Break not fitting

Icefyre sorry for the type-o....I have the other side on and is working. I don't know why the right side is not working. That is why I'm asking for help. Is there a real difference if you adjust them with the drum on or off. If you adjust them out and then slip the drum over?
 
If the other side is done and working, I'd snap a picture of it, blow it up, then sit down and carefully look at the bad side and compare it to the picture in front of me. Don't see how you can adjust the brakes so that they are just dragging on the drum without the drum installed. Seems your almost at the point where you need to drink several beers until you are as messed up as the brakes, then you can relate to them better, and might see the problem.:icon_stressed:
 
Well just for grins, have you checked and or changed the wheel cylinder? If the pistons in the wheel cylinder are stuck open you May have the problem described. Wheel cylinders should be replaced or rebuilt anytime you change the shoes.
 
well just for grins, have you checked and or changed the wheel cylinder? If the pistons in the wheel cylinder are stuck open you May have the problem described. Wheel cylinders should be replaced or rebuilt anytime you change the shoes.


Well I put a new cylinder on when started this project and im going to buy a new one and try it.
 
I took another look at your photo again and added some ideas.
Both springs should be the same. If one is week it can't compress the wheel cylinder.
The small one is what I remember and will have a higher spring rate. Having fluid in the cylinder will make it hard to compress. Loosen the bleed screw and try to push the top of the right hand shoe back. Most times the shoe you're pushing will go in and shove the other one out.

BRAKE NOT FITTING EDIT..jpg
 
I took another look at your photo again and added some ideas.
Both springs should be the same. If one is week it can't compress the wheel cylinder.
The small one is what I remember and will have a higher spring rate. Having fluid in the cylinder will make it hard to compress. Loosen the bleed screw and try to push the top of the right hand shoe back. Most times the shoe you're pushing will go in and shove the other one out.

View attachment 25396


I can order another return spring but. But ordered the springs in a kit. The idiot/bxxxh at napa told the the rear breaks could have had 7/8 wheel cylinder and I might have the bore size on the wheel cylinder. So I'm going to measure the old one and maybe try the 7/8 one
 
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The wheel cylinder diameter has nothing to do with it. This is a stroke issue.

Have you tried to push the wheel cylinder piston in on the right side? I do suspect this is a simple issue and easily over looked.

Lastly you are on IHPA asking us to suggest fixes to your problem and telling us that you are going to buy the parts to fix the problem from napa. Really?
 
the wheel cylinder diameter has nothing to do with it. This is a stroke issue.

Have you tried to push the wheel cylinder piston in on the right side? I do suspect this is a simple issue and easily over looked.

Lastly you are on IHPA asking us to suggest fixes to your problem and telling us that you are going to buy the parts to fix the problem from napa. Really?


I did when and same thing happened with a few pumps of the peddle. But this time not bad this time I adjusted the breaks out with the drum on so I just could hear the rub but could still turn by hand. Do you think the new wheel cylinder could be bad. When I opened the bleeder I can push the shoe back into place.


Here is a though is I popping out when I pull the drum off .


I went in for napa for gear oil. Figured I asked the old hag if she ever heard it went down the path of let look it up in the computer beside the oil break fluid I bought the parts from IHPA
 
I think the cylinder is ok. I think the return spring is light. The springs should pull the top of the shoes up against the center pin. Just open the bleeder while assembling.
The spring kit application is according to the diameter. All of the bendix brake applications I am familier with use the same return spring front and rear shoe.
 
I think the cylinder is ok. I think the return spring is light. The springs should pull the top of the shoes up against the center pin. Just open the bleeder while assembling.
The spring kit application is according to the diameter. All of the bendix brake applications I am familier with use the same return spring front and rear shoe.



Yes if open the bleeder I get it to sit fine it happen s after I close the bleeder and hit the brake with the drum on
 
Make sure you have the master cylinder backing off when you release the pedal. You should have a pedal return spring and some play when released.
 
I had to replace the master cylinder which started this adventure. I part of that was to replace the push rod not that goes to pedal when did this I did not see a spring on the pedal but I will look in at the pedal and look at the book. To see if lost a spring along the way.

I just want the thing fixed it is at the point that it is almost funny. I going to swap out the the wheel cylinder to see if that helps. Even if I get it working the next thing I have to do is hook the e brake cable up which was also screwing this up. I'm ready to roll it down a hill its so frustrating.
 
I definitely understand the frustration level. I've been there a few times my own damn self.
You are close, don't give up. :thumbsup:
 
So the shoe is still not fitting it's a lot closer. Now it's only sitting 1/8 of an inch off. If open the bleeder it pull it right in. So if hit the brakes a few times then pull the drum it's sits off just a little then I open the bleeder and it pulls it in so sits right. I'm think that it's hitting the block that post sits on or the mc is not letting all the fluid flow back in, could it be in the brake lines ? I just replace the mc and did not put the same one on but talked to a Jeff from this site told me it would work do I I really need a nos or an orginal mc. Please help ? Posted pics
 

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