Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Yeah, I was a little wondering about that. The perches sit pretty high off of the axles therefore making my ubolts on the slightly short side. It's on my list of to do's... 
Michael's 62 Scout Restoration Thread 2
- Thread starter Michael Dimock
- Start date
Major Screwup
Member
That's a weight saving technique, all the big race teams are doing it
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
that's a weight saving technique, all the big race teams are doing it
yeah, right! Somehow I doubt my Scout could go fast enough to qualify for anything! Okay maybe the slow moving vehicle turnout!
weight savings has been shit canned long ago. Afterall doesn't IH stand for it's heavy!
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Spent the weekend at binder u after picking up my block, crank, flywheel, pistons and rods, and bearings from southworth engine rebuilders in eugene. Man they do some nice work! Will post up pics later when I get a chance... Am waiting on the cam at this point, but I still have a little cleaning up to do, as well as paint. The crank, pistons, cam bearings, and head are on at this point. Ran out of paint stripper, so I wasn't able to get my intake manifold and valve cover down to bare metal. Too many coats of paint has made them look like shiz! Will probably take next week off of work to get the Scout roadworthy before school starts. 
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Looks real good michael! gona be sweet.
Any power adders? Mm has a few.
gona be sweet.Any power adders? Mm has a few.
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
260 grind performance cam, Holley 5200 w/ k&n, and a turbo from a sd33t will be added in the near future. the turbo will be my brainstorming project, as I will need to do a lot of research before I can get it into operation. Also, I shimmed the oil pump .060 to bump up the oil pressure.
the turbo will be my brainstorming project, as I will need to do a lot of research before I can get it into operation. Also, I shimmed the oil pump .060 to bump up the oil pressure.
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Well, mm and I were talking about the stock pressure versus higher pressure. As long as the motors were maintained and ran regularly, they would last over 300,000 miles. So obviously the stock pressure was sufficent when everything was clean. However, lots of internationals succumbed to lack of use and maintenace. This + the stock pump pressure could not sufficiently lubricate the motor and that is where most of our problems lie now. For my motor, this will not be the case, as it is sterile and will be fully refreshed. I was told to shim the relief valve .120 on the oil pump, so I split the differences between "high performance" and stock by shimming it .060. I also have to take into account the turbo will be requiring oil from one of the ports on the drivers side of the block. This will lower my oil pressure that can lubricate the engine internals. It will be interesting to see the oil pressure that my engine produces cold, hot idle, and hot cruising rpm's.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
The .060 shim should equate to 3-5# increase in relative oil pressure. A good idea with your increase in peak rpm from the cam and 5200 carby. Stock the 196 was done at 3900 while your power adders should move it up to 4200-4400.
With the rampent lifter tick situations I regularly hear about even on rebuilt engines that are very carfully rebuilt, the increase in lifter gallie flow is a good thing.
A wise mod imo.
With the rampent lifter tick situations I regularly hear about even on rebuilt engines that are very carfully rebuilt, the increase in lifter gallie flow is a good thing.
A wise mod imo.
Don't think adding a turbo will affect oil pressure -- as long as it is "plumbed" correctly.
Turbo engined corvairs used stock oil pumps... My corvair mechanic (now deceased) loved turbo engines -- had a modified turbo (aftermarket housing / "shimmed" tighter) that got 18 - 20 lbs of boost - with the modified 500cfm 2 bbl Holley he put on it. He "experimented" a lot, but I think he used the stock oil pump most of the time -- I would have to ask his son.
I know he did not have "kind words" for the aftermarket "hi-volume" oil pump (bigger / longer gears) offered to the corvair crowd (used on a stock engine).
Where are you going to run the oil return line from the turbo? Into the pan? Or valve cover?
Turbo engined corvairs used stock oil pumps... My corvair mechanic (now deceased) loved turbo engines -- had a modified turbo (aftermarket housing / "shimmed" tighter) that got 18 - 20 lbs of boost - with the modified 500cfm 2 bbl Holley he put on it. He "experimented" a lot, but I think he used the stock oil pump most of the time -- I would have to ask his son.
I know he did not have "kind words" for the aftermarket "hi-volume" oil pump (bigger / longer gears) offered to the corvair crowd (used on a stock engine).
