Loud clicking near Flex Plate

I saw what looks like the counter weights on the wheel itself. I'll just compare the old one with the newer old one when I do the swapout.

I appreciate everyone's help troubleshooting. I'll check back in with an update once it's installed.

Thanks
 
So in my mind I keep trying to figure out what would have caused the flywheel to crack. So I look at the way the transmission is mounted to the vehicle and see these spacers where the lower part of the bell housing connects to the motor. It sure doesn't seem to me like those should be there, but I'm definitely not an expert... I'd appreciate anyone's opinion... I'll try to upload them in my next post, but that didn't work last time, so I will put them under my profile.

I appreciate the help.
 
Both pictures are looking at the housing from the driver's side. It has the same spacer on the passenger's side, but it was more difficult to get a good picture...
 
There are supposed to be alignment dowels in those locations, but in their proper orientation they do not create the kind of gap that I see in your pics. Something looks bunged up. The entire mating surface of the trans case must be totally flush with the rear of the engine block when it is installed. If not, bad things will happen. This is pretty strong visual evidence of operator error during the installation.
 
Thanks for the confirmation. So can it be put back together properly? Was the guy just being lazy? In my mind it seems like it should be as simple as loosening the motor mounts and jacking up the motor 1/4" during the install so everything mates up flush. However I'm just guessing.

I went and looked at it again and I think I was wrong. Those aren't spacers, I think it's just those alignment dowels.

I'd really appreciate any thoughts/advice on this one. I'm going to talk to the guy doing the work and see if he has any thoughts.

I appreciate any help people can offer
 
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Scoutboy or Robert, along the same line with the balance issue, I've got a fresh 392 I'm going to put a 4-spd behind. The 392 came with a flexplate(not installed) and crank pulley installed. I'm getting the flywheel, pp, bell and linkage from a 304/3-spd. Setup. Talk to me???? Am I jammed up????
 
One of the early steps outlined in the service manual for trans r & r is to support the rear of the engine. This can be accomplished from underneath with blocks or stands strategically placed, or it can be done from above by running a stout 4x4 across the fenders with short chains draped and fastened to the rear of the block. Otherwise, the rear of the engine will rotate downwards once the trans x-member and transmission are out. Its entirely possible that this step was ignored, which would have resulted in an unnatural mounting angle, pinched at the top and open at the bottom. If the trans to engine bolts and converter to flexplate bolts were then snugged without correcting the alignment issue, it stands to reason that undue stress and strain would have been exerted on at least part of the rotating mass. Its puzzling though. I mean, it seems like a pretty obvious gap in the pictures. What experienced wrench turner in their right mind would look at it, shrug their shoulders and say, "yep, that oughta hold 'er."?
 
its puzzling though. I mean, it seems like a pretty obvious gap in the pictures. What experienced wrench turner in their right mind would look at it, shrug their shoulders and say, "yep, that oughta hold 'er."?

X2...yeesh!

By having that gap at the bottom, the flex plate has effectively become a u-joint. Contrary to the label, a flex plate ain't designed to flex like this. The crack situation is easy to explain now. No doubt some stress on the input shaft/pump assembly too. 727s are pretty tough though, so you might be okay. Don't drive it anymore whatever you do! Tow it to the shop if you have to.
 
codeman said:
scoutboy or Robert, along the same line with the balance issue, I've got a fresh 392 I'm going to put a 4-spd behind. The 392 came with a flexplate(not installed) and crank pulley installed. I'm getting the flywheel, pp, bell and linkage from a 304/3-spd. Setup. Talk to me???? Am I jammed up????
Click to expand...

As indicated, there is a potential for engine vibration when ring gears are swapped. Switching from an auto to a manual trans is one of the most common Scout modifications in existence. Like Robert said, the balance is generally close enough that folks don't notice any issues. Going this direction, you'll also need to remove the metal spacer shim from between the starter and block if still in place.
 
scoutboy74 said:
Its puzzling though. I mean, it seems like a pretty obvious gap in the pictures. What experienced wrench turner in their right mind would look at it, shrug their shoulders and say, "yep, that oughta hold 'er."?
Click to expand...

Indeed. Guy must have had a bad day, or been drunk. Although, I do know of at least one guy, near me, who is lame enough to do something like this. The type of guy who reads every automotive mag out there and thinks what he reads is the bible of know it all. But when it comes to actually doing the mechanical work, I would not trust it if my life depended on it. He is so bad that he purchased a $10k, give or take a few, crate motor(351w). Then once it arrived, he let it sit for like 6 months, in the crate, still shrink wrapped, before he decided to get up off his lazy arse and pull it out.:out:

on with this trans mounting being all boogered up, like scoutboy said - both mating surfaces have to be flush, between the motor and trans. When I re-install either a motor or a trans, I always make sure that they are flush with each other and then tighten down the bell housing to block bolts. Once that is done, then I install the bolts for the torque converter to flex plate.

Another thing I do while I tighten up the bolts for the bell housing to the block, is making sure that the converter spins freely. The converter must have a very slight play rotating and back n forth. Allowing the flex plate to do just that - flex little, when every thing is all bolted together properly
 
Hey! I have been having a similar problem (but a little different I think) with my '78 Scout automatic w/ 304.

You can't hear it at all over 15-20mph, but as I slow down there is a ticking/clicking noise coming from the same area you described. I will see if I can upload a video soon. The frequency of the clicks are proportionate to vehicle speed and so it stops when the Scout comes to a stop. Any ideas? It's hard to figure out where it's coming fro. Because it has to be driving unless I can get the rear end jacked up and check it that way.
 
It isn't the flexplate bolts if the vehicle has to be moving to make the noise. Flexplate bolts that are loose enough to make a noise will do so any time the engine is running. My guess is your noise is coming from one of your four corners (wheels). Front disc brake calipers can sometimes be responsible for clunks and clacks that change pitch or go away completely when the brakes are gently applied. If this is a 4x4 model, it could also be something within your transfer case, the rear prop shaft universal joints, or the rear differential. I know that's a lot of possibilities, but given the limited description, its really going to be incumbent on you to do some methodical and logical troubleshooting to see if you can home in on the source of the noise.
 
While driving it today the clicking was significantly worse and was continuing loudly at higher speeds (30-40 mph). Then it started chirping (a whistling squeal). I recorded a video of it and let my father-in-law hear it and he immediately recognized it as a U-Joint problem. We replaced the universal joints on the 4WD shaft and the ticking/clicking (and now chirping) is gone! Thanks for the help. Just wanted to share in case it can help someone else.
 
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