I"m having trouble!!!

Can someone please help:confused5: there is excess fuel down in my intake manifold and I need to get it out, I used a cyphon pump and pumped a lot out, but then I tried to crank the Scout again and it was an even louder backfire than before, does anyone know how to get all the fuel out without taking the manifold off? I'm desperate, I don't want to keep trying to crank it if all the backfires are going to break something, it's loud too, my ears are even ringing!! I have a new fuel pump, new sending unit, 2 new filters and a new Holley 2300 on it, if it matters. Thanks ahead of time!
 
The best way would be to pull the intake. The fuel will evaporate if it can be exposed to enough air. The spark plugs are sure to be totally saturated with fuel, so here's what I'd do. Pull every damn one of them. Be sure to id the wires so you don't screw up the firing order. Pull the carb if you haven't already. Siphon and rag soak up as much raw fuel out of the intake as you can. Then force copious amounts of compressed air down thru the intake while cranking the engine for short bursts with all plugs removed. Might make a mess out of the spark plug holes, so be prepared for some cleanup. Then let the thing sit overnight with all those exposed holes and yer buddy owlgorzz principles of atmospheric accumulation should take care of the rest.
 
Stick some rags down the intake and absorb the excess fuel. Leave it open to the atmosphere and excess liquid will evaporate fairly quickly.

Disable the ignition and crank the motor over to clear out the combustion chambers. If the plugs are fuel fouled they May (or May not) come back to life and clean themselves once the motor is running.

The bigger issue...if liquid fuel has flooded though the intake ports, it's now run down the cylinder walls and diluted the oil in the crankcase. And a bum fuel pump can push liquid fuel right into the crankcase also through the fuel pump arm opening in the timing cover.

If any crankcase dilution is suspected, drain the oil and change the filter. This is a fairly common issue regarding any engine that has a crapped carb that allows major flooding.

If this is a new carburetor (not just "new" to you), then it must have the fuel level in the bowl confirmed once the engine is running, do that by removing the sight hole plug on the side of the bowl, and then adjusting the needle/seat unit on top of the bowl.
 
Thanks for the info, I'll get the plugs out and get some rags down in there, the fuel is in the holes at the bottom of the intake, the flooded carb was the 2210 that came from my old 74 Scout, after it flooded, I bought a brand new 2300 (7448 type) and a new fuel pump b/c the fuel pump kept surging and that's what was causing the flooding, I checked the oil when I took the old carb off and it didn't look diluted but I'm sure it is, the fuel I sucked out with the cyphon looked purple for some reason, anyways, I will change the oil and filter one more time, after I'm sure all the excess fuel is out, the new carb hasn't had fuel ran through it yet, so hopefully it's okay, again thanks for all the help and I'll see if I can get that fuel out tomorrow.

Thanks
 
Dried everything out, put new plugs in, fresh oil and filter, and fresh fuel filters and fuel, fires right up runs like a champ, let foot off the gas and she dies, do you think I need to mess with the idle set on the carb since it's brand new?
 
Just a couple pics if it helps.

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Regarding any carb replacement, new, used, reconditioned, take-off, etc., ya always need to adjust the idle mixtures and the idle speed (in combination). And that should be done after the fuel level in the bowl on that carb is verified (should be at bottom of the sight hole) and corrected if needed. And final adjustments are made after the engine is fully up to temp, minimum of 20 minute run time. Idle speed should be 650>700rpm in park/neutral when idle mixtures are set.
 
Okay, should the engine be running when I pull the site plug on the side? And just to be sure the site plug is on the passenger side right? I've never adjusted a carb!
 
Yes, site plug on passenger side. Have the vehicle on level ground with the engine at idle. Have a rag handy to sop up raw fuel which will seep out if the float has been set too high.
 
Thanks, the only problem is I can't get the engine to idle without keeping my foot on the gas or keeping my hand on the throttle on the carb! Maybe it's time to use my wife!!!!
 
Being that it's a new carb, the float level should be pretty close. If you don't want to bother the wife, crank the idle setting up so that it will run unassisted, but slowly and then verify the level.
 
Thanks, I'll get on top of that now and I'll post a little later, and I like bothering the wife b/c she doesn't have a clue whats going on.
 
scoutboy74 said:
being that it's a new carb, the float level should be pretty close. If you don't want to bother the wife, crank the idle setting up so that it will run unassisted, but slowly and then verify the level.
Click to expand...