Where are you going to run the oil return line from the turbo? Into the pan? Or valve cover?
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Shimming the oil pump relief valve and kicking up the oil pressure puts no additional stress on anything! I'm estimating that cold oil pressure will be increased by 10psi at the most, and hot pressure will prolly run around 18>20psi at idle vs. An oem hot idle of 15psi on a fresh motor. This remains to be seen.
Again, you cannot compare oil pressure data on these engine with any other engine, it's only relative to an ihc sv or I-4. The lubrication system on these motors is engineered and is obviously more than adequate for the intended operational use if the engine is properly maintained over it's life-span. These motors are truck/industrial prime movers and capable of operating at full load 24/7 within their design parameters. Oil pressure is not an issue/problem when they are setup correctly and maintained just like any other engine.
We've worked out the best location for the oil feed to the turbo for the future, and also added an oil return port in the timing cover for ease of plumbing once the turbo project gets under way.
The durabond cam bearings went in real nice, the spit hole for the distributor in the #1 bearing aligned much better than we've previously noted. All cam bearing holes were verified and then positively aligned with an appropriate drill bit and finished off with a chamfer cut with the dremel handpiece.
The quality of the flywheel re-surfacing was outstanding, as well as the multiple drillings and metal removal performed for the balancing operation. And the connecting rods did in fact have to be "serviced" as they were out of tolerance when checked by the southworth folks.
The crank hub did not have to be re-drilled for the balance work, but we did install a repair sleeve as it was in bad shape. The rear main seal surface on the re-ground crank had been polished, but we verified that when the fresh seal was installed, it did not ride on the damaged portion of the crank journal.
Michael spent about four hours in just cleaning this "already clean" block...that is the lifeblood and key to success in building an engine...attention to detail.
The crank ended up being re-sized at .0.010"/0.010" and the fresh bores are now 0.030" over. Block head surface was cleaned up with a light cut of 0.010" with no attempt at a zero-deck setup...just enough to remove surface corrosion for a head gasket seal as this is an "ic" 196 core.
Michael also carefully set up a nice welded-type rocker arm assembly, one of the pushrods from the set he had was damaged at the rocker end so it was replaced with an inspected used item.
As the head that came with this pile of parts had been previously machined, we did a "wet test" to verify valve sealing. And the tool marks on the ends of the valve stems indicated that at least someone had paid attention to installed valve height. We'll see once it's running what the valve train noise level is.
The main issue with this block was the very poor quality control regarding the original casting/machining of the lifter chamber sealing surface!!! What a pos! No attempt had been made at finish-machining of this surface, it's "as cast" with big humps in the gasket contact area. It will be a bitch to keep leak-free. How this block got out of the foundry in this condition is a mystery.
Again, you cannot compare oil pressure data on these engine with any other engine, it's only relative to an ihc sv or I-4. The lubrication system on these motors is engineered and is obviously more than adequate for the intended operational use if the engine is properly maintained over it's life-span. These motors are truck/industrial prime movers and capable of operating at full load 24/7 within their design parameters. Oil pressure is not an issue/problem when they are setup correctly and maintained just like any other engine.
We've worked out the best location for the oil feed to the turbo for the future, and also added an oil return port in the timing cover for ease of plumbing once the turbo project gets under way.
The durabond cam bearings went in real nice, the spit hole for the distributor in the #1 bearing aligned much better than we've previously noted. All cam bearing holes were verified and then positively aligned with an appropriate drill bit and finished off with a chamfer cut with the dremel handpiece.
The quality of the flywheel re-surfacing was outstanding, as well as the multiple drillings and metal removal performed for the balancing operation. And the connecting rods did in fact have to be "serviced" as they were out of tolerance when checked by the southworth folks.
The crank hub did not have to be re-drilled for the balance work, but we did install a repair sleeve as it was in bad shape. The rear main seal surface on the re-ground crank had been polished, but we verified that when the fresh seal was installed, it did not ride on the damaged portion of the crank journal.
Michael spent about four hours in just cleaning this "already clean" block...that is the lifeblood and key to success in building an engine...attention to detail.
