Fair price to pay?

M

McMullen

New member
Hello all! I am new to IHPA, have been wanting a Scout for a long time, and am finally in a position to jump in. I'm not sure if I am asking an appropriate question, or if I'm posting in the right spot, but wanted to ask you all, given your extensive experience in this arena.

I found a 74 sii, has been sitting in a lot for 3 years with bad motor, 345 stripped down and in need of rebuild, cancer in lower front quarters, couple of other dents and dings, looks otherwise original. Suffered a dash fire years ago, new wire loom in engine compartment. Haven't been to visually inspect, so I don't know how extensive fire damage May be. Non-stock wheels (tires are long for this world either). Original 727, owner says it was working fine went it was last running.

Here's the question: the asking price is $1200 obo. I haven't talked price with the seller, but I want to have a good idea of acceptable ranges, given condition. Can you guys provide some insight about how to approach this? I want to be fair, but don't want to overpay. I've read several atories here about various deals and steals you guys have picked up, so I thought you May be able to give some feedback. Thanks!
 
Price depends on a whole lot of things, number one being how many there are in your area and how popular they are. That price is in the ball park of what I've seen. The real cost will be in restoring it to what ever level you desire. I paid $1600 for my '74 Scout in '85 with 84k miles on it and I'm still trying to get my money's worth out of it. ;-)

tell us about what you'd like to do with this Scout.
 
I might be speaking from a warped 2001 reality which no longer exists in terms of Scout values - that's when I bought my non-driver project with upside for $500. Even now, I feel like $1200 for a non-runner, which sounds by your description like it needs significant tlc, is on the upper end of reasonable for that condition. I think if seeing it in person doesn't scare you off, you would be well within your right to offer $750. If the seller came back with a 'let's meet halfway" counter, then you'd have a real decision on your hands. In addition to chappie's question, it might help to know roughly how much upfront capital you have to play with. If you're able to stretch into the 3-5k range I think you'll see more doors begin to open for you. Being able to hear the engine run is always a plus. Being able to test drive and then drive one home is nearly priceless.
 
@chappie thanks for your comments!

I've wanted a Scout since high school, and I realized after starting my company a couple years ago that I no longer have need for the 2012 genesis that resides in my garage (or the $500 monthly payment that comes with it), so I decided I could reallocate that monthly payment (plus a bit here and there) to building exactly what I want over the next year or 2. I need a pseudo-daily driver (I telecommute for work, so a "daily driver" consists of driving to the gym and the grocery store, the rare local client meeting, pick up the kids from school sometimes, etc. - not a tall order, and I can make due with my wife's rig during periods when the IH is undergoing the more extensive "phases" of the build), so here's the plan:

goal: daily driver (I drive about 25 miles/wk on avg), but can pack up the gear and kids and drive up to mountains or natl forest for camping, hiking, etc. Not going to be a crawler, mudder, or hardcore 4x4. Need to do highway speeds for a few hours without trouble to get to the mountains. Truck currently has 3.54 d44 front and back, rebuilt about 5 years ago (remember, it's been parked for the last 3yrs).

I have a line on a solid (enough) '69 345 that I can get for darn cheap, so I'll swap that in and rebuild the carb (Holley 2bbl), do an electronic ignition. Provided the 727 is solid, that should give me running wheels. While the engine is out, I'll go ahead and tear down the front clip, remediate any rust, and clean up/ paint the engine bay, clean and seal the fuel tank, replace wiring harness, other little stuff. The rest will be done in phases, as funds permit.

Not finalized on the order, but roughly:

- rebuild dash, May include converting to aftermarket gauges/panel
- all body work, replacing rusted panels, etc.
- 2.5 lift
- wheels and tires (flat black pro comp 98s with 31x10.5x15 a/t)
- redo exhaust, scrap cc
- paint (thinking satin dark grey on body and top)
- spray in liner for entire interior
- reupholster bucket fronts/bench rear.
- custom bumpers (May purchase, or I have some neighbors who are welders by trade and I can bribe with beer)

this is providing that other surprises don't pop up (which I'm sure they will).

I will also still have the original motor that I will slowly rebuild from scratch, so everything is fresh. Tranny will probably get an overhaul in their as well, if not needed sooner, so we're starting fresh there too .

Thanks for letting me ramble - I appreciate it! My idea May sound ridiculous, naive, unrealistic, or a combination of all of those, but it'll be fun! I did something similar back in high school with a 66 Chevy pickup, then again in college with my shovelhead stroker, but those were more like rat rods.

Always open to opinions, ideas, and suggestions, so feel free!
 
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@scoutboy - thanks for the input. To answer your question, starting capital is slim (about $2k to get a running vehicle - I had to sell the wife on this whole idea - she suggested trading down my current ride for an altima. She's the practical half, I'm not so much ;) but I'm a pretty good salesman, so that's the reason we're even having this discussion!

So starting cash is low, but will be able to commit $6-7k over the next 12 months to bring it all together.
 
That's quite a detailed response. More than what we're used to seeing when these topics come up. Kind of shocking, but in a good way. I think your plan sounds pretty good. Since you've btdt in the past, you know that things sometimes don't work out quite like you'd hoped and cost can easily go well above your initial estimates. But that's all part of the experience. Being a cheap bastard is sort of a badge of honor as a Scout honor. Its kind of an unwritten code. There's no shame in making a reasonable offer that's hundreds below the asking price. Also no shame in just walking away and holding out for the next one, if you get the feeling like you might be biting off more than you can chew once you've seen it.
 
