67' Scout 800 wiring

RangerScout

RangerScout

New member
Alright so here's the deal, I am working on a 67' Scout 800 2wd 4cyl manual trans at my schools auto shop. The problem is some idiot decided to disconnect every wire on the dash side of the truck, the ignition, all of the gauges ect. And basically the entire wiring system is ghetto. We are trying to get this running with as little wiring as possible.

I spent some time today trying to get it to just turn over. We took the ignition to the engine compartment and I tried to connect everything with just alligator clips to see if I could get it to turn over.

So I had the hot lead from the batt. To the batt. Clip on the ign. I hooked the starter to the starter clip on the ign. And I had to ign. Coil + side ran through a resistor then into the ign. (run mode) on the ign. Nothing happened when I turned the key.


Anyways do you guys have any tips, or any ideas to simplify the wiring?

Thanks, ben
 
Meddy huh? Check out post 8 in the link below. This is a sticky thread in the electrical tech sub-forum. Might give you a little help. You'll need to print out a hard copy of the pdf and use a magnifying glass to read it.

If the wiring is really as bad as you make it sound, you'll spend a lot of time chasing your tail, polishing random turd wires into gems...or you can pony up the bucks for a universal kit such as kwikwire available right here from ihon. Then you can gut all that spaghetti and start fresh with individually labelled circuits.

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/electrical-tech/5408-ihc-electrical-schematic-library.html
 
If I owned the Scout then I would buy the kit in a heartbeat, however it is owned by my school right now. I am planning on buying the Scout after I have it running, but I don't wanna buy it with out driving it. So I May try and get it running enough to drive it then buy the truck and the wiring kit.


And thanks for the link to the wiring diagram
 
Ok makes sense. The circuitry required to enable starting and running is pretty basic, even if you have to run new wires just for that purpose. Its essentially b+ to the large starter solenoid lug, which is then transferred to the ignition switch via a 10ga wire for main power and accessory distribution. There is no fuse block. The coil + terminal should have two wires connected to it. One is a ballasted or resisted feed which is from a key switched "on" source. The other originates from the solenoid 'r' terminal and is a resistor bypass which provides full b+ to the coil only while the starter is cranking. Once the engine catches and the starter is released, then the ballasted feed takes over. The coil - terminal has a small gauge wire running up into the distributor. Check your grounds too. Good luck and have fun!
 
Oh, and one other critical wire I failed to mention. It would be the circuit running from the "start" terminal on the ignition switch down to the "I" terminal on the solenoid. That one is necessary to engage the starter when the key is switched to the "start" position. Kind of important. Sorry for leaving it out.
 
If this engine has been hibernating in a non-rotated state for a year or longer, it would behoove you guys to perform some pre-lube procedures before you get too carried away with cranking. If you go to post #3 in the link below, you'll find a large pdf file attachment "old iron" which explains this procedure in great detail. Its a bit involved, but certainly less of a pain than replacing wiped cam bearings a short time later from dry revs. Although that job would be a great learning experience for the class. I'm local to you. Which school are you attending?


http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...I-4-sv-engine-non-oiling-rocker-assembly.html
 
We actually started to prep for turning it over today in class, we are gunna spray some wd-40 in the cylinders and crank oil through the system via the distributer.

And I got to north medford high school
 
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I got a couple of pics today
 
Black tornado. Sweet. Someone is to be commended for the choice of subject vehicles for you young uns to learn on. It doesn't get much more basic than an old Scout. The distributor is a delcotron 4-popper unit. Those are great dizzys and very hard to come by. Don't let that one sprout any "legs" while its out of the engine.
 
Yea, we have a bunch of random vehicles, our teacher got this one cause a kid owed him 150 bucks and had that Scout that wasn't running. So my teacher gave him 150 for it so basically payed 300 for it. I am considering buying it to cruise in while I am building my race truck, but ill see how I like driving it. Supposedly it should run like a champ, it has a recent valve job and new piston rings and I think a few other things
 
She's a beaut, clark! The front grille/valance piece came off of an older Scout 80 model. Not that it matters any on this "custom" ride. On a stock '67 grille, the word International is spelled out in block letters across the center, instead of the brass man on a tractor IH emblem and the grille insert is more of a honey-comb design.
 
Thinking about it now it does look a little retro-fitted. I'm not worried about it, if I buy this after a while of dding it I'm building a crawler
 
Ihc offered two 4-poppers semi-concurrently, a 152 and a 196. Do you know which one is in this Scout? Is the transmission a 3 or a 4 speed?
 
I think it is the 196 but I don't know for sure. My auto teacher thought it was the 196 but he is kinda crazy so it could be the other. I have class tomorrow morning so I can find out
 
The easiest way to tell between the two is by looking at the oil dipstick bracket on the front of the engine. It has two holes. If the bolt is through the top hole = 196. Bottom hole = 152. There is also a machined pad on one side of the block, can't remember which, that will have the displacement stamped into it, but is likely covered with decades of guapo.
 
I forgot to look today, however we did pressurize the oil system and got the distributor back on. Next step is to make this puppy run
 
Got it to run on starter fluid, then we rigged up a gas can to the carb and it almost caught but wouldn't actually run so I need to screw with it some more.
In other news I did a compression test and it has low compression in cyl 1 (~95ish psi) the rest range from 120-140psi. But some plans have changed and this is my new senior project so im not sticking with the 4cyl, so im not gunna screw with it too much.
 
the entire wiring system is ghetto. We are trying to get this running with as little wiring as possible.
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With the schematics trevor referenced you, you'll notice that the wires are number coded, and they're all the same color. If they aren't too butchered up, you will find numbers printed on them near the terminations, at least within an inch of the end of the wire.

Swapping engines from the original 4 cylinder in these rigs can be quite a chore; quite probably more than your senior year will give you time for.
 
greg r said:
swapping engines from the original 4 cylinder in these rigs can be quite a chore; quite probably more than your senior year will give you time for.
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That's a fact. Even swapping a 196 in place of the 152 with no fabrication required can prove challenging. While your compression reading on #1 appears lower than the others, it isn't so low that it would prevent the engine from running well enough and probably for quite awhile provided the fuel, ignition, and electrical systems were up to snuff. If it were me, that's what I'd focus on. Making a dependable runner out of it with the current power plant. After that engine comes back to life and runs for awhile, you just might find that the compression readings equal out somewhat.
 
I know what you guys are saying, and if this was just going to be a cruizer I would just work on the current engine. But I am building a crawler, therefore I can't have an engine with a carb. And I really need a v8. My plan right now is putting the Scout body on either a Chevy or Ford frame, I figured out it would end up being way cheaper and easier than trying to swap in the v8 and tranny and tcase and power steering and brakes ect.
 
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