Hello my name is kelsey and I just bought my first International from a friend for 700 dollars. My overall plans are to swap out the 345 motor for a cummins 12 valve and 5 speed tranny. Fix some minor dents and rust, paint the interior and exterior, lift it 6 inches with 37 inch tires. As of now the only thing I have done is put in a heavy duty Dana 44 and a 14 bolt rear. I've only painted a few things and and I have never done any body works so it's going to be a challenge in that department, but everything else should be pretty straightforward. I'm a wildland firefighter for the u s forest service so I will post as I can throughout the summer. I hope to have it finished by a year, but we all know how that goes.
73 1210 crew cab restoration,
- Thread starter klofdahl
- Start date
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Welcome kelsey. Suthern orygun huh...I think I know that truck. Was it a.j.'s?
FDChappie
Well-known member
Ah a forest circus guy, I'm a volunteer ff in hopland, CA. Welcome to the board. I have a '71 travelette with a 345 5 speed in good original condition. I've been planning a 4x4 conversion on it, but other things seem to take priorities. That looks like a nice truck enjoy.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
I thought so. It was a case of putting two and two together. I've been on a couple wheeling trips with him over the years, and I traded him some full size body parts for some sii body parts a few years ago.
Just a quick up date. I have purchased a 1989 dodge cummins 4 wheel drive with a 727 tranny. Came with 150,000 miles no intercooler and 306 gears. Also picked up a set of 37 inch hummer take offs, and looking for some 6 inch Chevy lift springs for the front of the International. I've also been pricing out some fenders hood and door panels from my local junk yard with some outrageous prices. Might roll with a few dents for a while. Will be getting laid off from work in about 2 weeks and and let the swap begin will be posting pictures as I go.
Took off the front clip, along with the motor tranny and t-case, also removed the steering colume and brake booster in hopes of using the parts off the dodge. Going to pick up some 3/16 plate to either box or fishplate the frame and to make some possible crossmember mounts.
But thats kinda were im stuck now is how im going to actually mount the motor and tranny to the frame??? Sure ill figure it out when the time comes
But thats kinda were im stuck now is how im going to actually mount the motor and tranny to the frame??? Sure ill figure it out when the time comes
Attachments
mikeindustries
Member
This is going to be a kick a$$ rig when done. Welcome
Well, I had a change of heart on the cummins swap. Instead I swapped the cab of the International on to the dodge frame. I just figured the dodge frame was developed for for more torque and it might be less work to swap the cab intead of the motor, boxing the frame, new leafs in the front, drivelines shorten and lengthen, sure there are a few others I cant think of that in the end would equal more time and money in part.
As of now I have the cab on the frame and wouldnt ya k now it wasent that easy... But the cost is down for exeption of one part, the steering shaft. As I dropped the cab on the dodge frame I found that I had to lift the front of the cab about 5'" because the International frame is long and flat and the dodge frame "standard cab" has a substantial dip and raise between the front and back of the cab, go figure. So I ended up with a pretty steep steering shaft angle and couldnt connect the shaft to the box. So I bought a $250 borgeson steering shaft with u-joints on both ends, which im currently waiting for. The master cylinder as of now is in the hood and some fabrication is needed but should work (using dodge master cylinder). Next problem was the stock dodge fuel tank sender and crossmember. Because I wanted the cab as low as possible in the front I put the back of the cab 1" from the frame rails which is were the sender and crossmember sat. So I hacked off the crossmember and bolted on a strait peice of channel acrossed the frame and dropped the tank low enough to clear the cab, sorry no pics of that process.
Another problem I ran into was that in order to center the tires in the fron wheel wells I had to put the cab further back on the frame than I wanted. By moving the cab back I placed the radiator on the outside of the center section which included lot of trimming and mesuring, I hope it clears the grill! Whch is going to be a one off expanded metal mesh style grill.
So as of now im waiting for the steering shaft, and cant attatch the master cylinder until that is complete due to clearance problems, then I can bolt on the driver side panels, finish the center section, and the wiring, and put in a temporary floor shifter cause I dont want the auto. Turn key and hopefully drive the sob.
Then after running I have a lot of dent to pull and fill, paint interior and extirior, new gauges, put on the 4" exhaust I just orderd, and build a new flat bed. And questions feel free, I can post whatever pics wanted
As of now I have the cab on the frame and wouldnt ya k now it wasent that easy... But the cost is down for exeption of one part, the steering shaft. As I dropped the cab on the dodge frame I found that I had to lift the front of the cab about 5'" because the International frame is long and flat and the dodge frame "standard cab" has a substantial dip and raise between the front and back of the cab, go figure. So I ended up with a pretty steep steering shaft angle and couldnt connect the shaft to the box. So I bought a $250 borgeson steering shaft with u-joints on both ends, which im currently waiting for. The master cylinder as of now is in the hood and some fabrication is needed but should work (using dodge master cylinder). Next problem was the stock dodge fuel tank sender and crossmember. Because I wanted the cab as low as possible in the front I put the back of the cab 1" from the frame rails which is were the sender and crossmember sat. So I hacked off the crossmember and bolted on a strait peice of channel acrossed the frame and dropped the tank low enough to clear the cab, sorry no pics of that process.
Another problem I ran into was that in order to center the tires in the fron wheel wells I had to put the cab further back on the frame than I wanted. By moving the cab back I placed the radiator on the outside of the center section which included lot of trimming and mesuring, I hope it clears the grill! Whch is going to be a one off expanded metal mesh style grill.
So as of now im waiting for the steering shaft, and cant attatch the master cylinder until that is complete due to clearance problems, then I can bolt on the driver side panels, finish the center section, and the wiring, and put in a temporary floor shifter cause I dont want the auto. Turn key and hopefully drive the sob.
Then after running I have a lot of dent to pull and fill, paint interior and extirior, new gauges, put on the 4" exhaust I just orderd, and build a new flat bed. And questions feel free, I can post whatever pics wanted
Just an fyi, I have a lot of room between the cab and motor, and if I wanded to spend the time and money it would have been an easy fit under the hood, I know that is a big question who think about this swap, also dont buy just a motor and tranny, try and get the whole truck, there are so many parts on the frame and cab you can use...
Food for thought
Food for thought
Sledgehammer
New member
Looking good 
nice build and pics.
nice build and pics.Thanks guys, I unfortunately I feel like it was a small success, its nice to have something to drive again, but the details are going to kill the bank. And I'm not feeling to confident in the paint and bondo department. But yet again just another skill to learn and not pay for.I'd like to see done pics of those air force IH's... I'll try and post some more pics as I go. But its going to be slow going from here back to work and all.
fred demmon
New member
Any updates?