Head Gasket consensus

J

jasondart

Member
I am going in my 67' 345 and changing gaskets...from what I have found it sounds like "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". With the new gaskets being thicker than the origional. How much does this affect it? Should I just change it or leave it? What else would I need to do if I changed it?
 
I had a good running 345 that had the oem shim gaskets. I had to remove the heads and while they were off, cleaned off all the carbon, etc. I then used the felpros which were composition. The engine actually ran smoother after that. Maybe that was the slight reduction in c.r., and/or removal of carbon, but overall, I'd say don't worry about it. It won't hurt anything. Shims are 0.015", the felpros compress down to 0.039-0.040".

But I wouldn't pull the heads unless I had a good reason.
 
No real reason, what another 16 bolts. :gringrin: the engine was running good and no water in the oil, but this dang thing is dirty. I cannot believe what I have gotten out of the frost plugs so far, so I figured I would just check out as much as I could and do a good clean. Didn't want to put it all back, just to have a leaky head gasket next year.

Anyone else?
 
jasondart said:
I am going in my 67' 345 and changing gaskets...from what I have found it sounds like "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". With the new gaskets being thicker than the origional. How much does this affect it? Should I just change it or leave it? What else would I need to do if I changed it?
Click to expand...

Compression ratio will go down .3 with the .042 composite felpros won't make a power difference but the big part is the quench distance increase to .06. You can buy the oem steel gaskets. Just gotta look. Anyhow in the quick version don't worry about it.
 
If you do decide to go with oem sshim head gasket's,it would be wise to make sure the head surface is perfectly flat.,the composite will work ok if the heads aren;t perfect,but the steel 1's,are border line on an uneven head surface,comp will work up to .006 warpage.Jeff
 
I wipl probably just go with aftermarket. First, I think I am just going to pull the engine. Wish me luck as it is my first time. Just waiting on engine mount from harbor freight.
 
Hopefully you're going heavier duty than the 750lb option. I'd even be a bit leery with the 1k, but that would be better.
 
scoutboy74 said:
hopefully you're going heavier duty than the 750lb option. I'd even be a bit leery with the 1k, but that would be better.
Click to expand...

Yea, the 1k one did not look too stable, so I opted for the 2k stand. Not a bad deal. It is on sale and I found a 20% off coupon.

image_21269.jpg
 
Re: Head Gasket Block Cleaning

How clean does this sucker need to be. I wish I could get it milled down, but that would involve a complete teardown and I just didn't want to go that far. The local machine shop just said to use a wood block and sandpaper.

Here is what I have so far.

20130501_152822_zpsba3a6938.jpg


20130501_152827_zpseb9670a5.jpg


The ridges are off and it feels as smooth as it can be. I have tried acetone and everything else, but just can't get it all off.
 
The stains are fine. So long as you remove the attached foreign material and wipe it super clean with acetone/lacquer thinner or mek your good to go... You should verify the deck flatness with a precision straight edge.
Super important to chase the head bolt holes with a 1/2 -13 tap or fluted bolt. Blast them out with carb cleaner or solvent of your choice and compressed air...
What gasket are you using? Felpro pt? Other
 
If you're "checking things". I think the 1a priority would be the camshaft bearings. If somethings "wrong" that will be it. I've only owned two sv8's but both of them had bad bearings. I won't run another without checking.

From the pic above, you're not to far away from it now. Just a little extra work for good piece of mind.



Jason
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top