I am running the stock give blade cooling fan with aluminum radiator for n my scout and going down the road it cools just fine. But when I'm crawling around up in the hills and it's over 100° with no wind blowing through the radiator I can hear the coolant boiling in the heater core. Is there a clutch fan setup that fits the tight space between the water pump and the radiator?
Best engine cooling fan for v-8 scout 800...
- Thread starter 68scout
- Start date
You can't fit a clutch fan in a Scout 800. You shouldn't be having tremendous cooling issues. If you are, sounds like something is wrong. I would start to be concerned over 220. A fan clutch would make the cooling worse. You should check your radiator and block and flush them out good by pooping the freeze plugs out.
Why Thank you sir. My temp. Gauge does not have actual temps on it, but when it goes to the top of the range and I can hear coolant boiling in my heater core at extremely slow speed that tells me she's getting pretty hot. I have the aftermarket aluminum radiator for the v8 scout 800 and it works great when I am making some wind with forward movement. I have the five blades fan from the stock four blades unit. Would it be worth trying a six or should I try electric?
Winchested
Active member
You should do like he mentioned and make sure the block is clean. Flush it with a Chemical flush and see if it gets better. If not like he mentioned pull the core plugs out of the sides of the block and get in there with a pressure washer. (Dan Hayes at binder boneyard did a podcast all about this)
Make sure you have a Robertshaw thermostat installed. Not a gnereic parts store thermostat.
Run a 13 lb rad cap.
Make sure you have a fan shroud.
Make sure you have a Robertshaw thermostat installed. Not a gnereic parts store thermostat.
Run a 13 lb rad cap.
Make sure you have a fan shroud.
Winchested
Active member
Then thermostat would be my first bet. If the blocks been cleaned out before its likely fine then. Dan mentioned the factory likely didn't clean them very well and casting sand etc stayed in them.
I know Scott Stroud had posted a couple different modern fan options over at binder planet. If yours is 18" fan may work.
I had a 345 run upper 220's for years until I did a stock rebuild (stock size pistons) and after I had pressure washed every casting hole of the block, it ran cooler (180-190 on the hottest days). Tons of metal, casting flash and sand came out. As stated, a 13lb cap is the required cap for your application.
Might want one of these: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/iheng-tstat.html?
Gaskets: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/iheng-gask-tstat.html
Might want one of these: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/iheng-tstat.html?
Gaskets: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/iheng-gask-tstat.html
You mentioned flushing my cooling system with a chemical flush. What exactly does that consist of? When I bought this thing in 1996 I saw the means to attach a garden hose on one the heater hoses to flush the cooling system. Would just flushing with water work for a basic flush or would it be significantly better to use something else? This block was boiled in the late nineties when we rebuilt the engine. For quite a while it was my daily driver but after I got married and got a job with a twenty-five mile commute each way and the price of gas has gone up so much I can only afford to use the scout if we get a real winter. But I like to be able to go horse around in the hills on occasion as well when it's hot outside and that should not be a problem for the scout with its five blades fan and three core radiator.