Can u suggest a title of an old book I should read to get me up to speed on using a scope?
Some people have suggested to only get an analyzer that has a gas sniffer. How critical is that for a 66 era car?
Again, thanks for all the info.
marquette engine analyzer
- Thread starter richsbca
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Can u suggest a title of an old book I should read to get me up to speed on using a scope?
Some people have suggested to only get an analyzer that has a gas sniffer. How critical is that for a 66 era car?
Again, thanks for all the info.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
For many years, I taught from a college-level text..."automotive mechanics" (any edition after 1960), by william crouse. I was fortunate to have known mr. Crouse, one of the foremost automotive authorities and automotive engineers of his time. And as a field service engineer, I was assigned to his nephew (who was like a son to him) who was a design engineer for my former employer, a world class manufacturer/supplier of mobile and transport hvac systems, diesel fuel injection, and vehicle electronics. That is my go-to reference for all things automotive-related, I buy copies in used book stores any time I can find 'em and give away as gifts to those that need an education regarding old iron. The first edition of that volume was published in 1946 and updated about every three years as the technology emerged post-wwii.
Another excellent reference I just acquired is the sun electric training text that was used in all their training courses back in the day when they were one of the two leaders in the automotive diagnosis and testing equipment industry (the other was allen testproducts). That would be: "automotive testing and diagnosis, second edition". This one was published in '77 and is considered one of the best "primers" in regards to engine analyzer use, automotive systems theory, and working with emissions systems that were current at that point in time.
I use both of these publications nearly every day ion my work with various vehicles and systems.
Back when the analyzers that you are looking at (and I have in my shop) were current, an exhaust gas analyzer was an "add-on" unit and just coming into vogue due to the need to monitor first and second tier emissions systems which professional mechanics were struggling with due to the lack of adequate training provided by the oem and aftermarket in that regard. Those were the forerunner of today's emissions analyzers (which current design level require to be a five-gas machine). Typical additional cost of a two gas analyzer add-on module was $400>$900 plus the cost of maintenance supplies. That machine you are looking at would have sold to the trade at a price point of around $2300 in 1975 dollars.
The early gas analyzers measured only the air/fuel ratio (an excellent tuning aid for working with all those older high performance stuff!!!). Next came the sniffers which would read co and hc, those are typical of the machine I have which again, I use quite often in dialing in carburetors for performance applications.
A much more modern, infrared "four gas" or "five gas" machine has no use on the older equipment, those are full-bore emissions testing units. They are very expensive to maintain, update the software, and constantly have to "calibrate" using a very expensive compressed gas mixture.
So...is a gas analyzer imperative? Not by a long shot! It's certainly "nice" to have (especially one that actually works!, they can be very much a hassle to keep operational). But the majority of all the work done with an engine analyzer involves looking at ignition and charging system diagnosis, engine tuning, and verification of repairs.
Another excellent reference I just acquired is the sun electric training text that was used in all their training courses back in the day when they were one of the two leaders in the automotive diagnosis and testing equipment industry (the other was allen testproducts). That would be: "automotive testing and diagnosis, second edition". This one was published in '77 and is considered one of the best "primers" in regards to engine analyzer use, automotive systems theory, and working with emissions systems that were current at that point in time.
I use both of these publications nearly every day ion my work with various vehicles and systems.
Back when the analyzers that you are looking at (and I have in my shop) were current, an exhaust gas analyzer was an "add-on" unit and just coming into vogue due to the need to monitor first and second tier emissions systems which professional mechanics were struggling with due to the lack of adequate training provided by the oem and aftermarket in that regard. Those were the forerunner of today's emissions analyzers (which current design level require to be a five-gas machine). Typical additional cost of a two gas analyzer add-on module was $400>$900 plus the cost of maintenance supplies. That machine you are looking at would have sold to the trade at a price point of around $2300 in 1975 dollars.
The early gas analyzers measured only the air/fuel ratio (an excellent tuning aid for working with all those older high performance stuff!!!). Next came the sniffers which would read co and hc, those are typical of the machine I have which again, I use quite often in dialing in carburetors for performance applications.
A much more modern, infrared "four gas" or "five gas" machine has no use on the older equipment, those are full-bore emissions testing units. They are very expensive to maintain, update the software, and constantly have to "calibrate" using a very expensive compressed gas mixture.
So...is a gas analyzer imperative? Not by a long shot! It's certainly "nice" to have (especially one that actually works!, they can be very much a hassle to keep operational). But the majority of all the work done with an engine analyzer involves looking at ignition and charging system diagnosis, engine tuning, and verification of repairs.
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Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I'm anxious to actually see what ya get!
I just got home from picking my wife up from her seattle flight today. She got stuck there last nite when her commuter flights were canceled outta lewiston, id.
But she just put the turkey in the oven and crashed in the recliner, so the important stuff is done!
Turkeeday back atcha!
I just got home from picking my wife up from her seattle flight today. She got stuck there last nite when her commuter flights were canceled outta lewiston, id.
But she just put the turkey in the oven and crashed in the recliner, so the important stuff is done!
Turkeeday back atcha!
I'll start looking for another one.
I'll pick it up this weekend. Is there any tests that I can do when I pick it up to see if it works without hooking it up to my 66. I'm picking it up with my 07 fj cruiser.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Plug it in and turn it on!
It will take awhile for the scope to warm up, but without hooking up the test probes, you should see a blip start crawling across the screen or at least a solid line appear that you can focus and play with. You can't hurt it.
The volt meter and ammeter are just that, they can be used to read any dc source.
Normally, the needles on the analog instruments can be "zero'd" without turning anything on, just adjust the tiny screw at the bottom of the instrument face. Any other calibration/zeroing takes place after hookups are made and the entire unit has warmed up, it's not solid state so it takes quite a bit of time for the instruments to stabilize.
No doubt all the switches are going to have dirty/oxidized contacts internally. So switching everything without starting the unit will help clean 'em, but expect the switches to be somewhat intermittent until the unit has been used some.
It will take awhile for the scope to warm up, but without hooking up the test probes, you should see a blip start crawling across the screen or at least a solid line appear that you can focus and play with. You can't hurt it.
The volt meter and ammeter are just that, they can be used to read any dc source.
Normally, the needles on the analog instruments can be "zero'd" without turning anything on, just adjust the tiny screw at the bottom of the instrument face. Any other calibration/zeroing takes place after hookups are made and the entire unit has warmed up, it's not solid state so it takes quite a bit of time for the instruments to stabilize.
No doubt all the switches are going to have dirty/oxidized contacts internally. So switching everything without starting the unit will help clean 'em, but expect the switches to be somewhat intermittent until the unit has been used some.
Went and looked at the scope today. Unfortunately it was dead on arrival.
not worth taking home even though it was free. Thanks for all ur advise and information. I'll keep looking for one in my area and when I find one I will let you know.Hi! I was searching for marquette info when I saw your post. I have all kinds of marquette stuff. I have price list, set up manuals, and parts. If you are interested in anything let me know via email at gary.kay.owens@gmail.com.
Thanks, gary
Thanks, gary
morrisrfil
New member
Corvair Garage
New member
I recently purchased a Marquette 1000. I have yet to try to use it due to the main power cord and instructions are missing. It did come with the test result papers, a box of advertisement papers and a wall banner. If anyone can help me find the missing cord or the book, I’d greatly appreciate it. The picture of the cord is an example of what I need.
