Carb Sputtering issue

Not to say the carb is not the issue but do a real simple check of both the mechanical and vacuum advance and make sure they are both properly working. Either one can cause a sputter or hesitation upon acceleration and both are very easily checked. Once you have confirmed that the distributor mechanical advance is not stuck or sticking and the vacuum advance is holding a vacuum then I would move onto the carb.
 
No, you can't cross-mojinate between the 2300 and 2210 models. They don't share any parts in common, as they are a completely different style of carb, though they are both made by Holley. Your approach to diagnosing the root cause of the issue should still be centered on ruling out simple causes first.

Obviously, you cannot monitor choke function while driving. That would be difficult and unsafe even if the hood were removed. You watch it while idling parked in your garage or driveway when you have 5-10 minutes of free time to dedicate to the process. I more or less described normal function in one of my previous posts, but I'll provide some additional description. When the engine is cold, one stab of the throttle should set the choke plate closed nearly all the way. When you engage the starter, the engine should light off within a few starter cranks and rapidly race up to a fast idle speed of approximately 1600 rpms +/- 100. This increased speed is necessary to help keep the cold engine running. As the thermal spring inside the choke mechanism warms, it begins to pull on the linkage rod, which in turn gradually begins to open the choke plate, while engine speed also gradually drops. After roughly 5 minutes of run time give or take, the choke plate should be viewed as fully perpendicular inside the air horn opening, with an equivalent air gap on either side of the plate. Engine speed should have also settled to a curb idle of roughly 650 rpms by this time. If you need assistance determining what's going on and you have access to a digital camera, you can post a pic of the choke plate just prior to starter engagement along with another after the engine has warmed. Pictures aid the cyber-diagnostic process greatly. In many cases they are a necessity.

The best source for a vacuum diagram would be found in a service manual for your Scout. They are available for purchase via the IH Parts America online store. If you plan on owning and tinkering on a Scout for any real length of time, it is a valuable resource to have available. In the mean time, if you are desperate with no recourse, I can scan and attach the diagram from a '74, which should have close enough if not identical vacuum hose routing as it deals with the same carb model.
 
Yes hooking the hoses up incorrectly could cause the problem. Try plugging of the egr hose and running it to see if that resolves the problem. The egr is the round device located behind and to the right of the carburetor on the intake manifold. Then try hooking the distributor vacuum advance unit directly to ported vacuum that should be located on the front of the carb near the bottom.
 
Scoutboy74 the choke plate does completely flatten out before I start the engine. After the 5 or so minutes the choke plate does open but not all the way open. It probably opens to about 60% to 70%. It doesn't open fully vertical.

Now say I have checked all the vacuum, choke, and any other things that might be causing this problem. What else could the issue be if those other things check you to be ok?
 
Sounds like it isn't opening all the way. Just to be sure, I'd like you to look at it again after you've gone for a drive and gotten the engine good and hot. Pop that canister off and see if it hasn't opened any further. If not, an adjustment needs to be made so that it will open fully. I think you've been given to verify and rule out for now. We can cross the "what if" bridge when/if we come to it.

One thing we should do is make proper id of your distributor. Originally, a '76 would have a Holley electronic ignition with remote module, more commonly referred to as a gold box due to the common color of the nodule which would be located on your driver side firewall. But, just in case someone has swapped in something else along the way, such as a points distributor it would be good to know. It always helps to have as much information about the components in play as possible. These rigs aren't all the same and parts do get swapped around like rockers swap girlfriends.
 
I ran the truck for about 20 to 30 minutes mostly at 55mph and higher. The bad news is that the choke valve didn't open any more then what I last told you.

I do have electronic ignition. I have replaced that gold box, distributor cap, plug wires, and the ignition coil over the years. I have been coming to believe that it might be the egr valve. It's the original one that was installed in 1976.
 
What's the benifits and disadvantages of using a egr block off plate? If I installed one of those would that stop that sputtering issue?
 
