Michael's 62 Scout Restoration Thread 2

[Michael Mayben]

Looks like I calc'd the wrong position for the future turbo oil return port!

For reference, what was the oil pressure numbers when ya ran it off the drill motor, vs. Oil pressure once it started?

 

[Michael Dimock]

55-58 lbs off of the drill motor and 65-70 lbs at fast idle cold. Once warm it is about 60 lbs hot and I don't know/remember what the idle is, but I know it was about 35-40 lbs when run for about 10 minutes at idle. But I know that the oil hasn't fully gotten up to operational temp at that point yet. I'm running rotella 10w/40 synthetic blend oil. Once I get the brakes to back off, I will drive it more to see how the engine behaves and what the official oil pressure #'s are.

 

[Michael Dimock]

A couple more pics to add. I had to move the heater box, cut some of it off, and notch the radiator cross-member to make it fit... Also, this being a ic motor, my v8 vacuum fuel pump that would power the wipers didn't fit as the coolant hose was too low... So, I had a brand new one that I hadn't used for a v8 that I had to install instead. Idk how well the wipers are going to work now.... Still have to work on the steering a little more, as the power steering box needs to get moved back a smidge. I also need to pick up a belt from napa to run the pump as well as a new speedometer cable. That should do it for the new parts for a while! new engine, brakes, axles, and other small parts have taken their toll on my wallet!

The attached video is of the engine running, and sorry about the crappy focus job my camera did on my oil gauge as it was reading 58 lbs after 10 minutes of running at a fast idle.

 

[RobertC]

Nice work, michael.

I have an observation to make -- which May be wrong because of "camera perspective / distortion"... I have looked at the pictures a few times...

It appears to me that there is a "mis-alignment" of the belt pulleys -- the altenator pulley (belt groove) appears to be slightly ahead ("forward") of the pulley (belt groove) on the water pump.

I would think this would cause rather rapid wear of the fan belt (and possibly other problems?).

I recall a couple posts about this because of the various combinations of pulleys, spacers and brackets used on IH engine thru the years. I think that belts are supposed to be run in the same "parallel plane" (of course, a corvair engine "violates" this "rule").

 

[Michael Dimock]

Yeah, I was aware of this fact as the alternator is a bit off compared to my original one.... With the original pulleys it was too far behind them and the new pulleys put it a smidgen in front of them.... It is actually closer than what it was before, but it is a bit of a problem. I have already used my 2 spacers to bump the power steering pulley forward, so I'm just going to let it be. If the belt wears out unusually fast, then I guess I will have to fix it...

 

[Michael Mayben]

yeah, I was aware of this fact as the alternator is a bit off compared to my original one.... With the original pulleys it was too far behind them and the new pulleys put it a smidgen in front of them.... It is actually closer than what it was before, but it is a bit of a problem. I have already used my 2 spacers to bump the power steering pulley forward, so I'm just going to let it be. If the belt wears out unusually fast, then I guess I will have to fix it...

That alternator alignment issue is not uncommon on these motors, the alternator mount is just not well engineered to begin with and is not rigid enough for the belt positioning and length of the run.

It's pretty simple with some mount grinding/relieving and then proper shimming of the 10si to fix this. Because the pivot hole on the 10si case is somewhat oversize to begin with, and then after 30+ years of being run on various other engines the reman 10si case holes are wallowed out, the situation becomes worse.

 

[Michael Dimock]

With numerous little things causing problems, some of them my idiocy and forgetfulness, I am real close to being drivable. After getting the dwell set, engine timed close to what is right, and carburetor set up again, I am running smooth. I welded a nut onto the top of the clutch fork on the 4 spd to use as my spring mounting point and adjusted the pedal to allow the mc piston to fully retract. Now I have a throwout bearing that is happy. I also did a real rough job of sanding the doors and rattle canning them black. They look a lot better then the green/black collage they were before. Put the doors and top back on, and got the interior all put back together. Also had to move the power steering box forward as well as the column. All I have left now is the brakes! I can stop just fine, but my disc brake front is giving me a lot of grief..... The e-brake cables need cut off/rewelded so the brackets are right for the SOA. Getting closer one hour at a time....

 

[Michael Dimock]

I have solved my front brake problems finally. My caliper brackets were bent in causing the inner pad to rub the rotor regardless of the caliper piston.... a quick meeting with the sledge solved that problem. It is nice to finally succeed!

 

[Michael Dimock]

Spent a little time on the Scout this weekend and managed to change out my leaking/wobbling water pump with another one. After cleaning the gasket surfaces I had 4 grains of sand/dirt fall and get on the gasket. After I installed it and started it up, coolant started streaming out.... So I drained the coolant again and discovered those little buggers and brushed them off. For insurance I smeared some teflon thread sealant on the water pump housing mating surface and slapped it back together. No leaks anymore! I have minor oil weapage from the oil pan and trans/transfercase. It's nice to only have a couple drops of oil on the floor instead of a bizillion! took the rear brakes apart and swapped out ebrake cables. Discovered a leaking oil seal on the drivers side that will need to be replaced as well as a missing brake adjuster cable. Ended up putting the ebrake cables on the wrong side, so I will have to take the brakes apart again.... cut off and rewelded the ebrake cable brackets to compensate for the SOA, so now they actually can have a chance to work. Upon taking it for a drive I had 2 cases of death wobble occur, so some alignment work is in order. Engine had some trouble starting up after sitting for 2 weeks, as I got a case of swine flu last week and was down for the count.... It sucked. Once I got it running, the engine ticked for about 2 minutes and then quieted down. This thing runs like a top, except I am having some fuel delivery issues. The fuel pump isn't able to fill up the fuel filter behind it and on high rpm accelerations I seem to run out of juice. It will accelerate for a while and then just barely maintain that rpm until I back off. The fuel pump was new, but ran on the orange truck initially (could have sucked in debris from the fuel lines) so idk on the condition. The fuel filters at the fuel selector switch are probably the culprit and are in need of replacement anyhow. If that doesn't cure it, then I will check the fuel lines to see if there are any leaks. Here are some pics of my highsteer and front axle.

