Rentalman
Active member
Good evening. I hope you all had a great 4th of July celebrating 250 glorious years of freedom! Yesterday I took the Scout out for a 35 mile drive putting it to the summer heat test. According to the speedo app I use, travel time was 1 hour 26 minutes. I live in the Inland Empire in So Cal. The summer time heat is hot. The temps yesterday were 87 to 93 degrees. The route was partial traffic averaging 22 mph for 20 minutes with stop-lights and idling. After that the road opened up to 45 - 60 mph for another 20 miles with fewer stop-lights. I got to my destination, Diamond Valley Lake and drove back home. The rural route again was 45 - 60 mph, then back into stoplight traffic averaging 22 mph. I was about 2 miles from home and I could tell the engine would was starving for fuel. It died twice and restarted each time. I put the TF727 in 2nd gear and got the rest of the way home and parked it in the garage. I used my infra red thermal gun to measure the heat. The manifold was 211 degrees, lower radiator hose into water pump was 180 degrees. I always check my hub heat and they were 130 degrees. I let it sit for a few minutes. When I went to restart it, the solenoid spun but did not engage the flywheel. On the firewall I have a Ford Solenoid. On the second attemp to start, it fired right over. I raised the rpm's slightly and it was not missing a beat. I believe I experienced vapor lock and heat soak. Most of you have helped me along with other issues. If not familiar with my Scout it is a 1974. Balanced and blue printed 345, ported and polished heads, Isky spit duration cam, Stans ceramic coated headers, Holley 0-7448 2300 carb with Pertonics III ignition and coil. Power is sent through a TF727 to a Dana 44 with 4.10 gears. My headers are wraped from the collectors back to avoid heating the deep TF727 oil pan, the exhaust is 2 into 1 going around the tranni pan. I have a stock radiator with OEM fan shroud and 6 metal blade fan with clutch. The hard fuel line into the engine bay is wraped as many of the engine bay wires are wraped in DEI foil heat wrap along with the trani hard lines to the radiator. From the mechanical fuel pump, fuel lines to fuel filter and fuel line to carb they are not wraped along with the hi torque starter. I need to wrap those soon. The exhaust gets routed on the driver side. The fuel line, wiring, vapor line to charcoal canister and axle vent lines are all routed on the passenger side to avoid exhaust heat.
I've researched Youtube and the internet. The common fix people are doing on these vintage vehicles are replacing the fuel filter with is a Wix 33040 three port filter that has 1/4" vapor line.
Would this be the correct fix for the IH345? I would mount the filter so the vent line is vertical between the mechanical fuel pump and carb, make a hardline to follow my fuel line back to the tank. I could eighter add a brass T into one of the 5/16" liquid/vapor separator lines that feed back into the fuel tank or I could tap into the 1/2" vent hose line that comes off the CPT fuel fill pipe that goes into the fuel tank. Sorry for being long winded. As usual I appreciate all of your help.
I've researched Youtube and the internet. The common fix people are doing on these vintage vehicles are replacing the fuel filter with is a Wix 33040 three port filter that has 1/4" vapor line.
Would this be the correct fix for the IH345? I would mount the filter so the vent line is vertical between the mechanical fuel pump and carb, make a hardline to follow my fuel line back to the tank. I could eighter add a brass T into one of the 5/16" liquid/vapor separator lines that feed back into the fuel tank or I could tap into the 1/2" vent hose line that comes off the CPT fuel fill pipe that goes into the fuel tank. Sorry for being long winded. As usual I appreciate all of your help.
