2300C woes

With those idle mixture needles, do you remember installing or can you now see a small, cork o-ring on each one as erik mentioned? Its very important that those little do-dads are in place.

The choke plate tension adjusts by rotating the black thermal housing one direction or the other. There are three set screws in a triangular pattern that lock the thermal in position. Loosen, but do not remove each screw. There are rotation arrows on the face of the thermal indicating either lean or Rich. Rotate the knob in the Rich direction to allow the choke plate to close up more. There are also a series of index notches on the top surface of the thermal with an arrow pointer. You really shouldn't need to go more than one notch beyond the center line in either the Rich or lean direction to be set up pretty well. This is all providing that there isn't any alignment problem with the choke plate that would prevent it from closing.

The problem I mentioned with the linkage isn't so much with the pivot bracket itself. It looked fine. The problem is with the flat bar with the slot cut out in the center and the tang for the small spring on one side. The tang and spring should be facing towards the center of the engine rather than out towards the fender. But again, this has nothing to do with your engine not being able to idle.
 
When we took the carb apart we did soak it in a carb cleaned type stuff over night, and then we cleaned it out and blew air through the little weep holes that you guys had mentioned. We also replaced those little cork gaskets like you had mentioned. I think we did do a good job cleaning it, I am just thinking it needs a little "tweeking".
What I have found now is that when I went to move the electric choke to richer or leaner, I noticed that the positive side of the electric choke was warm ro the touch, so I unplugged it because I was a little concerned that there maybe a short of some sort. Since I have owned this truck, I have had to disconnect the battery because something is drawing it down, but I cannot find it. Also, I thought I would try and start it when I had the positive wire disconnected and shazam, it started up and I took for a spin around the block, wanted to die though several times because it wasnt warm enough, but it is progress.
Tomorrow is it supposed to rain/snow all day, so I will not be able to work on it, but I plan getting the proper jets and the heat shield for it.

Brian
 
For the time being, we'll operate on the assumption that you did a thorough job cleaning and a good job putting it back together, and we'll focus on dialing in the external adjustments as best we can. Hopefully that will get it purring good. If we get all the adjustments dialed and it still misbehaves...well, just be prepared to go back inside that carb, but let's hope that won't be necessary.

That thermal housing should not have been warm to the touch if the engine hadn't been running. Sounds to me like the power source is constantly hot. That's not what we want. Do you have an illuminating 12v test probe? If not, you need to get one. They're dirt cheap and indispensable for diagnosing electrical issues.

If you've got a parasitic drain that's taking your battery down, we'll want to work through that also. I've got some pointers for you when you're ready to tackle that job.
 
I had some time to mess with the truck today for a little while and as I was checking the electric on my ingnition switch I found that on my acc side of the switch it is showing 12v when the ignition isnt even on, and I forgot to mention that when I took it for spin around the block the other day the key fell out of the ignition and on the floor, but the truck was still running. That has to be what is drawing my battery down for sure. I would like to replace my ignition switch because I am thinking this one is toast, but I am going to trace the lines to see if there is a short somewhere.
 
Your drain might be switch related, but it could just as easily be unrelated. The acc terminal should only be energized when the key switch is in the acc or on positions. Being constantly hot is a problem. The grooves inside the key tumblers get worn after a lot of use and will allow the key to be removed without shutting off.
 
And just to clarify: the key cylinder and the ignition switch are two entirely different units. They are only connected by a long metal rod linkage; the ignition switch is much lower down on the steering column, near the brake pedal.

I know that some people mistakenly think that the key cylinder is where the actual electrical parts are for the ignition switch (not the case).
 
Erik, that's certainly true of Scout II's. Though Brian did not indicate which vehicle he's dealing with, the underhood pics show it to be a d-series, in which case the ignition switch is an all in one located in the dash rather than the steering column.
 
Erik and scoutboy, I should have mentioned this before, but I wasnt thinking about it at the time. This is a 73 wagon master, so the ignition is in the bottom dash. When the truck was shipped to me the owner gave me the wrong key to the ignition so I had to borrow my friends 1970 pick ups ignition switch, so it maybe a bad switch from sitting for so long in the weather. Who knows. I am going to be messing with this electric for awhile, so I wont be getting to the carb anytime soon, but I will post up when I am ready to set the carb. I dont want to keep bother you guys about non carb stuff.
You guys have been great though, I really appreciate your help a lot. It is good to know that there are people out there that are willing to help.

Thanks,
Brian
 
scoutboy74 said:
erik, that's certainly true of Scout II's. Though Brian did not indicate which vehicle he's dealing with, the underhood pics show it to be a d-series, in which case the ignition switch is an all in one located in the dash rather than the steering column.
Click to expand...

Good catch; thanks.
Just assumed Scout II.
 
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