Changing gasket on tail housing

That sucks. Most likely the gasket is bunched, and or the bolts were over torqued. They should be torqued to no more than 12 ft/lbs. With a rubber or composite gasket you have to be selective about what you use for sealant. I do like to adhese my gaskets to the pan side whenever possible. One issue you have to contend with is the fluid mess and potential loss from taking the pan back off. That's another bummer, since fluid isn't exactly cheap. The habit I've gotten into now whenever I have a trans pan off for the first time, is I install a b & m drain plug kit so the next time I need to drain the fluid, at least I can get most of it collected in a much more controlled fashion. Sorry you're having so much trouble with this repair.
 
Sorry to hear about the troubles. It's been a few years since I have gone through the d-20 transfer case. So, I'm a bit hazy for the proper diagnostics on this. The last two d-20 cases I did was one being rebuilt with the tera low gear set and the other being a mild reseal. Along with both getting the twin stick treatment.
 
I torqued it methodically and patiently per spec in the fsm. I think it just must be bunched somewhere. Yeah, I'm pissed about my brand new fluid. That's just insult to injury. Where do I get one of those drain plugs? I wouldn't mind installing one.

By the way scooter, my case is a 300 which is close enough to a 20 but you mentioned a twin stick. I have read conflicting things about it. I read that you shouldn't run it in front wheel low becasue the case could get damaged. Is that bs? Why did you go with a twin v. Single? What advantages did you find? It seems to me that it would shift easier. I had a cj8 long ago and it had a single on the 300 so I don't have any experience there so any enlightenment would be appreciated.

Yes I am frustrated as this started out as a simple trans/t-case reseal but I am working by myself without anyone checking my work so I can't be too mad that it isn't going perfectly. I can at least say that it runs awesome now that I have my electric choke installed and adjusted. It cranks for about a second before it starts. At least I can put that part of the project aside.

I'll persevere and get it done. In the meantime, you guys can laugh at me for bumbling my way through it:smile5:
 
clhman said:
By the way scooter, my case is a 300 which is close enough to a 20 but you mentioned a twin stick. I have read conflicting things about it. I read that you shouldn't run it in front wheel low becasue the case could get damaged. Is that bs? Why did you go with a twin v. Single? What advantages did you find? It seems to me that it would shift easier. I had a cj8 long ago and it had a single on the 300 so I don't have any experience there so any enlightenment would be appreciated.

Yes I am frustrated as this started out as a simple trans/t-case reseal but I am working by myself without anyone checking my work so I can't be too mad that it isn't going perfectly. I can at least say that it runs awesome now that I have my electric choke installed and adjusted. It cranks for about a second before it starts. At least I can put that part of the project aside.

I'll persevere and get it done. In the meantime, you guys can laugh at me for bumbling my way through it:smile5:
Click to expand...

Oops. I over looked your sig of the 1980 Scout. Doh! Slap. I don't recall any conflicting issues with the twin stick modification or any stress on the case when in low range off the front shaft. I will need to look into it more. Besides, I don't think that I would want to drive highway speed just off the front shaft only, low or high range. Then again, I haven't tried it yet. Being able to shift the front and rear shafts independently does have a slight advantage when wheeling. One would be to do what's called a front dig, where one puts the rear shaft in neutral and use the front to pull the vehicle around an object, like a tree or boulder, instead of pushing. Word of caution though - not a good idea to have one shifter in high range while the other is in low range. That is what would cause issues with the transfer case. Kind of like miss matched gears in both axles. Again, I'll try and dig up some more info on the twin stick. I'm sure there are other more experienced gear heads that could explain it better than I did
 
I had a 73 Scout years ago, blew up the rear end, and put a replacement in from a junk yard. 4.10 gears or something tall like that. The front end was 3.73. Decided to drive down to palm springs from north of san fran. To save on gas money I pulled the rear drive shaft and just ran front wheel drive the whole way down there.....no problems!
 
Thanks for the info on the twin stick. I'll consider it. Right now I need to get the stupid thing to work first. I did look at the diagram carefully and it looks like I have the shims on the wrong side of the bearing. I think I can just take off the tail shaft housing instead of the whole case. That would save a lot of time. I'll be able to get into it next week and I'll update what I've found. Fingers crossed.

I'll go ahead and install a plug kit per your recommendation trever. I did a little research and found that some people complained about them leaking. Have you ever found that to be a problem?
 
Perhaps the occasional drip now and again. My rust piles are on rural property, so it isn't an issue for me...I still don't think it would bother me much even if they were parked on a paved surface. Binders Mark their territory. When they stop leaking, that's when you panic.:eek:

oh, and if you can manage to capture your fluid into a clean container, you can add it back in as long as it is free of contaminants. Might save you a few pennies there.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top