Break not fitting

I took another look at your photo again and added some ideas.
Both springs should be the same. If one is week it can't compress the wheel cylinder.
The small one is what I remember and will have a higher spring rate. Having fluid in the cylinder will make it hard to compress. Loosen the bleed screw and try to push the top of the right hand shoe back. Most times the shoe you're pushing will go in and shove the other one out.

BRAKE NOT FITTING EDIT..jpg
 
I took another look at your photo again and added some ideas.
Both springs should be the same. If one is week it can't compress the wheel cylinder.
The small one is what I remember and will have a higher spring rate. Having fluid in the cylinder will make it hard to compress. Loosen the bleed screw and try to push the top of the right hand shoe back. Most times the shoe you're pushing will go in and shove the other one out.

View attachment 25396


I can order another return spring but. But ordered the springs in a kit. The idiot/bxxxh at napa told the the rear breaks could have had 7/8 wheel cylinder and I might have the bore size on the wheel cylinder. So I'm going to measure the old one and maybe try the 7/8 one
 
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The wheel cylinder diameter has nothing to do with it. This is a stroke issue.

Have you tried to push the wheel cylinder piston in on the right side? I do suspect this is a simple issue and easily over looked.

Lastly you are on IHPA asking us to suggest fixes to your problem and telling us that you are going to buy the parts to fix the problem from napa. Really?
 
the wheel cylinder diameter has nothing to do with it. This is a stroke issue.

Have you tried to push the wheel cylinder piston in on the right side? I do suspect this is a simple issue and easily over looked.

Lastly you are on IHPA asking us to suggest fixes to your problem and telling us that you are going to buy the parts to fix the problem from napa. Really?


I did when and same thing happened with a few pumps of the peddle. But this time not bad this time I adjusted the breaks out with the drum on so I just could hear the rub but could still turn by hand. Do you think the new wheel cylinder could be bad. When I opened the bleeder I can push the shoe back into place.


Here is a though is I popping out when I pull the drum off .


I went in for napa for gear oil. Figured I asked the old hag if she ever heard it went down the path of let look it up in the computer beside the oil break fluid I bought the parts from IHPA
 
I think the cylinder is ok. I think the return spring is light. The springs should pull the top of the shoes up against the center pin. Just open the bleeder while assembling.
The spring kit application is according to the diameter. All of the bendix brake applications I am familier with use the same return spring front and rear shoe.
 
I think the cylinder is ok. I think the return spring is light. The springs should pull the top of the shoes up against the center pin. Just open the bleeder while assembling.
The spring kit application is according to the diameter. All of the bendix brake applications I am familier with use the same return spring front and rear shoe.



Yes if open the bleeder I get it to sit fine it happen s after I close the bleeder and hit the brake with the drum on
 
Make sure you have the master cylinder backing off when you release the pedal. You should have a pedal return spring and some play when released.
 
I had to replace the master cylinder which started this adventure. I part of that was to replace the push rod not that goes to pedal when did this I did not see a spring on the pedal but I will look in at the pedal and look at the book. To see if lost a spring along the way.

I just want the thing fixed it is at the point that it is almost funny. I going to swap out the the wheel cylinder to see if that helps. Even if I get it working the next thing I have to do is hook the e brake cable up which was also screwing this up. I'm ready to roll it down a hill its so frustrating.
 
I definitely understand the frustration level. I've been there a few times my own damn self.
You are close, don't give up. :thumbsup:
 
So the shoe is still not fitting it's a lot closer. Now it's only sitting 1/8 of an inch off. If open the bleeder it pull it right in. So if hit the brakes a few times then pull the drum it's sits off just a little then I open the bleeder and it pulls it in so sits right. I'm think that it's hitting the block that post sits on or the mc is not letting all the fluid flow back in, could it be in the brake lines ? I just replace the mc and did not put the same one on but talked to a Jeff from this site told me it would work do I I really need a nos or an orginal mc. Please help ? Posted pics
 

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You have two long brake shoes on the same side of the axle.
Each side gets one long shoe and one short shoe.
 
Looks like there is definitely a shorter shoe on the right side of the pictures to me. Is it possible that there is a spot on the backing plate that the shoes rub on that has a burr, or is just worn funny that the shoe is hanging up on? Other thing I notice is the weird little oval spring on the bar that sits under the brake cylinder is missing a few coils. Not sure what this spring does, but do know that they do not come in any of the spring packs that I've seen. Nappa has them, would have to look up the part number, pretty sure I put it in one of my old posts somewhere, also have half a dozen at home I stocked up on. They were a buck or so each.
 
First the parking brake strut as it is called, spring is bad and available. It and the strut, are also in the wrong place. I marked up your photo to show where they go. Also a photo of the correct assembly.
The shoes are fine. The leading and trailing shoes are not supposed to be the same.

So again on to the shoe return defect.
1) the strut location could effect it
2) either the master is not adjusted right (most likely)
3) the return spring is wrong

PB Strut.jpg

DSCN0008%20(Medium).jpg
 
I will see if I can pick up some of those springs last time I was in napa they looked at me like I had 14 heads. I think I will just call IHPA on Monday to order some.

My question is how do you adjust the master cylinder by adjusting the push rod ? Or is there another adjustment. I'm missing.


Thanks fior the help I'm so close
 
Yes the pushrod is the adjustment. After getting the pedal return spring installed or verifying it is there and functioning, you need about 3/8 of pedal play at the foot pad.
 
Believe I got the p/n wrong in original post, dug up box with spares.
 

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So I think we figured it out there was one problem the mc I had the line hooked up wrong the back was going to front and the front to the back. So I swapped them and what found out was I had the wrong shoes. The top piece was rubbing on the backing plate so I cut them so the where the same as original breaks.

Thanks for all your helps buy. Next on to wiring.
 
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