Need a bit of help getting this thing firing

[beastud]

It seems like she is running ok but the idle is a little high @ around 800 rpm. The strange thing is that the timing is around 40 degrees retarded. I don't know how it could run this well with the timing that far off, but it seems to get worse when it is adjusted. Not sure how it will perform under load because we are still running the hot wire setup.

Now to the real question. The ignition wire going to the coil (by16) cennects to an orange wire that goes to the ignition module on the steering column. This orange wire was competely fried. Could this be an indication of another problem, like a bad module? I still don't see any resistance wire as it was described before so I am assuming I will need the ballast resistor and run the wiring as shown by the last .pdf sent by michael (thanks!)

bottom line should this issue be investigated further or just replace the wire and go for the long awaited test drive?

 

[pushin_345]

Dont mean to hijack but need simular help I have a 79 sii stock with a elect. Ignition that went bad (prestolite).I put a Holley points dizzy in to get running. I got it running but timing is jumping (need rebuilt dizzy). When pulled the Holley out to put the presto back in with new control mod I notice the points contact was blueish like it was getting hot. Is this due to no ballest rester or wire? I put the presto back in set tdc to number 8 cyl. With the correct firing order im getting spark but not sure if it is strong enough to start. I have no problem with running the Holley with points if I cant get the presto to work. The control mod is new in the prestolite. Please help!!! Jason

 

[Michael Mayben]

The points are frying due to an "overcurrent" condition.

Primary current is controlled by dwell, coil primary resistance value, and voltage supplied to the coil positive terminal when the engine is running.

"blue" points after about thirty minutes of run time tells me from much experience in actually measuring primary current, that you will see in excess of 6.0 amps at idle. After about an hour of that, the insulated point contact will turn red hot and literally fold back on itself.

This is why either a resistor wire of 1.8ohm value, or a corresponding ballast resistor must be used in a breaker point setup on these engines. And...the ignition coil must be of the correct primary resistance value.

I've written about this extensively here in this sub-forum in several threads.

 

[pushin_345]

the points are frying due to an "overcurrent" condition.

Primary current is controlled by dwell, coil primary resistance value, and voltage supplied to the coil positive terminal when the engine is running.

"blue" points after about thirty minutes of run time tells me from much experience in actually measuring primary current, that you will see in excess of 6.0 amps at idle. After about an hour of that, the insulated point contact will turn red hot and literally fold back on itself.

This is why either a resistor wire of 1.8ohm value, or a corresponding ballast resistor must be used in a breaker point setup on these engines. And...the ignition coil must be of the correct primary resistance value.

I've written about this extensively here in this sub-forum in several threads.

its alive!!! I dump the points. Put the prestolite back in and retimed it. Just needed a little more gas to start it but it fired. Checked the timing and the timing Mark is nice and steady. Runs grrrrreat. Now I can drive the heck out of it once the rain stops. Lol (no top) thanks for all the help.