Gotta drop my 727

BrandosSII

BrandosSII

New member
So I have a 75 Scout II with a 727 in it and it has started leaking real bad where the trans body and tail shaft housing meet (leaks down on the upper lip of the pan right about center) so since I have to pull out my tranny to replace the freeze plug at the back of the motor I figure I'll swap in a new gasket there. So I've never pulled the tranny out of a Scout. Done many GM's (blazer, k-1500, 69 3/4 pu... Jeeps, willy's, broncos, mazda rx-7, civics, yota's) but no scouts... So any advice, tips, tricks anything I should watch out for? Tc issues? Anything to help me out would be greatly appreciated... Thanks:icon_up:
 
Pretty straight forward. A good trans jack is your friend. Have all peripheries disconnected ie linkages, nss pigtail, fa warning light, dust cover, converter bolts etc etc. You will need to support the rear of the engine either from above or below. From above can be accomplished with a stout beam running across the fenders wrapped with short chain lengths and bolted into a threaded hole in the rear of each cylinder head. From below can be done with some blocks and a bottle jack under a corner of the engine block. Remove the t-case separately first. Then position your trans jack under the trans pan and apply just enough pressure. Now the cross member comes out. Then you can move onto the bell bolts. The trans should separate from the engine pretty easily. Its a real tight fit under the sii dog house, especially if you have dual exhaust to clear. Hopefully your trans jack has the ability to tilt side to side as well as fore and aft. You don't have the luxury of just going straight up and down with a level package. Much jockeying and course language is required. Good luck.
 
I think trever has pretty much covered it all. I will add though if you don't have a transmission jack or at least a buddy to help lift it up and down there are a few other things to consider. I have done it by myself with a regular floor jack, it can be done. But you have to consider how high the Scout is jacked up. The heigth of the floor jack plus tranny is pretty tall, the Scout has to be up high enough to get the tranny out from under the Scout. If it is not you have to get the tranny on and off the jack while it is under the Scout, not an easy task. Also if the Scout is to high the floor jack won't go high enough.
It's so much easier with a helper or a tranny jack.

Ron
 
Well gonna be pulling it myself with a floor jack... Tranny jack would be nice but closet one is 40 miles away... And planning on using my buddy help card for putting back in as I think that will be harder.

Is there anything special I should watch/ do in regards to torque vert? Had some "ol timmie" guy say "youz hav to Mark it and put it back right were it come off... It's balance you know"
 
There's no balance issue. There are four bolts that secure the converter to the flexplate. The pattern is not a perfect square, so it tends to line up best only one way. You May or May not have a drain plug in the convertor which will need to line up with a cutaway in the flexplate for access. Not a bad idea to give yourself an index Mark if you think of it, but I've never worried about it. Just be sure that all holes are lining up before you begin snugging any of the bolts. If you wind up separating the converter from the trans, be sure you have proper orientation and engagement of the converter to the pump drive tangs before you button everything up. Very easy to destroy the pump drive gears with a misalignment.
 
For lifting the tranny in and out, remove the floor over the tranny, roll down windows and put 4x4 or 6x6 across doors and use small come-along and strap to lift and lower them.
 
I had no problem using my floor jack and I used the transmission cross member on the floor jack as a transmission jack. I drilled a hole between the 2 slotted holes in the cross member the same diameter as the hole in the floor jack pad bolt. I used a small piece of 2x4 on the front of the cross member to get the angle close to what the engine angle was.

I used 2 pieces of 1" diameter .120 wall pipe a little over 54 inches long between the fenders and bolted a chain to each cylinder head to support the engine when the transmission is removed.

Now would also be a good time to replace the rear main seal. I think I have a few notes on my thread "727 puking oil". Good luck and have patience.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top