Best Brakes

O

ohiotraveler

New member
Ok, newbie here to IH. Just acquired a 1976 traveler. V304, auto 4x4 with electronic ignition. Should be disc up front and rear drums but I will confrim. Very good condition other than years of az dust. I have a few bugs to dig into yet but looking at fixing versus just going for better. Currently the pedal goes well to the floor with very little stopping power so a little effort to check: bleeding, soft lines, old pads, etc first....

I have been reading as fast as my eyes will go. Most threads are " I have issue x, do I do y or z?"

***I am curious how good or what are the best options to upgrade the brakes. Not after corvette stopping power, but are the conversions to rear discs worth anything for stopping power? Or GM upgrades for the front.

***and the pedal stepover is strange with the gas pedal very high and the brake very low. I have noticed in pics by others the same arrangement. please confirm this is normal or a symptom.
 
The stock brake system, when in good shape, is adequate for most situations. While towing my Scout brakes have faded a few times on major hills. Currently the Scout is running a set of ebc suv pads that I like a lot as they seem to grip better the hotter they get. Slotted rotors, which you can buy here, would be the next step in upgrades. Rear disc is another option that is also available here but the fronts do 70% of the braking.
 
Pic of pedals. Brake sits about 3/4 inch lower when at rest. Typical is opposite (safety feature so can always reach brakes when seat is adjusted for accel pedal. Called lift over) engine off, the pedal is immediately firm. Once running, pedal travels 1+ inch before brakes start to do anything. Also, mostly unrelated is the dash light for the brake is on always. Due to brake controller??? Or short?? Might be my electrical issue root cause. Still debugging that problem.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160907_190326907_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160907_190326907_HDR.jpg
    37.5 KB · Views: 841
ohiotraveler said:
ok, currently the pedal goes well to the floor with very little stopping power so a little effort to check: bleeding, soft lines, old pads, etc first....


***and the pedal step over is strange with the gas pedal very high and the brake very low. I have noticed in pics by others the same arrangement. please confirm this is normal or a symptom.
Click to expand...

I would not be concerned with the brake pedal height until the brake system has been completely repaired, bled and is working properly. Then the brake pedal should be at normal height above the floor due to those corrective actions.
If not, then That pedal height issue can be addressed.

The brake warning light is on due to the brake hydraulic system not being in proper working condition. There is a pressure switch in the brake proportioning valve that trips when brake pressures get out of proper relationship. It should be reset during the brake repairs that your Scout II is in dire need of.

Note: the brake warning light also indicates when the parking brake is set.
 
Thanks, I'd checked the park brake switch, cables etc to see it was not hung up. I'll get the brakes working right first.
 
This is a hydroboost system. It will put you through the windshield. Jeff has a kit on the site, or you could piece it together.
It sound like your truck has languished a while and the m/c has lost its seal. They are cheap enough, and Jeff has them new, as well as hoses. No sense cutting corners on brakes. The stock disc/drum system is totally fine if your booster, m/c and other bits are up to snuff.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0668.jpg
    IMG_0668.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 864
Hydroboost is the way to go. It makes a total difference, when you mash the brakes the Scout will stop! And if you stall the brakes will still work pretty well too.
 
Once running, pedal travels 1+ inch before brakes start to do anything.
Click to expand...

Before much is spent on "upgrades" and "fixits", it is very wise and thrifty to go back to basics. No1. A service manual is a great help. While all vehicles share similar brake design; IH has had some differences in their service depending on the model and platform. Get familiar with what is there.

No.2 basic service goes a long way. Are the brake shoes, cables, and such all adjusted to spec? Long pedal travel can easily be shoes out of adjustment and a long stroke is many times related to a wide distance the shoes travel to contact the drums.

We aren't there, we can't see. But a service manual, and actual descriptions of what you see and feel go a long way to saving money instead of spending it on "hail marys".

Chappie has good advice. They don't come broke from the factory. Unless you have plans outside the original oem specifications, they work just fine.
 
All a hydro-boost does is give help pressing the pedal. If the engine stalls it needs to be spinning for the hydro-boost to work, if spinning it will also make vacuum too. However vacuum assist will hold enough vacuum for an application of the brakes or 2. Does hydro do that if a belt breaks?
 
wagonwheel said:
anybody put hydro boost brakes on a 60s travel all?
Click to expand...

We recently did on a 1968 1100 4x4 pickup. We also installed at the same time 4 wheel disc brakes. Couldn't tell you how well it stops as we have yet to drive it on public roads as we are waiting for proof of insurance on the truck.
 
fdchappie said:
However vacuum assist will hold enough vacuum for an application of the brakes or 2. Does hydro do that if a belt breaks?
Click to expand...

Yes.
The hydro-boost has an accumulator that will give you some reserve braking after engine shut down, similar to the vacuum booster.
The accumulator is the round cylinder adjacent to the reservoir. It automatically charges/recharges with pressurized fluid as long as there is hydraulic pressure being provided from the ps pump.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top