Gears

superc_1

Member
Whats the proper way to shift into gear? I got it in 4l but had a hard time getting it out. When I got back home it shifted into 2h real easy? Is there an easy way to get it to go in and out of the different gears.
 
Depends on your lockouts for one, manual or lock-o-matic.

I usually can shift from d to n to r or vis-versa on the tranny to take the pressure out of the t-case. If you shift the t-case into neutral it is best to shut it down until all gears have stopped (motor will keep them turning). That happens to me sometimes when I over-shoot 2h from 4h. It will grind like crazy if you try to shift it back to quick.

Ron
 
I've got an unfair advantage here since I've been abusing dwight for some time now. '76 terra with 345/727/d20. The point is a good one. Dwight, you ought to think about going into the user cp and adding a signature line with merle's vitals so that anytime you start a new thread about him, they show up automatically at the bottom of each post.
Now, the fact that merle has a 727 makes the t-case shifting a little hinky as compared to a Scout with a manual trans. That's just part of the deal. You'll get used to it as we all do. The proper procedure for shifting into the various locations is as follows:
into 4lo from any other position: bring the vehicle to a complete stop. Depress the brake and shift the transmission gear selector into nuetral. Apply firm forward pressure to the t-case lever until 4lo is engaged.

From 4lo into 2hi: basically a reverse of the above procedure with a few addditions. While you are pulling back on the t-case lever, you will want to slowly cycle the trans gear selector from
n-r-p then p-r-n. This should get the t-case at least into n if not all the way into 2hi. If you encounter grinding from n to 2hi, the best thing to do is shut the engine off. Wait a few seconds and then pop the lever from n to 2hi and restart. Yeah, it's a pita, but it does help. You don't want to just keep fighting and grinding.

Shifting from 2hi to 4hi and back is meant to be done and best achieved on the fly. When going from 2 hi into 4hi, you want to be accelerating mildly as you pull on the lever. You want to be decelerating a little as you go from 4hi back into 2hi. Now this doean't mean that you can't engage or disengage 4hi from a dead stop, it's just easier to do it in motion. Hope that helps.
 
shifting from 2hi to 4hi and back is meant to be done and best achieved on the fly. When going from 2 hi into 4hi, you want to be accelerating mildly as you pull on the lever. You want to be decelerating a little as you go from 4hi back into 2hi. Now this doean't mean that you can't engage or disengage 4hi from a dead stop, it's just easier to do it in motion. Hope that helps.

The only change I might add trever is if you have lock-o-matics and they are in the auto position you have to be stopped to put it in 4h from 2h. But you can shift from 4h to 2h on the fly with the auto setting on lock-o-matics.
Can you guess I have lock-o-matics. Lol

ignore this if you have manual lock outs:cornut:
ron
 
Good point ron! None of the Scout's I've played with have had the lock-os, so no frame of reference there for me.
 
Back
Top