new 392 blows steam out exhaust

My new 392 blows steam out the exhaust and coolant out the radiator. I'm hoping its the head gasket, any thoughts? Its a ic, the block was decked and the head shaved to bring compression up. Machinist says it was thouroughly magnafluxed and checked for cracks. Ran great though, no obvious skip.
 
I'd say without inspecting my self that yes the hg's are suspect. But could also be a crack.

Are the heads known to be ic one's? Doubt you would get it full of coolant if they were not but have to ask.
 
I believe they are, I bought the core and disassembled it myself. It was a stock bore engine. I paid to have block and heads magnafluxed and inspected. I would think that a crack large enough to cause such a quick problem would be obvious.
 
How's your motor oil looking after that run? Kinda choc-o-late? Sounds like you'll be pulling the intake off at least, if not one or both heads. Be sure to upload pics along the way.
 
Update: oil looks good, but now it won't turn over; guessing one or more cylinders have filled with coolant. Probobly going to take the engine back out. I made the mistake of studding the headers and I don't think they will come off of the drivers side. I thought this would be fun...
 
Dissassembled: passenger side head gasket. Bolts didn't seem tight, guess I made a mistake. Thanks for all the help. I've been advised to use copprcoat on the new ones, any thoughts?

Also, what do people do with the dipstick with headers? My current solution is very flawed.
 
Are they steel or composite? Iirc the composites specify a dry application. Proper bolt torque in correct sequence will activate the built in sealing feature.

Fab a new mounting tab to the dipstick that will allow for better routing and alignment with a header bolt.
 
dissassembled: passenger side head gasket. Bolts didn't seem tight, guess I made a mistake. Thanks for all the help. I've been advised to use copprcoat on the new ones, any thoughts?

Whoa, copper coat only gets used on the steel shim hg's. If you use it on the more common composite gaskets that you would find in an 392 ic gasket kit and they will surely fail. The new gaskets, head and deck surfaces need to be absolutely clean.
Free from any thing but clean metal. Follow the cleaning with a good wipe down with brake cleaner or carb cleaner.

Find a good tap (preferably a chasing tap) and run it in to each head bolt hole to the bottom. One by one blast each chased head bolt hole with brake cleaner and quickly follow with compressed air. This assures the loosened debris is removed. Warning wear safety glasses. The brake clean really stings. (don't ask how I know) :icon_xd:

bolts get anti seize on first 10 threads and the washer and under the bolt head.

If you don't already have one buy a good torque wrench (not harbor freight) torque the bolts as detailed in the manual.
 
Ok, update. Engine was assembled and runs well now. It doesn't overheat but the temp does run a bit higher that I remeber the old 304. I changed the thermostat to a correct IH, 180 degree, but it runs about half way on the stock gauge. Any thoughts?
 
The stock meters are not very reliable.
The only way to know for sure is to install a quality gauge. Mechanical type gauges are cheaper but a pita because you need to run the copper capillary tube through the fire wall. I like a good quality electric like stewart warner or smiler.
 
The entire horizontal line between l & h represents varying degrees of normal operating temperature on a properly functioning stock gauge ranging from approximately 160 to 200 degrees with dead square in the middle as optimum. As rk alluded to, the stock IH gauges were only designed to give a broad generalization of whether things are normal or not. They were never intended to be accurate system measuring devices. I've also noticed that the ic 392 I swapped into my '74 sii does run a tad warmer than the 345 it replaced, but certainly well within what is considered normal operating range. The other thing I've noticed is that the 392 creates what I perceive to be considerably more residual under hood heat, which is magnified by the tighter engine bay and smaller heat exchange capacity of an sii when compared with a f/s pick-all. This is likely one of the main reasons why the propeller heads at ihc opted not to offer that power plant in the sii platform even though the external dimensions are identical between it and the 345.

If you would have posted up about which thermostat set point to use for your engine, I think you would have received the most votes for the rs-370 in 195 degree flavor. Don't panic about the 180. It will work alright for you, but down the road you May want to bump it up to the 195.

You need to invest in a low dollar infrared thermometer. They are an invaluable tool for inspecting and diagnosing cooling system function issues. By taking measurements at various points along the coolant path, you will see quite a range of temperatures which is quite normal for the most part.
 
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I can't be sure at this point that it's not a 195. Here's a picture of the gauge after driving about 12 miles in 95 degrees. Well I guess if anyone has any experience uploading photos from an iphone.
 
Pic didn't load. No matter. Us seeing your factory gauge of unknown accuracy isn't of much value anyway. An after market mechanical gauge or an ir thermo as previously mentioned are the only means of accurately measuring your coolant temperature. You can then compare those readings with what the factory gauge is displaying to determine its accuracy.
 
temp.jpghere's the photo
 
Once warmed up it never really moved though. Also I have used a simple blade type terminal on the harness as I didn't have the correct terminal. It seems to fit ok.
 
I know stock gauges can read differently in different vehicles...

And, my IH experience is limited to one IH...

But, that gauge is reading high (hot) compared to my 392 -- which normally reads at about the 1/3 point... (180 thermostat).

The only time my 392 read that high was when the thermostat was not working.

I think you need to get an infrared thermometer (sears / harbor frieght?) and check the temps on the engine -- as someone else recommended.

Make sure that the gauge is correct - for that gauge.
 
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