Goldbox vs pertronics

[superc_1]

I've had my Scout started once,but it was hard to get it started? I have new everything gb, plugs and I haven't been able to get it started again? So; would a pertronics help it start it easier than the gb? Which; pertronics is the right one for a 76' 345 Scout terra? I keep reading it helps in easier starts in different threads.
Thanks.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Howdy dwight! Back from a successful texas trip? A lot of things can contribute to a hard start condition with these engines. I recall from your other thread that you managed to achieve adequate fuel delivery to the combustion chamber from the carb. Hopefully that's still the case. Is the butterfly valve or choke plate fully operational on this carb? These engines are notorious for being cold-booded on initial start/warm-up and do need choke applied in the proper measure. As to which is better, a gold box system with all components in verified good condition is certainly capable of providing years of trouble-free operation. Do you have the means to submit digital images? If so, take a few under the hood standing at the passenger side with emphasis on the gold module, the distributor with and without cap in place and the carb/choke assembly. They're worth a million words when it comes to cyber-identification and diagnosis.

 

[superc_1]

Sb74
I'll get some pictures. I had the fuel tank cleaned and hooked everything back up and I think it needs fuel line from front toback replaced so I hooked the temporary tank back up but no go? My starter also keeps kicking out? It will turn it over a minute then it sounds like it jumps out of the flywheel? The texas run was good and I'm trying to get the Scout to a friends house who's going to help me change the tub out and was going to address alot of the issue with the tub off and easy to get to everything, but I was hoping to drive it out there instead having pull it out to his shop. Its suppose to warm up this week so things should be easier to mess with.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Glad to hear the trip went well. So did you actually try to fire the engine from the oe tank before switching back to the temp? If so, you've re-introduced a variable back into the equation. It's possible you May have sucked some crap from the questionable fuel lines and created a temporary blockage somewhere. Or the system May have lost it's prime in between and during fuel source switches. I advise you to observe nozzle squirter action again just like before and also pull a few random spark plugs. Observe them for evidence of fresh fuel contact. If they're dry, the engine is fuel starved. If you got a can of ether, you could give a quick blast down the carb gullet and hit the key. If she fires right up and then dies, that's another indicator that sufficient fuel to maintain combustion either has not yet or perhaps cannot enter the chamber. As I see it, you've still got too many variables going on with your fuel delivery system to begin opening the gold box versus pertronix debate, especially if you're still making enough spark to fire the engine even momentarily.

And how about that choke? Does she work right or not?

 

[Michael Mayben]

I might add, the gold box trigger and a pertronix trigger are identical technology, both "hall effect".

The gold box system uses the "box" as an amplifier, that was the technology at that point in time for oem systems since a part of what they do is interface with some of the oem emissions components. The pertronix unit cannot do that.

If the gold box system is working in all respects, then there is nothing wrong with those whatsoever!

It is only in the last few years that a replacement pertronix unit has been made available for the Holley 1530 (gold box) distributor than can replace everything, but it can't interface with the dtm unit. When that p-tron is installed, some re-wiring must be done and the gold box amplifier is eliminated all together.

There can be multiple failure modes for the gold box (as well as the pertronix), but I'm with trever here, I seriously doubt the issue is the ignition system. I'd install some sort of "spark tester" on at least two plug wires and crank and watch what happens when the motor goes dead and ya then try to re-crank. Ya gotta verify if ya got spark at the plugs. Spark checkers can be left on the plug cable indefinitely while the motor is running, no problem.

 

[superc_1]

Sb74
I blew out the gas line. Gas tank was sealed. New sender unit. I use either, I've done and checked just about everything suggested. When I had motor running I let it run for about 30 min. To make sure it got good and warm and hopefully blow the motor inside out good? Now the starter is a problem; cause, it keeps kicking out after a few turn overs? I hope warmer weather will help the cold start syndrome of the sv. I haven't rechecked spark but I had good spark when motor started the one time. Please keep coming with suggestions; cause, sooner or later and money I'll get her up and running good.

 

[Scoutboy74]

If you're absolutely sure that the carby is still squirting fuel on demand every time, then do like mayben said and re-verify spark. You didn't mess with the timing after you had it running, right? If you're still able to breathe, and you got good fuel action and spark is good, that should be all you need. The choke plate needs to be almost fully closed (very tiny gap) at start up and then gradually opened as the engine warms.

You've probably done enough cranking without the engine running to deplete the battery charge. That could be the reason for your starter issue. Test it with a dvom if you have one set to read dc current on two digit, which is likely the lowest setting. A fully charged battery will display 12.8 volts give or take a point. If much lower than that, throw a trickle charge into it to restore full charge. There's no sense trying to diagnose an electrical issue unless you know for a fact the battery is at full charge. That said, you can always remove, clean and tighten all major connections along the starter circuit beginning with the battery.

 

[superc_1]

Brand new battery, but I did give it a little tickle charge for a good measure. Here's pic of the carb. I going to pull the plugs tonight and see if they are gumed up? They are new thats how I got it start before. The motor has been sitting for so long the other plugs had sh-t all over them. I was hoping by running the motor for 30 min. It would have clened the cyclinders up good?