Apparently, we will leave it at that, am I missing it or what, removal and swap of front discs on 75 sct2, is there a post with details or picts , need my sct on the road soon and safely please help this ol hillbilly ,, I am tired of listening to the guys who know it all but have never touched an IH!!! Thanxs guys 1 fatman
disc swap?
- Thread starter 1fatman
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Mark Ashford
Member
What is your actual problem?
A 75 should have discs from the factory. If your just looking to do a brake job it should be pretty easy if you sit down and look at how it goes together.
A factory service manual would walk you through it, or even a chiltons/haynes book should give you a run down.
Very similar to early Ford 1/2 and 3/4 ton stuff.
A 75 should have discs from the factory. If your just looking to do a brake job it should be pretty easy if you sit down and look at how it goes together.
A factory service manual would walk you through it, or even a chiltons/haynes book should give you a run down.
Very similar to early Ford 1/2 and 3/4 ton stuff.
Was told had to pull hubs, bearing's, etc. To r&r the discs, .. Can't find my manual and don't want to spend the 100 bucks on new one , because then I'll find the old one !! Surely this isn't so ? Is there a post with picts? Got the po blues so bad! Trying to build her up right , as I luv my lil red! Appreciate your time and patience! Any body got a good condition used manual 4 my 75 2?
Mark Ashford
Member
Pull the locking hub (allen key set, 9/16" socket and wrench, snap ring pliers (external)).
Then you'll need to pull the caliper. Easy to do once you figure it out. First you'll need your allen's again, and pull the large-headed set screw that holds the slider on. Then if you look at it you'll see a wedge looking piece (cast metal) held up by a metal spring/bar. Use a punch and hammer, or I use a big slotted screwdriver and a hammer, drive the wedge piece inward, it will take the spring thing with it and drive all the way out of the caliper mount. Don't loose it, you'll need it to put it all back together. You should then be able to rock the caliper out/up.
You then need the proper socket/spanner for the spindle nuts on your wheel hub. Should be a big hex, 2-1/16" sticks in my brain, pretty common and available for old jeeps and scouts. There May be a bent "washer" over the outer hex nut acting as a lock. Clean it out and look in there. Use your punch and/or screwdriver again to flatten it out to remove the outer nut. It *should* be tight, so you might need some effort.
Remove the outer nut. Fish out the washer behind it (the one that was bent over), then remove the inner nut (should me much looser). There is one more washer in there, but it will usually come out with the outer bearing.
Grab the hub/rotor and pull out, the seal/inner bearing might be a little stuck, so it might take a good yank or two to pop it out. Careful however, the outer bearing likes to fly out when it lets go and fall in the dirt. Clean shop floor, not a real big issue, dirt pile... Well now you have to clean it real good if your not replacing it. Little duct tape, shop rag or your hand will catch it.
Now (carefully) drive the wheel studs out (use a punch on the center of the wheel stud, to avoid messing up the threads). You'll need a big hammer, I use a 5-lbs hand sledge. 5-studs out, rotor falls off.
Repeat to put it all back together.
Thats the quick and dirty that will get you through the basics. Assuming you have standard manual locking hubs and no one's monkeyed with it over the years.
Then you'll need to pull the caliper. Easy to do once you figure it out. First you'll need your allen's again, and pull the large-headed set screw that holds the slider on. Then if you look at it you'll see a wedge looking piece (cast metal) held up by a metal spring/bar. Use a punch and hammer, or I use a big slotted screwdriver and a hammer, drive the wedge piece inward, it will take the spring thing with it and drive all the way out of the caliper mount. Don't loose it, you'll need it to put it all back together. You should then be able to rock the caliper out/up.
You then need the proper socket/spanner for the spindle nuts on your wheel hub. Should be a big hex, 2-1/16" sticks in my brain, pretty common and available for old jeeps and scouts. There May be a bent "washer" over the outer hex nut acting as a lock. Clean it out and look in there. Use your punch and/or screwdriver again to flatten it out to remove the outer nut. It *should* be tight, so you might need some effort.
Remove the outer nut. Fish out the washer behind it (the one that was bent over), then remove the inner nut (should me much looser). There is one more washer in there, but it will usually come out with the outer bearing.
Grab the hub/rotor and pull out, the seal/inner bearing might be a little stuck, so it might take a good yank or two to pop it out. Careful however, the outer bearing likes to fly out when it lets go and fall in the dirt. Clean shop floor, not a real big issue, dirt pile... Well now you have to clean it real good if your not replacing it. Little duct tape, shop rag or your hand will catch it.
