DUI yea/nay?

Thanks again for the responses. So correct me if I am wrong please. I have the following choices

1. Prestolite
a. Buy dizzy cap 20.00
b. Buy rotor 7.00
c. Buy wires 19.00
d. Buy dust cover 28.00

this is put this back as they should be. noting the dust cover is mandatory to ensure proper fit of dizzy cap?

2. Pertronix
a. Buy ignitor 3 120.00

would this eliminate any of the above items?

3. Dui
a. Eliminates all above except new wires. ~600.00

carb (2210c):
1. Try to find divorced choke. Cost unknown if it could be found
2. Rebuild carb ~170.00
3. Keeps all vacuum hoses

Holley 2300
1. Replace 2210c, loss some of the vacuum lines but a better card. 350.00 + add on electric choke
2. Buy new air cleaner set up. Cost unknown as I don't know which air cleaner I would need.

Suggestions/thoughts are appreciated. Thanks in advance
 
One alternative on the carb May be to convert to manual choke. And they are rebuildable my Scout still has the original carb and it runs just fine. It all depends what else is wrong with your carb.

The prestolite is a good dizzy. You get the high voltage lugs on the cap and they do keep the water out. Also with the dust cover and a good cap they are good at keeping the water out too. I have a missing advance spring on my prestolite dizzy or I'd be running it now instead of the holly points dizzy in there now.
 
I currently have 2 scouts with the prestolite dizzy, which are good units. One of them I know for a fact does not have a dust cover and the dizzy works just fine. At some point, I do plan on getting one. If the parts that you are looking for is not listed in the online store, feel free to call them up and ask. Not every thing they sell is posted on the web site.

The pertronix dizzy upgrade has always been one of the first upgrades I perform on my ole scouts. I have yet to find a need to spend the extra funds on the dui setup when there's other maintenance that needs attention first.

As others suggested, do away from the problematic carb. I have been watching this thread due to my possibility of doing the same for my yellow 72 Scout
 
As per the suggestions.

1. I have yet to find an accurate vacuum diagram based on a 2210c carb the only one I have avail is attached.
2. I found the vacuum line to brake booster in intake to be extremely loose, to the point it was barely sitting in the manifold. (is there a recommended thread sealant on items such as this?)
3. The divorced choke issue: attached is a pic of what I think the divorced choke is, can yawl confirm? Also, the butterfly valve on carb does not completely close, is this normal
 

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Your divorced choke has the op rod and bimetal coil, but no sheetmetal heat cover. The cover is important in making the coil function properly. It sounds like the coil isn't adjusted properly. When you push the gas pedal to the floor for a cold start, the choke plate should snap closed. The choke vacuum pulloff then cracks the choke plate open slightly during engine warm-up.

If you use a Holley #7448 carb, you'll need an air filter housing with a 5 1/8" hole in the base.

For the brake booster vacuum fitting, there should be a large threaded-in nipple on top of the left rear area of the intake manifold.
 
Do you by chance have the part number for the pertronix using the prestolite dizzy?

scooter said:
I currently have 2 scouts with the prestolite dizzy, which are good units. One of them I know for a fact does not have a dust cover and the dizzy works just fine. At some point, I do plan on getting one. If the parts that you are looking for is not listed in the online store, feel free to call them up and ask. Not every thing they sell is posted on the web site.

The pertronix dizzy upgrade has always been one of the first upgrades I perform on my ole scouts. I have yet to find a need to spend the extra funds on the dui setup when there's other maintenance that needs attention first.

As others suggested, do away from the problematic carb. I have been watching this thread due to my possibility of doing the same for my yellow 72 Scout
Click to expand...
 
Great thanks.

One last thing, concerning the 2210 with divorced choke, I cant seem to tweak the choke enough to shut the butterfly plate on carb.. There seems to be a mechanical something stopping it from shutting all the way. Also I am missing the cover for the choke, I hear it is important for proper operation? Suggestions??
 
I've already given you my suggestion. I don't have any more experience monkey fudging the choke on that model than you do. Perhaps someone else will have something more meaningful to offer you in that regard.
 
tewills said:
great thanks.

One last thing, concerning the 2210 with divorced choke, I cant seem to tweak the choke enough to shut the butterfly plate on carb.. There seems to be a mechanical something stopping it from shutting all the way. Also I am missing the cover for the choke, I hear it is important for proper operation? Suggestions??
Click to expand...

1. Engine off.

2. Disconnect the choke plate from the choke operating rod. Close the choke plate fully with your finger...does it close fully? If not, determine the reason and address accordingly. If yes, then re-connect the choke operating rod and close the choke plate fully...does it close fully? If not, adjust the choke operating rod accordingly to allow full closure.
The point here is to determine what exactly is the "mechanical something stopping it (choke plate) from shutting all the way."

3. Maybe you could take a photo of these actions and share with us???

4. Choke cover...you could make a cover from an aluminum can and tin snips. Or you could buy a new assembly. I would make a new cover myself and see how that worked out first.

5. You already have a prestolite electronic ignition, going to a pertronix electronic ignition is not an upgrade, in my opinion. If the prestolite in not working, then troubleshoot that issue and address it.

6. In the end, it is your money, spend it as you see fit as long as it fixes your issues and you are happy with the results.
 
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