Well, the choke not opening fully May not be thee Problem, but it is a Problem that needs to be addressed. At best it is creating a low air to fuel ratio at cruise which hurts your mpg's. At worst it is making the engine fart and stumble too. If this thing is no longer subject to smog certification, I wouldn't hesitate to delete that egr and cap off the vac line. The only purpose that item serves is emissions management.
When you replaced the cap and plug wires, you were very careful in your wire routing, yes? Two wires where they ain't 'sposed ta be can give ya all kinds of headaches.
 
Ok so it seems like we have deduced that it's probably the choke not opening all the way. I hope that all it is. I was a little worried that it might be a compression thing. When I replaced the cap and plug wires I took off and replaced each wire one at at time.

I want to thank you and the others who helped me hopefully take care of this problem. If not then I will keep working at it. At least now I have a direction. So again thank you and until the next minor issue.
 
Might be jumping to a conclusion. No doubt your engine will be happier with a choke that can open fully when the engine is warm, regardless of whether or not the sputtering is gone. There were good leads suggested by others that are still worth pursuing. That's what we're here for. Most of us have had to deal with our fair share of vehicular issues. Please follow up with your results after you've adjusted the choke and gone for a drive.
 
I understand but I am not a mechanic. I do know how to fix an engine just not the major stuff. But if it turns out to be something bigger then I might try to either sell or junk the engine and trans. And replace them with a modern fuel injection engine and modern trans with overdrive.
 
I have 3 questions for you about this picture. The questions will be about the item circled. First what is it? Second, would this cause my sputtering issue? Third, does that stuff coming out of mean its broken?
 

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That's a deceleration control module. I don't believe it would cause your issue. You can eliminate it and cap off the vac lines with no harm done.
 
I wouldn't be so fast to just scrap what you have. Going high tech and modern is going to cost a lot of $$$$ and you will find they have their issues as well.

If you really want to go efi, bill hamilton and ihonlynorth have a really nice swap you can bolt on.

But getting back to your current problem, a lot of the issues you are having May well be due in large part to the fact you are trying to make a 2210 work. They were junk when they were new and rebuilding them doesn't improve them a lot.

A new 2300 would be a much better and cost effective swap.

You need to remember that ihc built iron was built with the idea that end users would be maintaining them. As a consequence they were designed relatively simply so that almost anyone could work on them and make them work well for very long periods of time.

The problems you describe are not big and the usual culprits have already been identified.

There is no reason to suppose that you can't get an ihc sv engine running well, even with a 2210.

Just go through the steps logically and eliminate the least expensive problems and easy fixes first before you start throwing $$$ at new parts and pieces.

And don't skip any steps along the way or you will discover you will have spent $$$ needlessly.
 
Every one has been telling me that the 2210 is junk. So I was looking at possibly getting a 2300 when I noticed something about the choke. Here are some pictures of my carb setup. And as you can see I have neither a manual or electronic choke. Its just some spring in a box. Maybe I'm wrong and it is manual, bit I don't have to deal with the choke from inside the car when I start it. So I guess my question is what type of choke do I have and can I get a 2300 to work on my engine? I know there is and electric choke conversion out there.
 

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That is known as a divorced automatic choke, which was pretty much the standard for the 22xx models installed on scouts. Yes, a Holley model 2300 list # 0-7448 is a very popular and workable swap for your application. About the only piece that will not work with that carb is your factory air filter canister. Reason being is the airhorn opening on the 2300 is 5 and 1/8th inches while the opening on your 2210 is 4 and 7/8ths inches. This is not a big deal as there stock canisters to fit the 2300 to be found as well as aftermarket filter solutions.
While I've already stated my dislike of the 2210, and freely admit to being a fan of the 0-7448, I'm not confident that enough diagnostics have been performed yet to justify a swap. I could get there quickly enough if I were satisfied that everything besides the carb was rock solid. It would suck to plop $350 down on a new carb only to have the engine still run like garbage because something else is wrong. Just sayin'...
 
Yes last time I'm going to say it. A $20 vacuum will tell you a ton of stuff about the condition and tune of your engine. Invest in information so you can make informed decisions.

My '74 Scout is still running the original 2210 carb. I've rebuilt it about 6 times and it runs like a dream. So they are an ok carb when working right.
 
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