Need help identifying this carb

[Scoutboy74]

Okay, we'll hold off on jumping to any panicky conclusions for now. So were you running it with the choke plate closed or open? If it runs Rich with the choke completely open, those fancy new plugs are going to get fuel-fouled in short order. Then there's the likely damage to the transmission from driving with an improper linkage as we discussed earlier. I wouldn't drive this thing any more than is absolutely necessary if possible. I know you said its your only wheels, so I understand that makes it tough. You'll have to weigh the potential damage factor against your immediate transportation needs and use your best judgement. If you must drive it, I'd get that oil and filter changed pdq. Dark color means at the least it is very dirty. For filter choice, I recommend wix, hastings, baldwin, purolator, and partsmaster(low $ wix clone). Don't use fram oil filters. For oil choice in your cold climate, I'd run a 15w45 or 10w40. 10w30 is too thin. Oil capacity is about 6 quarts to the full Mark with a filter change. All Scout II's with v8 engines should run one additional quart above the full Mark or @7qts. Search for yourself or ask a parts monkey for either stp or rislone brand oil treatment which contains zddp additive. Make sure those four letters are printed somewhere on the bottle(s). You can substitute one quart of that for one quart of motor oil. Our old, flat tappet engines need that stuff. Commercial oils used to contain it in sufficient quantity, but no longer. Thanks green movement and greedy politicians.

 

[doomwizard]

Yeah the choke plate was completely open. Does that mean my trans is totally f'd or can it be fixed or what?

 

[doomwizard]

I have some of the zddp stuff. I have another older car that I'm working on too. If I need a new tranny in the Scout it May be cheaper to fix the other car haha. Although driving a '54 Ford in the snow doesn't seem like a fun idea.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Runnin' Rich with an open choke. That sucks, but not totally shocking from that version. Hey, if the trans engages forward and reverse gears good, doesn't slip, and upshifts from 1-2-d, then it ain't f'd over. The thing is, if you keep driving it with the linkage not hooked up right/missing parts, that will f it up. The wild card is, we probably have no way of knowing how many miles the rig has logged with that cobbled linkage. That's the scary part.

 

[doomwizard]

Alright so what do you think if I got the 350 cfm carb and the linkage? Try that and see what happens? I know that the po said that for years it was only used in a marina to move boat trailers around. And then he started driving it recently until I got it from him. So who knows.

 

[Scoutboy74]

So you're into the classics, huh? Well, the '54 does sound pretty cool, but yeah, the Scout would make a much better winter time ride for ya if you could depend on it. If you had the proper linkage parts, I'd have no trouble walking you through how to hook everything up and adjust the rod length properly. That way you could hopefully prevent costly trans repairs. The pieces shouldn't be that hard or expensive to get, but you ain't gonna find 'em at your local crapa, o'ronglies, or vatozoo. They'll have to be used pieces. Unless you've got pick-n-pulls just loaded to the gills with IH's in your area (not bloody likely) you'll have to do some cyber leg work. To start, you ought to post an ad in the classified section of this forum under wanted asking for the complete Scout II auto trans kickdown linkage parts from the carb down to the trans for a 345 engine...the whole shittery. That includes the slotted linkage bar, the bracket, the pivot shaft, the clevis fitting and the rod itself. You can also scan through the recent parts for sale section and look for Scout II parts ads, maybe find somebody who's got the right shit for cheap. Do the same thing over on the binder planet forum. If time is of the essence, if you call IHPA (vendor who owns this forum) during business hours (pst) and told 'em that scoutboy aka trever sent ya and that you need all the pieces to link your carb to your auto trans, I bet they could hook you up. Might be a little spendier than dealing with a private party, but you'd be getting all the correct pieces in the least amount of time. Your call though. We're hear to help you if we can.

 

[Scoutboy74]

alright so what do you think if I got the 350 cfm carb and the linkage? Try that and see what happens? I know that the po said that for years it was only used in a marina to move boat trailers around. And then he started driving it recently until I got it from him. So who knows.

I think if you got a better carb, fixed the linkage, and cleaned up your ugly hose mess, you'd probably be driving up a storm in the thing.

 

[doomwizard]

Cool. Then ill get a carb and get right on finding that linkage.

I guess when I get that ill start a new thread in the transmission tech on how to assemble that like you said before.

Thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it.

 

[doomwizard]

Oh shit also that one plugged hose on the intake manifold? Whats with that? Here's the picture again. Its right below the hose thats plugged on the carb.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Okay, I wanted to look at some IH vacuum routing diagrams before I answered this. I know you were told earlier to use the port on the back of the carb that has the bolt-in-a-hose-chunk to provide vacuum to your crankcase valve in the rear of the tappet cover. That would probably work alright. But, after looking at the factory diagram, I think you should leave that carb port capped, but maybe put a better plug on it. I was able to clearly see in the diagram that the port coming out of the intake with the ugly chunk of deeshwaarsher hose that you're asking about, is the port that you should run a new chunk of hose down to the crankcase valve from.

