Glaring signs for 727 rebuild?

Tahoedonner

Tahoedonner

Member
So transmission leaks like crazy. I've known this for the whole time but never realized how much since fluid has never been added since recently. In my short drive after adding fluid the transmission responded very nicely. I've decided to re-seal shift shaft seals, new nss and seal, new pan with drain plug, new fangled mopar gasket, transgo tf-2 shift kit, new filter, new trans mount, adjust bands, and then properly adjust linkage. I've read through about 5 727 rebuild threads and feel comfortable rebuilding the trans if need be but am pretty sure this will do the trick this time around. When removing the valve body are there any glaring signs that would scream rebuild now?
 
The glaring signs will be the visual condition of the fluid in the pan as well as the smell, however, since yours has been leaking like a sieve, these usual tell tale signs May not be so obvious. A high mileage trans that hasn't been properly maintained and perhaps even overheated will show significant accumulation of sloughed friction material contamination in the pan along with discolored atf that will exhibit a strong burnt odor. The band tension will also be sloppy on one or both bands. Since the unit is still fully functional, there's nothing wrong with the approach you've proposed. If you get your leaks sealed and manage to coax another 10k miles or more out of the trans before it goes into failure mode, you've done fine. You can always rebuild it then.
 
Here's two examples of signs of needing a complete over haul.
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This was taken from my 72 ole yeller. Along with the stinch of burnt oil. As trevor mentioned, it May be difficult with continual addition of go go juice when you're dealing with a leaky trans. Another issue I had from a shop rebuilt 727, is the 3 pressure ports. The shop had their heads up their butts and forgot to tighten up all 3 threaded plugs. So that might be another thing to look at for source of leaks
 

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Thanks for the help/suggestions so far guys. Transmission linkage needs some major adjustment tomorrow. Just read a bunch of threads pertaining to the procedure. Most intriguing question I came across was if I should adjust linkage with shifter and trans in n or p. N seems to be a really good idea.

Good thing is that there is no leakage so far from the shifter seals. Hoping they hold since I didn't smooth out the shaft.
 
I don't have the manual in front of me to quote from, but think of it this way...park and l1 are the polar ends of linkage travel. If you are able to fully engage park and l1, everything in between will fall into place.
 
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