Where to go from here?

Good news Robert, thank you!

I should have known better on the last installation. My bare crank spinning smoother than my cam should have been my first clue! :crazy:

I've learned a lesson a will remember it forever.

I notice the rear cam plate has two gasket options. One that has the little "legs" that surround the entire oil valley and one without legs. The gasket is only around a 1/16" thick but the one with no legs looks like it would provide a hair more oil to the liters? Is this a reasonable estimation?

Jason
 
Well, she's back in and broken in! Hopefully the second time is a charm!

Getting everything back together went very smooth. The cam timed exactly the same. My timing gears are retarded so it's installed 1 tooth advanced for a total of 3 degrees advance in the cam.

I went with clevite bearings this go around and actually lost a little clearance. Mains are running at .002 and rods are a hair under .002. (~.00175).

Piston to valve, retainer to seal, and coil bind clearances are virtually identical to my previous measurements.

Break in was performed Saturday night and went very smooth (with the exception of my rear neighbor calling the cops on me.:out:) the oil was drained and filter cut immediately after for inspection. No non-ferrous metals were found and so far things look good. I found a great video made by an airplane mechanic that walks you through filter inspections. After cutting out and inspecting the pleats, he washes the filter media in solvent and then pours it through a blue shop rag. It not only allows you to obtain the big picture of total accumulation but it also give you a chance to save the collection for future comparison. I'm not sure I'll be collecting years worth of filter data but it's certainly not a bad idea for the first few changes. I've never inspected an oil filter prior to this build so I'm really not sure how to completely interpret what I'm seeing, especially on break in when so much is happening. (plus the fact that I'm still cutting the filter with a cut off wheel.). At least a comparison will give me some data I can understand.

At this point that's about it. I broke everything in with the bare minimum installed on the Scout just in case. I'm not just full of confidence at this point and wanted to be able to yank it back out in a flash.

I'll hopefully get everything back together tonight and on the road. I look forward to having it back in the fleet as soon as possible.

I'll post a few pics tonight and I can't thank you guys enough for all the help. The site is a fantastic resource.

Have a good day!
Jason
 
Shoot man, you're going to be a great resource now that
you've been through the IH school of hard knocks. Glad it's back and running. I predict that this round will be a sucess.
 
Robert kenney said:
shoot man, you're going to be a great resource now that
you've been through the IH school of hard knocks. Glad it's back and running. I predict that this round will be a success.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Robert. Man if this helps one person from going through the same thing, I'll take it. I have been accused of enjoying to work on my truck more than driving it but this was a little ridiculous.

I hope you're right Robert. I have noticed less oil pressure than I did prior.. I hope it's just from the extra oilier hole I'm using now.:sosp: after about 20-30 minutes of hard driving, it drops to ~ 12-14psi. I put a new gauge in and it's a little harder to read below 20psi but it's right around there. I'm using brad penn grade 1 15w40 vs the 20w50 I was running. I May follow your lead with the vr1.

I know that pressure is good for a 40 year old sv8 but not sure where that falls for a new build? It is quiet, lifters are pumping up very quick in the morning. The one thing I'm certain about at this point is it's performing great. I'm very a happy with the cam & cr bump. Now I just need it too last!

Thanks,

jason
 
I like the fact that you see a small decrease in oil pressure. Simply means you are pushing oil around to the important parts and pieces, namely the lifter galleries. The key is quiet lifters... :winky:

you've got closer rods and mains this time around, from what I gather from your earlier post, I'd stick with the 15-40.
 
Jeff campbell said:
it will if you keep your foot outa it ! " play you pay ! Lol " Jeff:eek6:
Click to expand...

Jeff, you know I didn't do all this just to fart around town!

Robert kenney said:
I like the fact that you see a small decrease in oil pressure. Simply means you are pushing oil around to the important parts and pieces, namely the lifter galleries. The key is quiet lifters... :winky:

you've got closer rods and mains this time around, from what I gather from your earlier post, I'd stick with the 15-40.
Click to expand...

Thank you Robert. You are correct, I lost about 2.5-5.0 ten thousandths on the rods and mains vs the last set. That all makes very good sense.

Jason
 
Okay, 2nd oil change unfortunately, I don't think it looks good.

I cut the filter open with an angle grinder. I tried not pierce it all the way through so I could keep from contaminating the filter as much as possible. (somewhat successful) then I just pried with a screw driver until the top popped off.

Cut the filter medai out with a razor knife, cut it in half, and then spread it out over white paper towels pinning it down with thumb tacks. I let it sit for a bit as it easier to see once it's "dried out" a little. Like I said, I don't think I should be seeing what I'm seeing but who knows, maybe it's ok.

Take a look for yourself.

100_2434.jpg


100_2435.jpg


100_2436.jpg


100_2438.jpg


100_2427.jpg


I don't think I can stand the sight of more cam bearing in my pan.:icon_stressed:


thanks,
jason
 
You know, probably most of that is what was floating around in the oil passages from the previous bearing failure.
 
mrwolf said:
tested with a magnet so you are sure it is bearing material you have found?
Click to expand...

Hey mr. Wolf, I plan on doing that today. It's dried out quite a bit and should be easier to test.

fdchappie said:
you know, probably most of that is what was floating around in the oil passages from the previous bearing failure.
Click to expand...

Hey chappie, I sure wish that could be the case. However, I stripped the block down to nothing, pulled all the gallery plugs and washed it over again as if it had just come back from the machine shop. It was spotless when I put it back together.



Jason
 
Quick update. I could pick up pretty much everything with a magnet. Some of the really small pieces were partially embedded into the media so I can't comment on those.
I could have sworn some of them were babbitt but none the less, they came up too.

I've been driving and there are no issues that I can see, feel, or hear at this point so I'm going to continue on as usual. We'll see how the next one looks in comparison.



Jason
 
Jason, you did things right and there in no reason to believe thing are going south this time... Those few specs could have come from anywhere. No matter how well you think the block has been cleaned there is always a few stragglers in the corners..

Put a couple 1000 miles on it before the next change and don't worry about it.
 
Robert kenney said:
jason, you did things right and there in no reason to believe thing are going south this time... Those few specs could have come from anywhere. No matter how well you think the block has been cleaned there is always a few stragglers in the corners..

Put a couple 1000 miles on it before the next change and don't worry about it.
Click to expand...

Sounds good Robert, that's exactly what I'll do. Thanks for chiming in!

Jason
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top