Break Drum stuck?
- Thread starter zcarhide
- Start date
jeff campbell
Active member
Is this a Dana 44 flanged axle ? If it is, did you back off the brake shoes ? You need to heat an beat it. Get good an hot around the lug's. Get p-oil in the studs,and around the axle hub that fits thru the drum, it'll be very tight,bout like its made on there. Or if it's the tapered hub/axle like on a d-27, rear, best to pull the whole axle shaft assembly out w/backing plate. All 1 piece, then put in a press. Or stand it up on end, hub up, an soak it w/ good p-oil for a few day's, then press it out.Jeff
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Yes I believe it is a 44. When pulled the other side off the studs and the drum came off together and looked as they where one piece and called your shop yesterday and talked with some and said what have is older drum that was swedged(not spelled right) together and when I buy the new drum I will have get it unswedge?
But with that being said I think there are 4 bolts that the drum are covering up that I would have to pull to get axle to pulled out. Or if disconnect everything the break lines ebrake line... And pull the axle pin will the whole thing come up back plate and breaks and all.
But with that being said I think there are 4 bolts that the drum are covering up that I would have to pull to get axle to pulled out. Or if disconnect everything the break lines ebrake line... And pull the axle pin will the whole thing come up back plate and breaks and all.
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For rusted out junk drums I sometimes break them up with a sledge. It only takes a few minutes. Just don't bend the backing plate or damage the threads.
For rusted out junk drums I sometimes break them up with a sledge. It only takes a few minutes. Just don't bend the backing plate or damage the threads.
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Don't what?
Get the right puller tool! I don't see how you can get to the backing plate nuts with the hub still on. The newer style flanged axles have a hole in the flange to put a socket through.
Your drums probably are swaged to the flange.
A good drum is rare as hen's teeth, don't break it up. You'll know if it's good or not after you get it off in one piece.
Your drums probably are swaged to the flange.
A good drum is rare as hen's teeth, don't break it up. You'll know if it's good or not after you get it off in one piece.
jeff campbell
Active member
Doubt you need a new drum, let us see it, the part you broke. Jeff
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Missed this thread but here is the way to get these stuck east coast old tapered axle drums off..
Leave the axle flange nut on and tight. There is no way to remove the axle flange hub from the tapered axle with the drum attached without destroying something.
1) file, sand or, wire brush the diameter where the drum is located on the hub. The rust that builds on the pilot diameter will stop any attempt to slide it off..
2) soak the pilot diameter and stud protrusion real good with your favorite penetrating oil.
3) apply heat from a propane torch to the drum right around the pilot diameter just inside the stud circle.
4) with a soft mallet or similar tap/rap firmly, the outer diameter of the drum, 12 and 6 then 9 and 3 over and over. Don't beat it so hard you will damage it or bend it. It takes quite a hard beating to do that with a soft mallet. I have also just focused on 9 and 3. Continue until you get some movement. The drum will eventually begin to rock on the pilot diameter. Keep rocking until you can wiggle it by hand.
5) at that time you should be able to work it off or carefully with a large puller remove the drum by grabbing the outer edge.
Leave the axle flange nut on and tight. There is no way to remove the axle flange hub from the tapered axle with the drum attached without destroying something.
1) file, sand or, wire brush the diameter where the drum is located on the hub. The rust that builds on the pilot diameter will stop any attempt to slide it off..
2) soak the pilot diameter and stud protrusion real good with your favorite penetrating oil.
3) apply heat from a propane torch to the drum right around the pilot diameter just inside the stud circle.
4) with a soft mallet or similar tap/rap firmly, the outer diameter of the drum, 12 and 6 then 9 and 3 over and over. Don't beat it so hard you will damage it or bend it. It takes quite a hard beating to do that with a soft mallet. I have also just focused on 9 and 3. Continue until you get some movement. The drum will eventually begin to rock on the pilot diameter. Keep rocking until you can wiggle it by hand.
5) at that time you should be able to work it off or carefully with a large puller remove the drum by grabbing the outer edge.
Not always so. Shop practice, and as indicated in the manual, shows they can come off together. Many times if the drum was not previously removed from the hub, (as from when it was new), it will have been swaged to the hub via the wheel studs. When the proper puller is used, the hub/drum will come off safely together. Then if the drum is to be changed, the swaging is cut and then it will come off. If it is stuck at the piloting bore, then yes some heat and penetrant are needed, and works easiest on the bench. There was a swaging cutter tool you used that slipped over the studs to cut the little ridge around the stud. In place of that a 5/8" hole saw can work if done reel careful
