Distributor slop?

Joseph509

Joseph509

New member
Hey guys, wish I could post my video but its too large for the server I guess. Long story short I pulled my distributor and the gear looks good but it has a little up and down play. It doesnt have any side to side movement as far as slop but it moves up and down a little other than that it spins nice and smooth. Is that up and down movement ok or nah? Reason I pulled it is because im having odd jumpy timing issues im trying to diagnose. Dizz is a Holley electronic on my 78. Thanks
 
Without having some type of measurement to quantify, it's difficult to offer much beyond broad speculation. I'm sure the factory service manual specs the amount of acceptable shaft play. As to your inability to post a video, that's likely due to the fact of your new member status. Picture and video posting capability is ramped down for new members for safety reasons as a result of too many spambots abusing the bandwidth. After you build some post count, that ability will get ramped up for you. Unfortunately it has to be this way.
 
Up and down movement is normal, however, timing jumps are typically caused by a gummed-up advance plate that hasn't been properly lubricated. To address this, remove the gauze oil material under the rotor. Please be careful when removing the "spider" clip underneath, as it is fragile and tends to break. Once the clip is removed, the advance arm assembly will slide off, then you to clean and lubricate the breaker plate.
If you find that the upper bushing is heavily worn, it likely indicates that the engine is missing the bushing in the block. This causes the cam to pull too hard downward on the shaft, which will cause damage.

Also, a Holley in 78' was not factory.

We also have new units: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/iheng-dist-hei.html?Category_Code=
 
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Zaedster said:
Up and down movement is normal, however, timing jumps are typically caused by a gummed-up advance plate that hasn't been properly lubricated. To address this, remove the gauze oil material under the rotor. Please be careful when removing the "spider" clip underneath, as it is fragile and tends to break. Once the clip is removed, the advance arm assembly will slide off, then you to clean and lubricate the breaker plate.
If you find that the upper bushing is heavily worn, it likely indicates that the engine is missing the bushing in the block. This causes the cam to pull too hard downward on the shaft, which will cause damage.

Also, a Holley in 78' was not factory.

We also have new units: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/iheng-dist-hei.html?Category_Code=
Click to expand...
Zaed is this the Holley? I always thought it was but maybe not? It has the little plastic electronic thing in it that goes to the silver box on my firewall (its a goldbox now, I switch with my 77). Btw now that ive unscrewed that little hall effect thing from the plate does that have to be gapped correctly or anything special or can I just screw it back in? BTW thank you and all the moderators and everyone for taking the time to helping noobs such as myself im dying to get my scout running good. Ive done soooo much grinding and welding but now I just wanna drive the damn thing!
 
Scoutboy74 said:
Without having some type of measurement to quantify, it's difficult to offer much beyond broad speculation. I'm sure the factory service manual specs the amount of acceptable shaft play. As to your inability to post a video, that's likely due to the fact of your new member status. Picture and video posting capability is ramped down for new members for safety reasons as a result of too many spambots abusing the bandwidth. After you build some post count, that ability will get ramped up for you. Unfortunately it has to be this way.
Click to expand...
Copy that. I think its ok, I handled some brand new distributors today and they all had basically the same movement. I had my 304 idling pretty good the other day and as I held a timing light on it I noticed it fluttering back and forth a little from advance to retard making it run like hell. This was after it warmed up. Starting it up it idles OK (still not perfect I might have a little vacuum problem as well) but its always had this same problem and its killing me. Im decent with engines, no professional mechanic or anything but ive pulled and stabbed my dizz 2x already to make damn sure im on compression stroke and my firing order is correct but I pulled it again thinking maybe a gear is messed up or something else idk 🤷‍♂️ 😅 My setup is a 78 with a 304. Holley 2300 I just put on new wires, plugs, pertronix flamethrower coil. And what I thought was a Holley distributor but maybe not.
 
Well if it has the remote amplifier on the firewall, often gold in color, then it is a Holley 'Gold Box' electronic igntion. The Hall effect sensors are probably supposed to have an air gap, but I don't know what that is.
 