 

[Drew Merrick]

I like how the tie rod magically appears in the second and third photos.

Nice job michael, can't wait to see that thing put through it's paces.

 

[Michael Dimock]

I am still having a little bit of trouble with the caliper brackets, so I will have to do some more work on them. On a positive note, I measured my toe in and it came to a whopping 1" no wonder I was having some problems. Me and pops got it to 1/8" and drove it a little ways. Didn't get any wobbles, but it was only a couple miles. I also got my power steering hooked up finally and all I can say is, damn it is nice! took it up some gravel roads and putted around for 20 mins in 4lo and didn't have any front driveline issues. I had to do some grinding to the yokes so the grease fittings would clear. Will hopefully get the rear brakes finished, ebrake cables swapped again, and front caliper brakes squared up so my brakes will be all done. My engine seems to have a hard time starting after sitting for a week.... And it has me slightly worried. It ticks for about 2 mins and then goes away. Obviously, the lifters have ample time to bleed down. All in all it was a good small work session.

 

[brained]

Were you an inch in or an inch out?

 

[Michael Dimock]

On a positive note, I measured my toe in and it came to a whopping 1"

1" in. I need to do some more driving at this point to see if I have resolved the issue, as the couple highway miles that I traversed weren't enough to rule the death wobble out...

 

[lonnie]

Really enjoyed reading your build.

hugh Amount of work

hugh Amount of time

and you must be hughly Proud.

 

[Michael Dimock]

Well damn! If you just read all of that babble, then props man! if I got a dollar for every hour that I have spent on this thing, then I might break even..... I can't wait to really drive it, as a couple hours here and a couple there is really disappointing to say the least. I just want to bust out a full work day on it.... I'm so close to being able to drive it, that it is driving me nuts! Thanks for the compliments lonnie!

 

[Michael Dimock]

I wish that something would go right the first time, or even the second time every once in a while.... I'm in the middle of a fuel delivery issue. At this point I'm not getting enough fuel, it barely has enough to keep the engine running and the clear plastic fuel filter is close to always empty. I just put a brand new fuel pump in, and there is still no change. All the fuel filters down stream are new, I ran the pump directly off of a gas can and still no change! at this point I really have about 2 options left:

1. The new steel hardline that is coming off of the pump is obstructed.

2. The fuel pump eccentric sheared the key/came loose/ something else....

When I pulled the old pump out, I bumped the shaft on my motor mount and had fuel spray all over me, so I know the old one was good.

I had to push the new fuel pump up to bolt it on, so I know that the fuel pump eccentric is still on. Any thoughts on this?

Moving on to some better news, I got new shocks in and began to weld on some shock mounts that I got from Jeff, but ran out of wire! they are tacked in place for now.

 

[Major Screwup]

I wish that something would go right the first time, or even the second time every once in a while.... I'm in the middle of a fuel delivery issue. At this point I'm not getting enough fuel, it barely has enough to keep the engine running and the clear plastic fuel filter is close to always empty. I just put a brand new fuel pump in, and there is still no change. All the fuel filters down stream are new, I ran the pump directly off of a gas can and still no change! at this point I really have about 2 options left:

1. The new steel hardline that is coming off of the pump is obstructed.

2. The fuel pump eccentric sheared the key/came loose/ something else....

When I pulled the old pump out, I bumped the shaft on my motor mount and had fuel spray all over me, so I know the old one was good.

I had to push the new fuel pump up to bolt it on, so I know that the fuel pump eccentric is still on. Any thoughts on this?

Moving on to some better news, I got new shocks in and began to weld on some shock mounts that I got from Jeff, but ran out of wire! they are tacked in place for now.

Welcome to Scout fixin...

Someday (when you have plenty of time) ask me about the girl Scout efi fuel delivery/distributer/camshaft/timing/backfiring problems. Took two years to figure that out!

Yer doing fine! But maybe you overlooked *air leak* in your list of potential problems

 

[Michael Mayben]

What happened to that fuel pressure regulator and gauge setup you installed for the 5200 carb?? With the motor cranking over that setup should tell ya everything ya need to know about fuel delivery.

Mount the pressure gauge directly to the fuel pump outlet and crank the motor over...if no pressure or little pressure, then either the pump has blocked internally (very common on a new pump with trashy tanks), possibly from the breakdown of any internal tank sealer that you might have applied. Or...there is blockage upstream of the pump, tanks are not venting, tank selector valve is blocked, etc.

Standard spec for the fuel pump is 5.5psi pressure at cranking speed with a delivery volume of one pint in 20 seconds.

If the pump eccentric was not engaged on the end of the cam woodruff key protrusion, it would not have mounted squarely against the cam gear. And if the pump cam has now slipped, no doubt the retaining bolt has also come loose.

 

[Michael Dimock]

Got some stuff done lately that pertained to the Scout. Am attempting to balance the 35's by using air soft bb's. Heard about it and came across it on pirate so wtf, I am going to try it. I really can't do much in the way of harm to the unbalanced tires... found some weight values that ranged from 5-8 oz so I measured out a hair over 6. Broke the bead on all of them with the highlift and poured them in. One of course didn't seal around the bead, so I'll have to mess with it again... we will see how it works out once I start to drive it again.