Build Suggestions(?)

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IH-Parts-Ron

New member
'73 1110, 392, 727, 2wd, a/c, short bed step side, heavy duty drums all around, solid front axle, 3:83 rear end.

I'm tearing into a few problems; a few different oil leaks, sending salvageable components off to be powder coated, worn components being replaced, older components being upgraded where necessary, etc. My intake is heavily corroded, as well as the thermostat housing, upper radiator arm (?), water pump, housing and tubes. I flushed the system a few months back when I had the radiator out to be re-cored. This is when I pulled the thermostat and saw inside the intake, I was able to pull chunks of rust out by hand... My starter just went, so I ordered the high torque one as vapor lock is an issue. I just bought a 105 amp si-10 conversion kit, and the local alt. Shop wants $20 to install new bearings in the original case. I'd like to improve performance in the future, but I'm realistic as the current, stock, engine would need to be rebuilt to do so. I'm looking for your suggestions....


Should I spring for the rpt intake? And if so, is there an advantage to switching to a spread-bore?

Has anyone seen an aluminum version of the cast iron thermostat housing and cast iron upper radiator arm(?)?

Is there a better option for water pump housings? Perhaps different ones for different years that yield better flow or lesser weight?

Should I have the original afb carb rebuilt or get a new one?

Is there any harm in switching to non-vented valve covers?

I have a 700r4 adapter, is it worth it to switch transmissions?

I'd like a locking rear differential, suggestions?

Basically, my truck is good for burn outs and thumbs up, I've hauled some stuff, but its not my main goal. I'd like a donut making cruiser with original components wherever possible.:icon_razz:

'73 1110 - a set on flickr
 
On the intake there is a lot of meat on these, if it was mine I'd use what I've got.

IH used almost no aluminum on their engines.

Water pump flow is not an issue as long as the pump fits the housing properly, remember that the app for this engine was medium duty trucks. Also in the IH world there is so much cast iron under the hood that a few aluminum parts really won't make much of a difference.

The original carb for that engine is a Holley 4150g in 390 cfm. Anything larger really won't be used within the 3200 rpm red line of a 392.

The stock 727 was a pretty good trans. If you're going to spin donuts, put some sort of an electronic ignition with a rev limiter so you don't over rev it and bend the push rods or float the valves into the pistons.
 
Nice looking truck. The valve covers are proprietary. I don't know of anything aftermarket that will fit. The crankcase ventilation system serves an important function. Bypassing it would not be a good idea. A healthy 392 will rev comfortably past 3200 rpms...not much, but you can flirt with 4k so long as it isn't sustained. I've done it plenty of times. No bent or broken pieces. Engine still purrs like a kitty. There are some routine tuning tweaks you can do to optimize engine performance, but to really wake these shit-spreader engines up you've got to have a fat wallet and plenty of desire. Even with that, it will feel like you've moved heaven and earth just to get 275 horsepower while sacrificing the living hell out of the low end torque. It ain't worth it.
I wouldn't recommend a locker for a pavement-pounder. You've got a Dana 44 rear. A limited slip like a powrlok would be a better choice. Double check your gear ratio, because I think the number is actually 3.73.
 
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