Compression check

Well I guess (alot) means different things to everybody. But while doing the compression test the number 6 cylinder was shooting fuel out of the plug hole. And when I drained the oil, it was so saturated with fuel that the viscosity was really thinned out. It wreaked of fuel.

The most this engine has ever run (after the overhaul) was initial starting and then a few times after that trying to get it to run smooth and idle. Which I could never get it to do. Hence frustration and then sitting for years.
 
It wouldn't be unheard of to have issues not only with your carb, but also with your fuel pump as Robert stated. I'd start upstream first. That pump should come off for close inspection and possible replacement.
 
slemmon said:
well I guess (alot) means different things to everybody. But while doing the compression test the number 6 cylinder was shooting fuel out of the plug hole. And when I drained the oil, it was so saturated with fuel that the viscosity was really thinned out. It wreaked of fuel.

The most this engine has ever run (after the overhaul) was initial starting and then a few times after that trying to get it to run smooth and idle. Which I could never get it to do. Hence frustration and then sitting for years.
Click to expand...

Blowing black smoke? Before the comp test, did you run it?
 
It has never blown black smoke, it was not running so not chance of that before the compression test. The last time I got it to so called run, it was blowing a light white to gray smoke. It stunk of fuel. And run like crap and sounded like it was only running on one bank or only a couple of cylinders.

So for the fuel pump, are you saying the fuel pump could be leaking into crank via the armature?
 
slemmon said:
So for the fuel pump, are you saying the fuel pump could be leaking into crank via the armature?
Click to expand...

Read this..... http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/1437-read-before-you-post-new-thread.html

Well, if you have an electric fuel pump and never offered a full description of your setup. The bad is on you for not doing so. You have also in not doing so, wasted the time of skilled and willing to help members of this form.

I you read my post I specifically mention "diaphragm leaking fuel". That infers that I/ we understand that you have the oem style mechanical fuel pump still attached the engine.


I'm checking out on this one. :icon_down:
 
Wow, that went south. Just asking questions here, geez.
So as per the link here ya go.
1) Scout II
2) 1979
3) 4x4
4) 727 & d300
5) d44 & d44
6) 304 with no smog pump
7) Holley points dizzy, Holley 2300 0-7448 350 cfm
8) mechanical fuel pump
9) disc's front and rear with hydroboost
10) SOA, reverse shackle
 
So now let's back to business. The float level setting on a Holley carb can be sensitve. Particularly with the after market parts in kits. To start with set the fuel level low. Then get it running and adjust it while running. If the oil level still rises change the fuel pump.
 
I just pulled the fuel pump as requested in previous posts. I have it held in my vise and as I actuate the lever you can hear and feel the the diaphram pushing air out the hose opening. I am going to try bench test it with water to test it to see if the diaphragm is leaking through the lever opening.
 
Alright, did a bench test of the fuel pump. It worked like it should and it did not leak out the armature hole. So I will reinstall it and start to progress from there.
 
I just remebered something form anothe forum (not which one). About the fuel pump arm having to be shaped a certain way. This is the one I have.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 217
Okay sounds good. I have re-installed it. #8 top dead center, dizzy stabbed, need to put rotor and cap on and run the wires. I am gonna use a spare gas can to run off of for now. I just need to remember how to wire the coil.
I think it goes like power wire to the positive, points to the negative, and the external condensor to the neg or pos?
 
Tdc on compression stroke right? Air puffed out of the spark plug hole? The piston will be at the top twice. Once on comp stroke and once on exhaust. Very easy to get your timing 180 degs off by missing that detail. Plug wires are routed in a clockwise fashion around the distributor. Yes, ign + source goes to coil + term. Did you gap your points? Do you have a ballast resistor or factory resistor wire to feed the coil? Breaker points need a resistive feed for protection. A stock coil should have @ 1.5 ohms of resistance across the pos/neg terminals. Then you need additional resistance either via a stock resistor wire or a porcelain ballast resistor of @ 1.5 to 1.8 ohm to give you a total of 3.0 to 3.2 ohm. Don't run a breaker points setup without the proper verified resistance or you'll cook the points and probably the coil too.
 
Yep, #8 on compression stroke, air puffed out. I have not gapped the points. What are the points gapped to? Ballast resistor or factory resistor wire? Not sure on that, how do I know?
When I tore this Scout down years ago there was a porcelin device that some one had put on the fire wall. I didnt know what it was for so I removed it.
The Scout has a new (Super Scout Specialists) wire harness. They made it from the the 1979 wire specs. So it will be wired for the gold box right? Does that take place of the resistor wire?
 
For points it depends somewhat on if they are old or new. What you're actually doing is setting the dwell angle. For a v8 engine, you want to be in the 28 to 32 degree range. This angle is measured with a dwell meter. With a new set of points I try to get as close to 28 degrees as I can. That way, as the rubbing block wears down and the point gap narrows, you have four degrees of closure before the points need to be adjusted again. Try .018 with your gap feeler gauge. That should get you reasonably close. The rubbing block needs to be resting on any one of the eight ridges on the cam wheel.

Yeah, your wiring harness will not have a resistor wire in it, so you'll need a ballast resistor, like the one that you tossed away years ago. But, before you go out and just purchase any old resistor, you need to find out what your coil primary resistance is. I said previously that a stock coil should be roughly 1.5 ohm, but I have no idea what coil you're using. This isn't something to guess at. Do you have a handheld multi-meter that will measure resistance in ohms?
 
Checked the gap and it is.015. Also the coil reads 1.7.

For the porcelain resistor block. Will the normal parts stores have them or will I need to go to a more specialized store.
 
Your dwell angle will probably be above 32 degrees with that gap, but that won't keep it from starting and running. It just won't be optimum. Any respectable parts store should have the correct ballast resistor. Ideally, you want one that ohms out between 1.3 and 1.5. Added to your 1.7 coil, that would give you that sweet range of 3.0 to 3.2. If the best they can do is 1.6 or 1.7, that will be okay. Go ahead and buy it.
 
Did some searching in my tool box and actually found the ballast resistor. I ohmed it out but it reads 2.4. So way to high. Would that have caused it to run bad or just make the coil or points burn out faster?

A local parts place has one, 1.3-1.4 @ 70 degrees.
 
Last edited:
Update, points gapped to .018, new cap and rotor installed, wires ran. Fuel lines connected. Ballast resistor installed also.

Problem, when I crank the engine, the fuel pump is not pulling fuel from the gas can into the carb. I have a clear fuel filter and it is empty. I disconnected the fuel lines at the pump and I checked to see if it was pushing air with my finger and I could feel a little air pushing on the one side but the other I could not feel any suction.

Did I install it wrong?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top