Just bought First Scout!

littlebuck23

littlebuck23

Member
Just got it after hunting for the right deal for a while. Im making it into my daily driver while I restore my wagoneer. Iv been wanting a Scout for a while now.



1975 Scout II
International 304v8 (guy said it has the 325's 2 barrel carb)
d 44 front and rear to my knowlege with posi
what looks like a Dana 20 t case?
Tf 727 trans.
Air conditioning. (will work soon)

I got it from the 2nd owner. The seal on the top hasnt been cut.....that thing has never been off.

Anyway I have some questions about these rigs........

Does the oil pressure always indicate low?

Does the temp always indicate low?

It shutters a little just before coming to a stop. Common problem?

What are the tow package options like for these? Id like to tow around a mid size trailer every so often to get to the lake.


Here are some pics. The dude even had the original paperwork form when it was ordered special from the dealer way back when. I havnt really had a chance to read everything in the manuals or examine the line order tag so fire away with the input fellas!!!

img_7411.jpg


img_7408.jpg


img_7407.jpg


img_7404.jpg


img_7403.jpg


img_7402.jpg


img_7401.jpg


img_7399.jpg


img_7398.jpg

.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/littlebuck23/Scout/img_7395.jpg[/img ]

[img]http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/littlebuck23/Scout/img_7393.jpg
 
Looks like a good score, nice solid original survivor.

The shuddering should go away with some basic maintenance and a tune up.

Change your fluids, plugs, etc. Lots of info in these forums, use the search button and you'll find everything you need.
 
Once you get it running decent, I recommend searching the tread for “power timing” and following the steps to do it. It made a nice difference in my Scout
 
Loose or dirty connections are usually to blame for low reading gauges.

Siis were available with tow ratings up to 5k. Check your line set ticket. If you've got 3.54 or 3.73 gears with the v8 and at yours has the 5k rating.

You will want to replace the missing fan shroud before you go working it too much though.

The grille guard and roll bar appear to be the IH items. All around you've got a pretty nice rig there.
 
I will clean up the guage connections good tip. Also. Is the fuel guage adjustable? A 30 gallon aftermarket tank has been installed so it reads more like half when its full. Can the sensativaty be turned up? A new fuel sender came with the rig but id rather not drop that huge gas tank.

Here are some pics of what the floor looks like. I have a complete carpet kit on the way. The factory vynl was shot big time.

There is a little rust bun nothing a little wire wheel and a few cans of bedliner cant remedy.

img_7414.jpg


img_7413.jpg


img_7412.jpg


img_7416.jpg


img_7419.jpg


img_7420.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks like your rig came with 3.08 gears so your tow rating should be around 2000lbs.

The fuel gauge reading low is likely bad connections. The stamped steel nuts connecting the gauges to the circuit board were causing the low readings on all of my rigs. Once the circuit board was cleaned the nuts replaced with brass they went to full again.
 
Welcome to ihon!

You are fortunate to have available such a nice collection of print information regarding this vehicle.

Here's a link regarding how to use that information, while it's in regards to a Scout 80 from an earlier time, everything in that thread regarding how to use the various resources is still pertinent:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/3446-line-set-tickets.html

Any and all ihc-produced vehicles were "special ordered". There is no such thing as a "pool" vehicle in regards to IH products. Every item had to be spec'd on an order form by the ordering dealer for each vehicle. Certainly dealers spec'd many vehicles exactly the same for placement in their inventory based upon popular packages for their market. This method of production control on the part of ihc is significantly different as compared to the way that other oem manufacturers supplied vehicles to dealers who in many cases simply ordered "pool" vehicles from large inventories assembled and staged around the country.
 
eric vanburen said:
looks like your rig came with 3.08 gears so your tow rating should be around 2000lbs.

The fuel gauge reading low is likely bad connections. The stamped steel nuts connecting the gauges to the circuit board were causing the low readings on all of my rigs. Once the circuit board was cleaned the nuts replaced with brass they went to full again.
Click to expand...

So basically, people that fix their own scouts need to have brass nuts.
 
First scout------ Daily Driver mini build.

Ok so for the gauges ill clean em all up and install brass nuts, then see what happens.

Last nights efforts.

img_7423.jpg


img_7422.jpg


img_7424.jpg



Found some holes in the passenger floorboards.
Ill be tearing out the back seat and rear vynl flooring tonight. Hope I don't find any more holes.

Not good.

I'm planning on drilling a hole in the floor so rain water will drain from the fresh air system as that is where it looks like the water has come from to do said damage.

Got the title transferred yesterday. Cost me a whopping 60$$ but worth every penny as I am a no smog guy with this rig even here in CA.
 
By "fresh air system" do you mean the kick panel vent?

If water is leaking in there, the pocket between the a-pillar and the outer fender May be filled with dirt, leaves, small animals, etc.

Were there a lot of trees near where this Scout used to live?

You should consider taking the front fenders off and cleaning out behind the fender. Doors have to come off first though.
 
Yep I did mean the kick panel vents. I guess ill take off the fenders. I dont really want to but if that's how one gains access than that's what ill do.


Thanks about the tip with the cvr I will defiantly order the one suggested in that thread. I figured something was up cause the oil and temp both were indicating low all the time.