The crank ended up being re-sized at .0.010"/0.010" and the fresh bores are now 0.030" over. Block head surface was cleaned up with a light cut of 0.010" with no attempt at a zero-deck setup...just enough to remove surface corrosion for a head gasket seal as this is an "ic" 196 core.
Michael also carefully set up a nice welded-type rocker arm assembly, one of the pushrods from the set he had was damaged at the rocker end so it was replaced with an inspected used item.
As the head that came with this pile of parts had been previously machined, we did a "wet test" to verify valve sealing. And the tool marks on the ends of the valve stems indicated that at least someone had paid attention to installed valve height. We'll see once it's running what the valve train noise level is.
The main issue with this block was the very poor quality control regarding the original casting/machining of the lifter chamber sealing surface!!! What a pos! No attempt had been made at finish-machining of this surface, it's "as cast" with big humps in the gasket contact area. It will be a bitch to keep leak-free. How this block got out of the foundry in this condition is a mystery.
For some reason, I thought you were "shimming" the oil pump - not the relief valve.
Yes, michael is doing a lot of work getting it put back together -- too bad the block was not the "optimum" example -- if there is ever such a case...
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Unfortunately, I will have to use some "other" gasket material in order to try and seal the valley pan/ lifter cover. In this case I will use the right stuff from permatex as it seems to be the best out there. I know it is a bitch to get off, as I had done that previously on the lifter cover, but I drove it within a few hours.... It greatly diminished the leaks, but it was still present. This time it will get a good 24 hrs of curing time before it sees hot oil. To get the cover off before, we had to attach a chain to the head and suspend it in the air barely off of the ground. Countless blows from the rubber mallet caused the block, head, and timing cover to seperate.... So, case in point, this stuff really holds shiz together!
hopefully at the end of the build, I will have a leak free motor, but only time will tell.
hopefully at the end of the build, I will have a leak free motor, but only time will tell.
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
Took the week off of work and spent it working on the Scout and getting things done around home before school/the rains start..... I put my engine together, shoved it back into the Scout for hopefully the last time in my life, pre-oiled it, and fired it up. Forgetting to set the points on the new distributor caused a very poor running condition, but I kept it running to break in the cam. After fiddling with the carb, installing my old distributor, and messing with the timing it runs a whole lot better. The engine only seems to leak a little oil from the oil pan so far, which is fairly easy to get to if the need arises to fix it. I'm getting some slight lifter/valvetrain noise, but the more I ran it, the less it became, so I'm hoping that with more use and break in time it will go away.
I ended up shortening some driveshafts to put in the Scout and took it for a drive yesterday with Dad and it didn't have shit for power.... I soon found out why as my front calipers weren't disengaging all the way and causing a bunch of drag. After about 2 miles my brakes were smoking so I decided to pull over... so, my next question is, how do I get the calipers to back off? I adjusted the master cylinder push rod so it isn't pushing on the plunger. If it were drum brakes I wouldn't be asking this, but these new fangled discs have me at a loss. Any help would be appreciated!
for the pics, I insulated the firewall with foil backed butyl rubber first and then a layer of foil backed bubble wrap.
engine getting painted.
More painting.
Nice newly ground performance grind cam!
Steering ujoint welded in, just have to get the belt for the power steering!
I ended up shortening some driveshafts to put in the Scout and took it for a drive yesterday with Dad and it didn't have shit for power.... I soon found out why as my front calipers weren't disengaging all the way and causing a bunch of drag. After about 2 miles my brakes were smoking so I decided to pull over...
so, my next question is, how do I get the calipers to back off? I adjusted the master cylinder push rod so it isn't pushing on the plunger. If it were drum brakes I wouldn't be asking this, but these new fangled discs have me at a loss. Any help would be appreciated!for the pics, I insulated the firewall with foil backed butyl rubber first and then a layer of foil backed bubble wrap.
engine getting painted.
More painting.
Nice newly ground performance grind cam!
Steering ujoint welded in, just have to get the belt for the power steering!
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Michael Dimock
IH Parts America Sales Assoc.
brained
Member
For the pics, I insulated the firewall with foil backed butyl rubber first and then a layer of foil backed bubble wrap.
I was really surprised by the amount of heat that bleeds thru the firewall. That'll be appreciated on a hot day while crawling along slow.