Adjusting fan shroud alignment

B

Bob Prohaska

Member
'72 Scout II, 4x4, v345, ps, pb, at, ac, stock.

[I can't find a thread anywhere on replacing stock engine mounts for a v345. All my search attempts
drew either a blank or irrelevant hits. If this question has been answered already pointers much appreciated!]

It looks like the engine is sitting a bit low, based on the centering of the fan in the shroud. Since the radiator
is out, it seemed like a good idea to try shimming the engine mounts to give a bit more clearance, say, an
extra eighth or quarter inch. However, the studs on the isolators are a good inch and a half long, top and
bottom. That implies I'll have to lift the engine at least three inches to get them out, or maybe two inches
to find space enough to fit washers over the lower studs.

I tried lifting the front of the engine using a jack under the front well of the oil pan, but it seemed to take
a lot of force and I was worried about either denting the pan or allowing the engine to twist the rear
mount, which I don't want to damage, even if there's enough vertical clearance in places I can't see.
I'll have to lift with a jack, no hoist in my garage.

For the moment it's tempting to put the radiator back and leave well enough alone. If there's a better-
informed approach I'd be grateful for guidance. It looks like the fan will scuff the shroud eventually.

Thanks for reading,

bob prohaska
 
Sounds like you need new engine mounts. When the fan shroud clearance decreases like this, it is usually caused by the engine mounts being worn out. Fresh body bushings makes the distance even worse.
 
ihpartsjeff said:
Sounds like you need new engine mounts. When the fan shroud clearance decreases like this, it is usually caused by the engine mounts being worn out. Fresh body bushings makes the distance even worse.
Click to expand...

Is either section of the oil pan strong enough to support the engine?
Is it necessary to brace the engine against tilting side-to-side?
New mounts or old, I still have to lift the engine without breaking
anything...

Thanks for writing!
 
I don't remember how the engine was lifted when I did mine. The pan is pretty stout. I think I put a piece of wood across it and jacked it up.
 
Unbolt the fan shroud and let sit on fan. Loosen/take the 2 nuts off bottom of trans mount. Take the 3 nuts off each motor mount. Jack up the engine under the crank pulley (leave belts on) until enough clearance to take out old mounts. I use a floor jack and some different 2x4’s and blocks to position them up between drag link and tie rod to get directly under crank pulley. Easy Peasy. Done it many times.
 
ScoutBurton said:
Unbolt the fan shroud and let sit on fan. Loosen/take the 2 nuts off bottom of trans mount. Take the 3 nuts off each motor mount. Jack up the engine under the crank pulley (leave belts on) until enough clearance to take out old mounts. I use a floor jack and some different 2x4’s and blocks to position them up between drag link and tie rod to get directly under crank pulley. Easy Peasy. Done it many times.
Click to expand...

Ok, now we're getting somewhere. Fan, shroud and radiator are all out.
Pulling the nuts off the trans mount should be easy, I hope the exhaust
has enough give. Didn't think about that until just now 8-(

Lifting on the crank pulley leaves the engine free to flop left or right; what stops it?
Is there another mount to the side, maybe on the transfer case? I'll look, of course,
but looking and finding are two different things :cool: so it helps to know what to look for.
A jack and blocks under the pan seem a bit more stable tipping-wise, but I don't want
to bend the pan.

Thanks for writing!

bob
 
The wood has enough give and let’s the crank pulley “sink” into it and cradle it, not allowing it to move side to side and just go straight up. The oil pan is too thin and prone to bending in my opinion. Don’t worry about unhooking any exhaust. The engine, trans, t-case, and exhaust are all lifted as one unit. The only real things to watch out for usually are the radiator hoses and fan clutch to radiator clearance, but that’s not an issue for you right now.
 
ScoutBurton said:
The wood has enough give and let’s the crank pulley “sink” into it and cradle it, not allowing it to move side to side and just go straight up. The oil pan is too thin and prone to bending in my opinion. Don’t worry about unhooking any exhaust. The engine, trans, t-case, and exhaust are all lifted as one unit. The only real things to watch out for usually are the radiator hoses and fan clutch to radiator clearance, but that’s not an issue for you right now.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the details. The shims are in, now waiting for radiator hoses.
I got away with lifting on the front part of the oil sump using a soft wood block with a
hole that fit nicely around the drain bolt. No obvious damage to the sump, but there is
a very considerable dent in the wood. That engine is heavy! Jeff's right, the mounts have
sagged to the point the upper cup chewed into the frame tabs. There's about a quarter
inch of clearance now, I wonder if it'll be noticeably smoother.....

It'd be worth new mounts if I drove it more, but it only goes a couple thousand miles per
year at most and hasn't seen dirt in decades. All it has to do is run.....

Thanks to all for reading and replying!

bob prohaska
 
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