Captainkerber
New member
I am about to take out a 152 gas engine out of my 1962 Scout 80. I plan on rebuilding both the engine and three speed manual transmition. My question would it be easier to pull them both together or separately?
152 engine removal
- Thread starter Captainkerber
- Start date
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Separately. The word "shoehorn" comes to mind.
Captainkerber
New member
Thanks. Will do.
There is very minor etching on the cylinder wall of my number two cylinder do you know if it is possable to hone it yourself. I live on kauai hawaii and finding someone who can do this type of job in a reasonable amount of time is difficult.
There is very minor etching on the cylinder wall of my number two cylinder do you know if it is possable to hone it yourself. I live on kauai hawaii and finding someone who can do this type of job in a reasonable amount of time is difficult.
Scooter
Active member
Depends on how deep the "etching" is. You could try honing it lightly. Here on the main land most of the chain automotive stores sell (or rent) honing tools.
One concern would be how many miles are on the motor and if there is any sort of ring ridge. If the bores are worn, just from normal high milage or abuse, then I would consider having the block bored to the next size available replacement pistons. Then do a rebuild.
One concern would be how many miles are on the motor and if there is any sort of ring ridge. If the bores are worn, just from normal high milage or abuse, then I would consider having the block bored to the next size available replacement pistons. Then do a rebuild.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I agree with sb74. You need to remove the radiator and top support and to get the engine out you just about have to lift the it straight up to clear the front of the frame and inner body structure. The trans hanging on the back would definitely get in the way.
Can you shoot a good picture of the pitting/etching and post it? Probably never know it is there, but like noted above if you have a bunch of wear in the bores you should bore it anyhow. Give the bores a good cleaning and remove the carbon at the top of the bores and see if you can feel a ridge. Then take a few diameter measurements. Per the IH manual you can slip a piston in the bore and with the given gauge check piston to bore clearance. These are designed to be field repaired so there are some unorthodox techniques in the book. If you're interested I May be able to post some detail in the process.
Can you shoot a good picture of the pitting/etching and post it? Probably never know it is there, but like noted above if you have a bunch of wear in the bores you should bore it anyhow. Give the bores a good cleaning and remove the carbon at the top of the bores and see if you can feel a ridge. Then take a few diameter measurements. Per the IH manual you can slip a piston in the bore and with the given gauge check piston to bore clearance. These are designed to be field repaired so there are some unorthodox techniques in the book. If you're interested I May be able to post some detail in the process.
Last edited:
Captainkerber
New member
Thanks for the info I am pulling the engine on Wednesday and I will get pictures of the etching up before then.
Captainkerber
New member
The engine is out and to my nice supprise what I thought was itching or grooves was carbon buildup. What is the best method to properly remove the buildup? Now I do have a lot of damage to the piston. From the pictures attached can you tell should I just replace the one piston or replace them all. This is my first project of this magnitude. I want to do it right without spending more than necessary. Any advice or links to follow would be appreciated.
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0309.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0310.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0311.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0311.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0309.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0310.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0311.jpg
/users/ziyaneema1/desktop/img_0311.jpg
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Those are links to your computer. You'll be better off using the attach function on the post screen. It's the paper clip on the top tool bar. See attached photo.
Attachments
Captainkerber
New member
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Wow!! That thing has been through a lot during it's life. What do the combustion chamber's look like. It either ingested a foreign object or it was stuck and someone pounded the pistons free..
In your case I'd want to tear it the rest of the way apart and asses the damage.
The carbon at the top is easily scraped off with a single edged razor blade. Then a good cleaning with carb cleaner to remove the left overs.
I do see some water damage which is pitting. Once you have it apart buy a bottle brush hone of 220 grit and give it a licking making sure to move up and down so you have cross hatch.
After it it is clean measure it up with a bore gauge of telescoping gauges and a micrometer. See what you have for wear. Or post up numbers. We'll decide then.
In your case I'd want to tear it the rest of the way apart and asses the damage.
The carbon at the top is easily scraped off with a single edged razor blade. Then a good cleaning with carb cleaner to remove the left overs.
I do see some water damage which is pitting. Once you have it apart buy a bottle brush hone of 220 grit and give it a licking making sure to move up and down so you have cross hatch.
After it it is clean measure it up with a bore gauge of telescoping gauges and a micrometer. See what you have for wear. Or post up numbers. We'll decide then.
Captainkerber
New member
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Captainkerber
New member
Yes I can feel the ridge and you are exactly right about the nut. Apparently the missing nut I lost on the air filter found its way into the intake manifold. As soon as I heard the noise I knew what happen but the engine was warmed up and the damage was done. That is why this project was started. The nut was completely gone when I pulled the head just a few pieces of metal.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Sorry about the nut eating ordeal. Just guessing that it would be best to bore it. Can you pick up any numbers stamped on the existing pistons? Usually on the round flat valve relief. I have a set of those in .020 over that we could talk about if you end up going that route.
Captainkerber
New member
Finally had time to pull the pistons. I had to clean a lot of carbon off but found the numbers stamped on them 216160-r1 the measurements on the pistons are 3 27/32. The cylinders I used a engine cylinder hone tool with a 240 grit stone to remove the lip on the cylinder the cylinder measurement is 3 7/8. I was able to clean up the damaged piston pretty well I will attach a picture when I can get the picture down down loaded. The sides of the piston look good no appearent damaged should I still replace it or them? I have not removed the camshaft yet. At this point in the disassembly would you recommend continuing and replace any camshaft seals and bearings?
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
You really need a good set of micrometers to measure the piston. If you just want to do minimal work and simply have fun with your Scout, hone all of the cylinders like the first one, find an old usable standard piston to replace the bashed up one and install new rings bearings and run it. Will probably be fine really for even a daily driver. These things were designed to be field serviceable.
Captainkerber
New member
Ok I fininished honeing the cylinders and took new mesuerments. The cylinders are 3.888 or 3.889mm would you recommend just replacing rings or getting new oversized pistons. Although I only drive 30 miles a day this is my daily driver and I the island I live on is mountainous. About a thousand foot elevation change to get home.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
If the pistons were right on 3.875 you would have .013 clearence. .0025- .004 is a good range. I would bore it. The machine shop needs to take there own measurements to determine how far to go over size. Probably .030.