Took off the top yesterday. It had never been removed before. Found light rust but nothing to get shook up about. I'm gonna bed liner the floor and re paint the side panels and tailgate to match existing. Anyone know what the best matching rattle can paint is?

Oh and another thing..... How does the air conditioner come out? The ducting is easy enough but that evaporator didn't want to move.

Hey thanks for the link on how to read the line ticket. All the dealer gobbly gook can be hard to deceiver sometimes. Why cant that stuff be in pain english.

img_7428.jpg


img_7427.jpg


img_7425.jpg
 
Have you went through and cleaned and tightened the connections on the gauges? If not do that before you try and replace the cvr. Also before you replace the cvr you should check it's calibration. All you need is a 10 ohm resistor or at least 1/2 watt. Connect it between the wire at the senders and a good ground that should make the gauge read at the top Mark +/- one needle width. If all of the gauges don't pass that test, after cleaning and tightening the connections, then you have a bad cvr.

After looking at your LST a little more, it isn't real likely that your truck was "special ordered" by a customer. What you have is what is known as a gold star prototype. A canned package so that a dealer could place an order for a truck w/o only indicating the gsp package and interior/exterior colors, usually done for floor stock or demo vehicles.

Look near the bottom of the second page you'll find

gold s sctt 5-44-110
proto

that translates to

gold star proto = gold star prototype
sctt = Scout traveltop
5 = 1975 model year
44 = 4x4
110 = particular package

in your case based on my 78 gsp ordering guide and price list you have a deluxe family wagon with the additional options of CA emissions, ac, door edge guards and console. Of course that doesn't mean it wasn't special ordered, it is possible that the original purchaser said I want one just like that but in orange, so that is what was ordered.

The 4 nuts that hold the evaporator assembly are on the engine side of the firewall, one of them inside the wheel well.
 
Thanks for the tip about getting the evaporator out. Boy did it need a cleaning it was all clogged with dirt and dog hair.

Your probably right about dealers ordering a lot of vehicles that have the same specs. The dude I bought it from said it was ordered special so that's what I was going from. It really doesn't matter to me either way.

After a pile of armature welds and metal work,and a few small fires, I got all the holes patched and some paint and primer laid down this weekend.


Oh and do I need the charcoal canister anymore. Some of the smog stuff has been removed. The line to the gas tank was still there and connected but the other one was capped. Im asking cause I melted thru that line and the input line to the fuel pump when welding this weekend and have to replace the fuel line form the tank to the pump so the motor will run again. So, do I need the charcoal canister or can it go?, as I am smog exempt due to the Scout being made in 1975.


Scout is looking a whole lot better now. I cant wait to install the carpet and re upholstered seats and go for a ride!!!.

img_7474.jpg


img_7473.jpg


img_7472.jpg


img_7471.jpg


Its come quite a ways since it look like this!

img_7425.jpg
 
littlebuck23 said:
Oh and do I need the charcoal canister anymore. Some of the smog stuff has been removed. The line to the gas tank was still there and connected but the other one was capped. Im asking cause I melted thru that line and the input line to the fuel pump when welding this weekend and have to replace the fuel line form the tank to the pump so the motor will run again. So, do I need the charcoal canister or can it go?, as I am smog exempt due to the Scout being made in 1975.
Click to expand...


Well this is a sticky situation for CA. Technically even if exempt from bi-anual emissions inspections, it is not legal to remove or disable any smog equipment. So no one should tell you so. At least on a public form ihon will not.

Just because you won't be asked to show your junk doesn't mean we can tell you to strip the emissions equipment off.

If you read between the lines I think you get what I am trying to tell you. :ihih:
 
If...the evaporative emissions system is modified in any way, it will impact the venting of the fuel supply/delivery system. Most likely to the point it becomes near impossible to fill the tank properly/easily and fuel starvation to the carburetor will occur.

And...if ya manage to fill the tank completely, then expansion of the fuel due to ambient temperature will force liquid fuel out the filler cap/neck interface, no matter how you try and seal it. And if you do seal it, you will have no fuel storage system vent. So you end of chasing your tail with no decent outcome.

The ees is a totally passive component and in no way affects vehicle performance if it's operating correctly,...if it does not operate correctly, then fuel starvation will result.

Study the concept of the ees as outlined in the appropriate service manual. No one here at ihon is going to explain how to perform an illegal workaround regarding the ees.
 
I will definatly look into the ees system. I don't know to what extent its already been modified. I'm certainly not interested in having fueling problems or starvation problems. A 30 gallon tank was installed by somebody. I'll take a look and see what has been done.
 
I was going to post a similar thread, picked up that 78 traveller and when I opened the hood I was like whoa whats all this? Charcoal canister, for what a small bbq, I see the air pump and a bunch of lines, I'm not familiar with it, it worked with it on so I am not messing with it.
 
Got some sound deadening, carpet and trim installed. Starting to look nicer now.

Here are some more goofy photos.

You can see my wagoneer in the backround. I was building that but it turned out that it need more attention than I have time for so I bought the Scout to drive around till the wag gets its resto done.


img_7476.jpg


img_7478.jpg


img_7479.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top