Mocha Mike's Scout 80
- Thread starter Mochamike
- Start date
Mochamike
Member
The ram above was a 2" version.
I have a new stock pump (80 Chevy 1 ton truck), as well as a new spare.
Even though I ported the pump, it didn't have enough volume/flow to make the ram move fast enough.
Rather than spend lots of $$ on bigger pump (since I already have 2 brand new pump), I decided to get a new/smaller ram (1.5").
I have a new stock pump (80 Chevy 1 ton truck), as well as a new spare.
Even though I ported the pump, it didn't have enough volume/flow to make the ram move fast enough.
Rather than spend lots of $$ on bigger pump (since I already have 2 brand new pump), I decided to get a new/smaller ram (1.5").
Mochamike
Member
I recently noticed that when driving on the street that my dash/front body was vibrating a bit more than the cab.
At first I thought it was the front body mounts.
I upgraded/reinforced them but it didn't help much.
Further investigation revealed that the inner fender wells/where the fender meets the floor/next your feet, just in from of the door rockers was badly worn.
There were large cracks/rust holes.
I had cut out a section on the ps & weld in a new section, along with some angle iron & support pieces.
Ds is the same, only I covered the inside with an identical piece without removing the section.
(the round hole/patch is old from a few years ago.. Po put speakers in there).
At first I thought it was the front body mounts.
I upgraded/reinforced them but it didn't help much.
Further investigation revealed that the inner fender wells/where the fender meets the floor/next your feet, just in from of the door rockers was badly worn.
There were large cracks/rust holes.
I had cut out a section on the ps & weld in a new section, along with some angle iron & support pieces.
Ds is the same, only I covered the inside with an identical piece without removing the section.
(the round hole/patch is old from a few years ago.. Po put speakers in there).
mountainguyed67
Banned
How did the rock come to be between the bumper,fender and tire? 
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Holy wheel stand batman! You owe whoever snapped that pic elevendybillion dollars. Save yourself a tenspot for a clean pair undershorts!
scoutdude80
Moderator
Did you go with cliff and the guys?
Mochamike
Member
No, I went with the club I'm in.... Webilt.
Scout-It-Out
Member
Great write up on your Scout! After seeing you on the trail it was weird to see the stock 80 on the first page of this thread! It's come a long way!
I was wondering about your d60s. Do you know what year, make of truck they came off of? I've started looking at 60s and there seem to be a lot of them. Thanks!
I enjoyed the ride in your Scout too! That was fun!
I was wondering about your d60s. Do you know what year, make of truck they came off of? I've started looking at 60s and there seem to be a lot of them. Thanks!
I enjoyed the ride in your Scout too! That was fun!
Mochamike
Member
The front is from a 1984 Chevy & the rear is off a 1999 Ford van.
Both have been modified a bit...
Front: is Ford knuckles out (from a 1979 f350) because I traded center sections with a guy who needed a ds drop pumkin.
The rear is a d60u (smooth bottom). It came with disc brakes, an open carrier & 32 spline shafts. The spindles are larger than regular d60s, so no machining was needed to fit 35 spline shafts (& a spool). The rear is offset a bit to the ps.
You/rig did well this past week.
Your axles are quite capable for your rig at this point in time, I wouldn't worry about d60s.. They are expensive.
Here are my suggestions:
gearing: do the tcase to start. If you still want to go lower, then do the axles. You might find that after you've been wheeling a while, that you May want to upgrade a locker as well.
Armor: rock sliders, bumpers, etc. Etc. A winch eventually as well. Oh, yeah a roll cage!
Suspension, do a SOA! If you can't afford the $$$ for the steering, SOA rear & some good 4" springs up front could be a temporary fix (don't forget you will need new brake lines, shocks, & eventually drive shafts).
All the things above I mention can be done in phases, which is important... Otherwise your rig will be on jack-stands for 1-2 years.
I would do them in this order: lift, armor, gearing.
Scout-It-Out
Member
Thank you! I really appreciate your advice!
I am looking at gears for my t-case. That will be my next big purchase. Since I have a welder I can do the rock sliders for not much money. I’m working on some plans for those now. I’m working on fixing the starting issue too. Thanks again for being patient with me on the trail! I had a great time!
I am looking at gears for my t-case. That will be my next big purchase. Since I have a welder I can do the rock sliders for not much money. I’m working on some plans for those now. I’m working on fixing the starting issue too. Thanks again for being patient with me on the trail! I had a great time!
Scout-It-Out
Member
I was curious about your doubler. How does the 241 part get lubricated? Also did you get the intermediate shaft from d&d machine? Cool pictures! Thanks for posting!
Tahoedonner
Member
I effin love this thing.
Mochamike
Member
I'm not sure how I missed these posts.
The doubler/241 section is 1/2-3/4 full of fluid (bath style), so it lubricates everything that way.
It's been a while, so I thought I'd update this a bit.
In October I bent a front spring on fordyce (rock hit front shackle).
The rear also started to sag.
This is the 2nd or 3rd time this has happened. (sagging & bent springs each).
I decided to ditch the yj leaf springs for hd/longer springs.
I installed f150/100 springs in the rear in January, & I should be finishing the front within the week.
I'm also on planning on installing front bump stops for the shackles (just in case).
These springs are 12" longer, so it should give me at least 4-5" more of flex.
I will post pix once I finish.
I also purchased some aluminum rock rings to try & keep me from destroying the h2 rims...
I just need to find someone with a tig to weld them on.