 

[Scoutboy74]

I have some more thoughts on this deal as you formulate your battle plan. First, that carb you have now isn't junk. It just isn't right for you. It does have value to the right person. All you gotta do is find 'em. They won't come from the binder realm. That's a performance carb that is popular amongst circle track racers with hopped up 4 and 6 bangers who run wide open to make 40 sharp left turns and then shut 'er down until the next heat. Its the cat's meow for that sort of thing. Its used, but you should still get some shekels out of it.
Next thing has me puzzled. You're in illinois right? How in the heck did goober before you sneak this thing past the smog nazis? How are you going to deal with that when registration time comes? Even with all the hose mess fixed up purdy and a shiny 0-7448 list carb on there, you're still light years away from smog compliance, ain'tchya? Or is it somehow exempt from that where you live? That thing wouldn't even pass out here in the wild west. I'm real curious about this.

 

[doomwizard]

I have some more thoughts on this deal as you formulate your battle plan. First, that carb you have now isn't junk. It just isn't right for you. It does have value to the right person. All you gotta do is find 'em. They won't come from the binder realm. That's a performance carb that is popular amongst circle track racers with hopped up 4 and 6 bangers who run wide open to make 40 sharp left turns and then shut 'er down until the next heat. Its the cat's meow for that sort of thing. Its used, but you should still get some shekels out of it.
Next thing has me puzzled. You're in illinois right? How in the heck did goober before you sneak this thing past the smog nazis? How are you going to deal with that when registration time comes? Even with all the hose mess fixed up purdy and a shiny 0-7448 list carb on there, you're still light years away from smog compliance, ain'tchya? Or is it somehow exempt from that where you live? That thing wouldn't even pass out here in the wild west. I'm real curious about this.

Yeah I dunno. We don't have smog tests out here, but we have yearly emissions testing. I'm not sure if it'll pass next year or not haha. I guess I'll find out when the time comes. I heard something about vehicles over 30 years old being exempt from emissions testing but im not sure if that's true or not. I'm curious about it too. I tried looking it up online but the dmv out here is...uhh...retarded.

I suppose once I pull that old carb maybe I'll look for a circle track forum or something and see if I can sell it. Good call!

 

[Scoutboy74]

Well here's some info that might be useful for you. It looks like it depends on what county and what zip code in certain counties the vehicle is registered in. As far as exempt vehicles, it looks like in illinois that 1967 and older is the cutoff. So your '54 Ford is golden there. From what I can gather, your Scout could still be subject to the bi-annual emissions testing which looks like it would consist of a tailpipe sniff and gas cap check. As long as them nazis don't need to peek under the hood for a visual inspection, I think you might get away with the aftermarket carb. That's if everything's squared away and in a proper state of tune.

air team - illinois vehicle emission test program

 

[doomwizard]

Alright so I bought a rebuilt 350cfm carb and it came in the mail today. I ran into an issue swapping it out though. There seem to be a couple different hose connections on this new one. I'm wondering what needs to happen here. Do I have to figure out how to swap out the throttle body?

 

[Robert Kenney]

You shouldn't have to change parts. I would install it and witness the vacuum timing on the connections.
The l shaped tube on the metering block will be a timed connection for vacuum advance needing it and the bottom one on the throttle body is a ported vacuum advance connection.
For testing the l tube should begin to suck as the throttle is advanced the other will suck at idle

 

[Bill Bennett]

Haven't seen a Holley 2300 carb with the ported vacuum outlet pointed at the underside of the air filter! Hope that doesn't indicate how the rest of the carb rebuild was done.

 

[doomwizard]

Alright judging by the rest of the truck im not even sure the old carb was hooked up right. The old one didn't even have that vacuum port on the metering block and this rebuilt one does. And the rebuilt one has no ports on the throttle body at all.

Maybe it'll help if I know how its supposed to be connected, which hose goes where and all that. I don't have a lot of experience working on this stuff so I'm a little lost.

Thanks

 

[doomwizard]

Ok guys progress report.

I got the carb installed. I replaced the fridge hoses and re-routed them to where they (hopefully) belong. Now I have these 2 hoses that were hooked to throttle body on the old carb and I'm not sure where to put em. I attached pictures of them and where they connect.

I tried starting the truck and it fired right up, but dies right away. Im assuming thats just the carb needing some adjustment. I can already tell its running a lot smoother than before just in the 30 seconds I had her runnin.

Any help on where those hoses should go would be awesome.

Thanks!

 

[Scoutboy74]

Lookin' guuder man! The item in your first pic is called an exhaust gas recirculation (egr) valve, which was part of your original emissions control system. Most of the other smog components are long gone, so you May as well make it a clean sweep. You can cap it off for now. IHPA makes an egr block-off plate that can be installed in place of that ugly doodad if/when you want to do so. The rear vac port on your carb can be left plugged like you have it. Pic 3 shows the fitting that is normally used to provide a ported vacuum source to the vacuum advance canister on your distributor as shown in pic 4. Connect a vac line from that carb port to the dizz vac advance fitting.

 

[doomwizard]

Perfect! Thats exactly what I needed. Thanks man I really appreciate it.