727 transmission problem

D

dutka2678

Member
1973 International Scout II 345 727 Dana 20. I only had reverse and was told to change filter and fluid and adjust the bands. I followed mm thread on the bands and put everything back together and now I have no gears. I put it in nuetral and levels are full. Any ideas??? Please help!!!! I did buy another trans and was told it worked, should I just swap. How hard is it to do? If I go rent a trans jack?
 
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Pretty safe bet given the description that the current trans is in full failure mode and needs to come out. No band aids big enough to restore even temporary limp mode at this point. That takes you to your fork in the road. Overhaul the current unit or swap to the 50/50 donor. Guiding questions:

1. Do you play texas hold 'em? The oft-used expressions "worked before pulled" and "running when parked" can be like fishing for a flush on the river card for the new owner.

2. Is the donor from a Scout II 4x4, some other IH vehicle, or out of a mopar? If the answer is sii 4x4, continue reading. If any other, you can skip ahead to overhauling your current unit.

3. Does the donor trans include a torque converter? You shouldn't trust the torque converter in your current unit any farther than you can throw it. They're fairly heavy. Any used converter makes for a risky proposition as well. Installing a new/reman converter is sop for just about every auto trans overhaul situation.

4. Has the donor equipment been stored indoors, preferably covered up to minimize moisture contamination since being pulled? If the donor is still an option, I suggest you set it up on some kind of low, sturdy bench, set a pan under it, pull the dipstick tube and carefully tilt the trans sideways to drain the fluid out. If the fluid is bright red and not frothy, that's good. Once drained, remove the fluid pan for a look inside. See any heavy sludge in the pan bottom? Significant accumulation of friction material or metal shavings? If everything looks real purdy inside, you might have a winner. At which point a swap is slightly less risky, but still a gamble.
 
It was pulled from a 79 Scout that was a rust bucket. The fluid looked good and not much shavings in the pan. I paid 200 for the trans and transfer and was there when he pulled it off the engine. I do have the torque converter from the 79. It has been in my garage since the pull. Would you take the risk?
 
I've had my arms inside these boxes up to my elbows, so unless I possessed more intimate historical knowledge of the donor unit, I'd probably take my time performing an overhaul of one or the other. That way I know exactly what I'm sticking back in. Uncertainty sucks.

There's a fair amount of labor involved in just the unit r&r. Drive shafts disco-ed, temporary supports placed at the rear of the engine either from above or below, x-member removed, t-case dropped, cooling lines and linkages disco-ed, trans jack in place, bell bolts and flex plate bolts pulled, now the trans can finally come down. Then do it all over again in reverse order. If your Scout has dual exhaust, you'll be fighting to get that fat case past the pipes in both directions. Unless your Scout has a big lift on it, the trans attached to the jack won't clear the frame on the way out or in. Gotta prepare for that too.
 
Started pulling apart trans and it looks like the are little cracks in the valve body. I snapped a pic. I am guessing this is a bad thing. How do I remove the extention housing?
 

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I'd say so. Those are unauthorized fluid leaks. Is this from the donor or the current trans? It appears to have been mishandled in some way. Perhaps from being dropped or from over-tightened fasteners.
 
Not entirely, but they can be interchanged. The main difference is in the part-throttle kickdown function. The later vb should have a limiting valve that prevents automatic kickdown above a certain road speed.
 
Looked at a pic from an earlier model and there are holes where these cracks are. Are these supposed to be holes and not machined correct or are the holes not on the newer valve bodies?
 
Those look like stress cracks to me. These valve bodies are precision devices so all holes, dips and depressions are generally well planned and executed as opposed to the jagged edge, peened out oil drain back holes found in the sv engine blocks. I'd be leery of that vb. I'd also now be wondering what other possible evidence of hamfisting might be lurking inside that box. Red flag warning.
 
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