difference being the way the circuits were identified. In fact a number of the original components on these IH vehicles were sourced from delco-remy and were similar if not identical to what you'd find on a say a '73 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup. This includes the steering columns, alternator, and starter motor just to name a few.
Now this 350 engine, is it carbed now or is it a later version from the 80's with electronic fuel injection (efi)? What are your future plans for this rig? Are you wanting to take it back to original, or just make it a dependable driver with existing equipment for the most part? When you say the wiring is a mess, do you mean ugly aborted splices with redneck terminations and chewed up insulation everywhere or do you mean that it's in good condition, but the runs were never finished? The answers to these questions will help us help you determine the best course of action to pursue. IH Parts America, the light line vendor which makes this tech forum possible, sells universal wiring kits by kwikwire in 8, 14 and I believe 21 circuits if a complete re-wire is necessary. They are a quality, affordable product on par with the better known and more expensive painless or ez kits. The only issue with any of these universal kits when the vehicle is long wheelbase like your t/a, is going to be the length of the wire runs. They May not quite reach the rear fixtures. If it comes to that, you can always call Jeff, the proprietor and ask him about wiring solutions for the longer rigs. He May even chime in on this thread.
The other item that is generally invaluable when it comes to dealing with electrical systems on these rigs is a service manual. Authorized reproductions of which can be purchased from several of the ll vendors including ihon. They aren't cheap, but they do contain a wealth of valuable information for the serious diy binder owner including electrical schematics. Now the fact that you have a non stock engine in place likely means that some of the circuits for the engine and peripheral components May not match what the book says exactly, but it will be pretty close.
Now this 350 engine, is it carbed now or is it a later version from the 80's with electronic fuel injection (efi)? What are your future plans for this rig? Are you wanting to take it back to original, or just make it a dependable driver with existing equipment for the most part? When you say the wiring is a mess, do you mean ugly aborted splices with redneck terminations and chewed up insulation everywhere or do you mean that it's in good condition, but the runs were never finished? The answers to these questions will help us help you determine the best course of action to pursue. IH Parts America, the light line vendor which makes this tech forum possible, sells universal wiring kits by kwikwire in 8, 14 and I believe 21 circuits if a complete re-wire is necessary. They are a quality, affordable product on par with the better known and more expensive painless or ez kits. The only issue with any of these universal kits when the vehicle is long wheelbase like your t/a, is going to be the length of the wire runs. They May not quite reach the rear fixtures. If it comes to that, you can always call Jeff, the proprietor and ask him about wiring solutions for the longer rigs. He May even chime in on this thread.
The other item that is generally invaluable when it comes to dealing with electrical systems on these rigs is a service manual. Authorized reproductions of which can be purchased from several of the ll vendors including ihon. They aren't cheap, but they do contain a wealth of valuable information for the serious diy binder owner including electrical schematics. Now the fact that you have a non stock engine in place likely means that some of the circuits for the engine and peripheral components May not match what the book says exactly, but it will be pretty close.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
If you've got a digital camera snap some pics of the under hood wiring. Based on the information so far, it's difficult to make a judgment on what you're dealing with, but my gut is telling me there's been some jury-rigging going on, which always makes things more difficult for the next owner (you) to sort through. Stuff like that is not dependable and in some cases is downright dangerous.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Welcome to ihon triple a! I've moved your thread to a more appropriate sub-forum.
As scoutboy has advised, thre is no doubt you ave a mess but is fairly easily straightened out if ya don't take the shotgun approach to a re-wire. But we need good, detail pics of the underhood mess to wee what you are dealing with first.
As scoutboy has advised, thre is no doubt you ave a mess but is fairly easily straightened out if ya don't take the shotgun approach to a re-wire. But we need good, detail pics of the underhood mess to wee what you are dealing with first.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
The pics you posted really don't show what we need. We need long shots of the bulkhead connectors, wire runs to peripherals, etc.
Someone has done a nice job in the past of adding a circuit breaker bank with a master breaker feeding a "sub-panel" for circuit distribution. And it appears that the auxiliary circuit breakers are fed from the master and not the sub-panel. That is not part of a dual battery system, but as you describe, these loads (whatever they are) are pulling from that set of breakers and the sub-panel.
We need much more info regarding what those additional circuits are for. Other than being dirty, that electrical mod is fairly well done. No doubt all the terminations May need to be cleaned up in order to minimize voltage drop.
A dual battery setup can be accomplished in several ways, simple to complex. But again we need pics of all components and establishing shots in order to be able to analyze what's going on here.
The entire charging system needs to be tested and diagnosed for functionality. Starting with condition of the battery and connections/cabling. Is the alternator functioning? At the minimum you need to use a dvom and do some charging system testing. Once you have determined if the charging system is functional, then ya test for parasitic load when the engine is not running...that would be current draws from accessories. And...the oem alternator being a delcotron 10si, that in itself can allow battery draw if the rectifier section is partially failed.
If you will take the time to read through all threads in the electrical tech sub-forum, you will be able to determine how and what needs to be done.
Someone has done a nice job in the past of adding a circuit breaker bank with a master breaker feeding a "sub-panel" for circuit distribution. And it appears that the auxiliary circuit breakers are fed from the master and not the sub-panel. That is not part of a dual battery system, but as you describe, these loads (whatever they are) are pulling from that set of breakers and the sub-panel.
We need much more info regarding what those additional circuits are for. Other than being dirty, that electrical mod is fairly well done. No doubt all the terminations May need to be cleaned up in order to minimize voltage drop.
A dual battery setup can be accomplished in several ways, simple to complex. But again we need pics of all components and establishing shots in order to be able to analyze what's going on here.
The entire charging system needs to be tested and diagnosed for functionality. Starting with condition of the battery and connections/cabling. Is the alternator functioning? At the minimum you need to use a dvom and do some charging system testing. Once you have determined if the charging system is functional, then ya test for parasitic load when the engine is not running...that would be current draws from accessories. And...the oem alternator being a delcotron 10si, that in itself can allow battery draw if the rectifier section is partially failed.
If you will take the time to read through all threads in the electrical tech sub-forum, you will be able to determine how and what needs to be done.