The actual operational fuel level on these new, out-of-the box Holley modular carbs is never close! It's always standard practice to verify fuel level adjustment with the carb installed onna live motor if the carb being installed has the externally-adjustable needle/seat.

The so-called "no trouble" versions of some of the Holley replacement carbs do not have the external adjustable fuel level, those must have the float level set with the bowl removed and inverted, the tang on the float is the only adjustment. When we set up new Holley modular carbs for ihon customers, they are never ready to go out of the box from the warehouse, we go through several checkpoints when we set 'em up, including changing jetting based upon the customer's operational location, installation of an electric choke conversion if ordered, and verification of fuel level adjustment.

I prefer to not use the Holley modulars labeled "no trouble", those are cost-reduction units and are available in a very limited range of list numbers.

If the engine won't idle now, then it's because the idle stop screw is not adjusted to the point that it is engaging the throttle arm to provide an adequate idle speed, simply crank it in two turns and try it. Fast idle on these carbs with the choke fully engaged is pre-set at the point of manufacture to provide a fast idle speed of 1300>1500rpm.

The "fast idle" with choke partially closed is not the same adjustment as the curb idle speed that is critical once the engine is fully warm and the choke actuator completely "off". Fast idle adjustment is on the passenger side. Curb idle adjustment is on the driver side.
 
Thanks for all the help guys!! I checked the fuel level and got it to where it's just below the site hole, I turned the idle screw a couple turns and got it to idle, it is idling smooth, but not perfectly smooth, it's just a tad bumpy, not so bad that it's really noticeable but just a bit, and now of all things my damn temperature gauge quit, it was working before now it's not, but I think I can just put in an autometer gauge hopefully, when I first got it all the gauges worked, now only the oil pressure is working properly and the speedo seems to be working, to fix the small idle bump do I need to adjust the idle mixtures to get it running close to perfect ya think? I am going to let it sit over night and try to start it cold in the morning and see if it will still idle, I let it idle for about 20 minutes and it seemed fine. Thanks again for all the assistance!
 
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Yer duin' more guuder now! That's a big improvement over having fifty gallons of raw fuel puddled up in your intake just a few days ago. Ya can't hardly go wrong with that 7448 carb. She shore is purdy:ihih:
the slightly uneven idle you describe is quite likely due to your idle mixture being out of adjustment. Might as well do it right when you mess with it tomale. Turn each mixture screw in until lightly seated. Back them both out precisely 2.5 turns. Bring the engine up to operating temp and hook up your vacuum gauge. You want to adjust for the highest steady number you can get. Start on one side and rotate clockwise until the needle peaks. If you go too far, the engine will begin to stumble. The combination of gauge and your ear will allow you to fine tune. Repeat the procedure with the other screw. Depending upon your elevation, you should see about 17 or 18 steady hg on the gauge with an idle speed of @ 700 rpms. The higher your elevation, the lower the readout will be.

With the temp gauge, be sure all your finagling around didn't dislodge the wire from the temp sender. It's right up there in front of the carb.
 
Thanks again, I'll get back at it in the morning, I don't wanna keep the neighbors up!! It was so nice at the old house in the middle of no where with no neighbors, but noooooooo wife has to have a bigger house!!! Oh well!!!!
 
Is 20 too high on the vacuum gauge?
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It sounds real smooth and idles well now and it might even be drivable!!

Oh yeah, and my temp gauge works again, it was just loose right where you said it would be!!
 
A vacuum reading of 20"hg is outstanding, the higher the better. Manifold vacuum can never be too high!

That carb should be equipped with #61 main jets out of the box. Normally on older real gasoline that was not alcohol-doped, that jetting would be a bit fat (Rich). But with the advent and forced use of e10, the 61 jet setup should be about right at your operational altitude.

Only test driving and checking plug color can verify jetting. A slightly lean jetting will create a very significant surge at a steady cruise at say 45mph.
 
Papa mayben x2. I think you can put this thread to bed. Yer not havin' no troubles now! On to the next issue. Oh, by the way, you owe mayben a shiner bock and me a sailor jerry if you ever git out thisaway:ihih:
 
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