Now (carefully) drive the wheel studs out (use a punch on the center of the wheel stud, to avoid messing up the threads). You'll need a big hammer, I use a 5-lbs hand sledge. 5-studs out, rotor falls off.
Repeat to put it all back together.
Thats the quick and dirty that will get you through the basics. Assuming you have standard manual locking hubs and no one's monkeyed with it over the years.
Well managed to get exploded diagram of hub assembly , but don't have any torque specs, what should it be for the large hex , inner and outer ? And how about them 6 9/16 on the lock-a-matic hubs.. ? might as well throw in new inner and outer bearings, right ? what about the races ? replace or replace if needed ? with this torque info I should be able to proceed . please keep in mind I am planning on keeping her for the duration, how ever long that May be ! thanx again!!!!!!!!
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Locko-matics are a bitch to deal with. They use one, two, or three tiny set-screws in the perimeter of the outer "jam nut". You must back out those screws before attempting to remove the jammer...otherwise you will be really scruud.
You never replace the tapered roller bearings without replacing their races, they come as a set.
There is no torque specs for the hub bearings, there is a process for pre-loading and then backing off the inner adjuster nut slightly. Then the jammer locks the inner nut in place if it's still functional.
This information only applies to locko-matic locking hubs systems, it does not apply to convention locking hub/spindle sets that use two large lock nuts with a tab washer in between.
The locko-matic locking hubs must be used only with the companion hub bearing retaining components, that stuff does not interchange with the parts used for the full manual locking hubs.
You never replace the tapered roller bearings without replacing their races, they come as a set.
There is no torque specs for the hub bearings, there is a process for pre-loading and then backing off the inner adjuster nut slightly. Then the jammer locks the inner nut in place if it's still functional.
This information only applies to locko-matic locking hubs systems, it does not apply to convention locking hub/spindle sets that use two large lock nuts with a tab washer in between.
The locko-matic locking hubs must be used only with the companion hub bearing retaining components, that stuff does not interchange with the parts used for the full manual locking hubs.
Last edited:
Eric VanBuren
Member
The lock-o-matic is a unique animal and proper procedures must be followed when re-installing the drag shoe nut which doubles as the locking nut for the wheel bearing adjustment.
2 of the 3 set screws must enter the slotted washer. You should also use medium strength loctite, I prefer the stick version like was used originally.
To reinstall the drag shoe nut first remove the set screws, clean them and the nut thoroughly. Then apply a small amount of blue loctite to each set screw. Install the set screws until the dog point is flush with the flat side of the nut. After setting the bearing adjustment with the inner nut install the slotted washer. Then install the drag shoe nut snug just use your fingers or an awl in one of the spanner holes (not the set screw holes), do not "torque" it. Tighten the set screws, at least one will go in more than 1/8 -1/4 turn. If 2 of them go in at least 3/32" deeper than the other tighten all of them and you are good to go. If only one went in deeper back all of the off just enough so the nut can be turned. Then adjust the nut back and forth until you can get a second set screw to enter the washer. The one deeper set screw will limit how far it travels due to the slotted design of the special lock washer. Once 2 set screws are 3/32" deeper than the other tighten them fully and proceed with re-assembly.
You will need to wiggle and possibly use a little force to get the drag shoes to expand and fit over the drag shoe nut.
2 of the 3 set screws must enter the slotted washer. You should also use medium strength loctite, I prefer the stick version like was used originally.
To reinstall the drag shoe nut first remove the set screws, clean them and the nut thoroughly. Then apply a small amount of blue loctite to each set screw. Install the set screws until the dog point is flush with the flat side of the nut. After setting the bearing adjustment with the inner nut install the slotted washer. Then install the drag shoe nut snug just use your fingers or an awl in one of the spanner holes (not the set screw holes), do not "torque" it. Tighten the set screws, at least one will go in more than 1/8 -1/4 turn. If 2 of them go in at least 3/32" deeper than the other tighten all of them and you are good to go. If only one went in deeper back all of the off just enough so the nut can be turned. Then adjust the nut back and forth until you can get a second set screw to enter the washer. The one deeper set screw will limit how far it travels due to the slotted design of the special lock washer. Once 2 set screws are 3/32" deeper than the other tighten them fully and proceed with re-assembly.
You will need to wiggle and possibly use a little force to get the drag shoes to expand and fit over the drag shoe nut.