What you have is a Holley Electronic Distributor as Trevor mentioned. Your Scout was most likely built in 77'. You're missing the gauze on top of the spider clip, which I can see. Your unit looks pretty clean. The magnetic pickup assemblies are rather 'problematic' only in the case that they are 50 years old with no replacement. They can have issues with heat, age...etc. Many people upgrade to a Pertronix Conversion System which is a 'hall affect' senor. They are a nice upgrade over your system. You would need a matching coil to pair with it. I would start with what I already mentioned about the lubrication and service of the advance plate system, reassembly and unhook your vacuum advance and measure your timing at idle and certain RPMS with a dial-back timing light to see if the timing is moving around. If it is moving around, your ignition system is likely to be at fault (your original mag. pickup assembly). I would consider a complete teardown of your unit, including the distributor drive gear, and clean everything and lubricate and reassemble. If you remove the drive gear, you need to note the orientation, as Holley units were hand drilled and the hole is not straight.

Edit: I didn't read you had already installed a Pertronix. I wouldn't rule out it being the problem UNTIL other avenues are checked.
 
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Zaedster said:
What you have is a Holley Electronic Distributor as Trevor mentioned. Your Scout was most likely built in 77'. You're missing the gauze on top of the spider clip, which I can see. Your unit looks pretty clean. The magnetic pickup assemblies are rather 'problematic' only in the case that they are 50 years old with no replacement. They can have issues with heat, age...etc. Many people upgrade to a Pertronix Conversion System which is a 'hall affect' senor. They are a nice upgrade over your system. You would need a matching coil to pair with it. I would start with what I already mentioned about the lubrication and service of the advance plate system, reassembly and unhook your vacuum advance and measure your timing at idle and certain RPMS with a dial-back timing light to see if the timing is moving around. If it is moving around, your ignition system is likely to be at fault (your original mag. pickup assembly). I would consider a complete teardown of your unit, including the distributor drive gear, and clean everything and lubricate and reassemble. If you remove the drive gear, you need to note the orientation, as Holley units were hand drilled and the hole is not straight.

Edit: I didn't read you had already installed a Pertronix. I wouldn't rule out it being the problem UNTIL other avenues are checked.
Click to expand...
Alright will do. Yeah its much cleaner than it was last weekend, I tore apart the easy stuff cleaned the plates everything else i could and painted it IH red cause I already had it. Any other advice on the tear down? I dont think I ever had that gauze but I don't think thats the end of the world. I'll tear it apart this weekend. Thanks boys
 
GAP is .008" minimum, .010" is OK and is between the reluctor wheel (shaft spline) and the Hall Effect sensor (plastic box thing).
You can adjust the gap via the hold down screw. Pull the rotor off for more clearance to work in.
Make your feeler gauge adjustment with all electrical power OFF.

Also, DO NOT check/test the Hall Effect Sensor with an Ohm Meter, ever. This will burn it out.
 
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This little post that holds the tension spring is kinda bent inward is that normal? The other one looks more straight up and down
 

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Zaedster said:
What you have is a Holley Electronic Distributor as Trevor mentioned. Your Scout was most likely built in 77'. You're missing the gauze on top of the spider clip, which I can see. Your unit looks pretty clean. The magnetic pickup assemblies are rather 'problematic' only in the case that they are 50 years old with no replacement. They can have issues with heat, age...etc. Many people upgrade to a Pertronix Conversion System which is a 'hall affect' senor. They are a nice upgrade over your system. You would need a matching coil to pair with it. I would start with what I already mentioned about the lubrication and service of the advance plate system, reassembly and unhook your vacuum advance and measure your timing at idle and certain RPMS with a dial-back timing light to see if the timing is moving around. If it is moving around, your ignition system is likely to be at fault (your original mag. pickup assembly). I would consider a complete teardown of your unit, including the distributor drive gear, and clean everything and lubricate and reassemble. If you remove the drive gear, you need to note the orientation, as Holley units were hand drilled and the hole is not straight.

Edit: I didn't read you had already installed a Pertronix. I wouldn't rule out it being the problem UNTIL other avenues are checked.
Click to expand...
I just have a Pertronix coil not the elect. Distributor unit which i just need to spring for i think and get rid of all this gold box crap
 
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