I'm right there with you! Never get emotionally attached to a deal, and always be willing to walk away. I am happy to call myself a cheap bastard (where cheap makes sense - I'm willing to pay for quality where it matters: tools, guns, boots, you get the idea).

I am also a big diy person, which stems from the cheap bastard aspect. If you're mechanically inclined and know your limitations, then go for it! There are too many readily available resources out there (like here, youtube, etc) to not give it a go. Besides - what's the worst that could happen..
 
Right arm!:thumbsup: you'll be fine. You've got the right attitude and you've come to the right place. What part of ideehoe are you in?
 
Welcome
I'm kinda on the same warped sense of reality as trevor, when I paid $500 for my '72 yellow Scout in 2012. Motor ran great, but the 727 auto had no forward motion, even at full throttle. Also, missing passenger seat, and what was left of drivers seat was mostly springs poking ya in places you least expect. With respect to the overall scope of Scout values go, they are definitely on the rise. I have seen worse basket cases sell for twice that. As mentioned, try offering a low ball figure and go from there. I think 750 to 1k should be reasonably fair, but I'm a cheap bastard, except when it comes to quality tools and equipment.
You just might have a bargaining chip on your shoulders if the motor is missing parts. I'm not sure of exact figures, but rebuilds could go from 500 to 3k, depending on your skill level and/or who does the machining. A complete re-wire is roughly 25 to 30 hrs of labor (depending on skill level). Sourcing out additional parts from being overly cooked are out there. Lots of patience.
Good luck
oh, I forgot to mention about when I got my 73 beast in 2011, that I paid 1,500 for and drove it home from santa cruz. Tires alone that it rolled on cost almost as much, 35" donuts. But it needs lots of tlc to fix and replace a lot of p.o. Bugs
 
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Do some searches on what to look for regarding rust (body mounts & lower windshield frame comes to mind).

It sounds like you know what you are doing.
I always cringe when I hear someone say "make it a dd" before they purchase their first Scout.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but it takes time, work & $ with a 40yo rig (especially a Scout).

I would say 75% of the folks end up biting off more than they can chew & end up selling it 1/2 way done.

Also, don't expect to make a profit if you plan on selling it.
 
I'll second the wow response. Sounds like you'll be using your Scout pretty much the same as I do, except I respond to fire calls with my Scout. Good plan and it seems that Scout might fit the bill for you.

Since your planning to buy wheels and tires, there's a set of 265/75 - 16's running on my Scout that would be just about right for a 2.5" lift. More choices of tires in that size and they fit nice under the wheel wells. The 10.5/31 - 15's that came with the Scout would sling mud all up the side and even on the hood. I live on a dirt road so mud is a daily situation in the winter.

Sounds like the prospect Scout does not have a lot of po (previous owner) virus which is always a good thing. Let us know if you buy it. Send us some pics and welcome to the club!
 
mochamike said:
do some searches on what to look for regarding rust (body mounts & lower windshield frame comes to mind).

It sounds like you know what you are doing.
I always cringe when I hear someone say "make it a dd" before they purchase their first Scout.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but it takes time, work & $ with a 40yo rig (especially a Scout).

I would say 75% of the folks end up biting off more than they can chew & end up selling it 1/2 way done.

Also, don't expect to make a profit if you plan on selling it.
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Thanks for the tips regarding trouble spots for rust - will definitely fine-tooth those areas before making decision.

I hear what you're saying, and for most a dd Scout isn't realistic. If I still lived in houston, dallas, or boston I would agree - but we're in small town idaho now, and daily driving is all done within 5-10 miles, hardly ever over 40mph. In the summer, my car's a/c doesn't even have a chance to cool off the cabin before I get where I'm going!

As for profit - not looking for that. 99% of the time a vehicle is a depreciating asset, so you have to invest where it makes sense. Same thing when you remodel your house - do it for you, not for the return, because you won't recoup all those dollars. I want to build something that I can enjoy working on and driving, teach my boys auto mechanics with, and possibly pass to them when they start driving (gulp!). I think a decently cared-for Scout, with solid body and drivetrain, and a reputation for tank-like longevity, can fit the bill.
 
All good responses and ideas. If it were me I'd pony up to 2k for a runner instead of this one. This coming from the guy who paid $500 for a truck that needed new everything.
 
tahoedonner said:
all good responses and ideas. If it were me I'd pony up to 2k for a runner instead of this one. This coming from the guy who paid $500 for a truck that needed new everything.
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Donner I just read your entire build thread, and all I can say is holy crap. Lol! Left you some kudos on the other thread as well - solid work and dedication my man!

Here's the problem I've run into: at this $ range (under 3-4 grand)' I've found that they fall into 3 categories:

1. They run, but they're rotted
2. Body/chassis is relatively clean, but the drivetrain is shot
3. "frankenscouts"

I had a chance to go inspect the potential Scout today. Damn near no rust in the usual trouble spots, save for some flaking rust on inside ds floor pan and rot-thru on ds lower qp front.

Your build is just gorgeous and the attention to detail is commendable. You've replaced almost everything that can be replaced. Any more and you might have to get a new vin! I simply will not have the budget (or 4 yrs) to devote to that level of rebuild. I am reasonably confident that for less than $2k I can get this one up and running, albeit ugly. Then add to it as funds permit.

Thanks for your comments, and a big thanks for keeping the detailed thread about your build.
 
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