WesChapman
Member
I love that truck!!!! If you should ever decide to sell, please call me a couple weeks before so I can sell one of my children.
IH Parts Americas 1-Ton Travelall
- Thread starter ihpartsjeff
- Start date
Bo185
Member
Man looks great. I had a boil over issue with my 14 bolt in my travelette. I swiched to amsoil and it went away. Also man I would swap to TBI it made a world of difference in my 392.
I have been really interested in the nv4500 swap. What shifter is that?
How much for a rebuilt 2wd nv4500?
Any more details on the swap itself?
I have been really interested in the nv4500 swap. What shifter is that?
How much for a rebuilt 2wd nv4500?
Any more details on the swap itself?
The rear diffy boil over issue was resolved when I redid the back half of the exhaust. I hear you on the fuel injection and agree it will probably be better than the carb but for now I'm happy with how it performs.
The shifter is from advance adapters. We sell reman nv4500 transmissions already converted for IH input starting at $2500.
Steve Grant
Member
Inspiring!!!! I am interested in the leaf springs you installed on your Travelall. I have a '72 1210 that was a 2wd from the factory, but was converted to a 4wd, with a Dana 60 front end. How much are those springs??
Tonka Toy
Member
This is an awesome build! It gives me much to consider and look forward to, in building mine. I am curious if any of these parts will become available to purchase? Those sliders and the bumper are awesome! And I'd be interested in a pair of those front spring mounts you made.
I'd also like to ask about that fuel tank. I've thought of installing one there, and having the stock tank feed into it, or maybe a separate filler. Not sure exactly just yet. But I'd like some more info on that tank and the install please.
I'm sure there's more, but I'll have to go through this posting again. Oh twist my arm! Lol!
I'd also like to ask about that fuel tank. I've thought of installing one there, and having the stock tank feed into it, or maybe a separate filler. Not sure exactly just yet. But I'd like some more info on that tank and the install please.
I'm sure there's more, but I'll have to go through this posting again. Oh twist my arm! Lol!
They are GM leafsprings and we do sell them individually for roughly $160 a pack but they are not a direct bolt in. The fronts as seen in the build needed new hangers fabricated for the front. What I didn't mention is that the bushings for the front shackle hanger were some left over bushings that I already had and modified to fit both the hangar and the GM spring so they are not an off the shelf(that I know of). The rear GM leafsprings use a smaller bolt in the shackle and spring eye. I had to press out the bushings and install new ones with the proper dimensions.
Thanks for the comments. The sliders are honestly trail gear brand that we are gauging interest on. If we get enough requests we will make them available as either a kit or fully assembled as we have been working with tg on becoming a dealer. The rear bumper was a one off custom but I can have it made here in the shop. The front hangers I'll be having made soon enough. Either way best to call us for ordering details.
Not much more to offer information wise on the fuel tank. Its the only one we've done and what info I posted on the build up is really all I have on that.
Steve Grant
Member
Jeff, I will be getting with you on those springs. Do you also sell the draglink that you used for steering? Do have the dimensions for the spring hangers for the front? My truck has the rear spring hangers at the 2wd position.
Like the build says it was a off the shelf item that I modified. As for the hanger that is something that we will be producing and selling so I'd rather not give out dimensions on it.
Bo185
Member
Why did you mod the front hangers the GM mid 80's Rough Country springs I bought from you bolted right up with my GM Dana 60 and IH front hangers and mine was a 2wd truck orginally so it had a rear hanger in the 2wd position already.
I had to fab 4'' long rear shackles for the fronts shackles and that's it!
Also the rear axle placement its alittle fwd of the rear wheel well. I planed on reduein my perches but because mine were 1 tons they bolted with up with not need to adjust the perches. But I was going to use a multi hole percher to move the axle back a little in the perches to get it to fit the wheel better.
I wouldn't recommend the rc springs they are well rough riding!! And these trucks look taller in the front due to the larger wheel well opening. I think a 6'' rear with 4'' front spring would work best lift wise, it will give a truck slight rake and it will look better. I plan to remove a leaf from a fronts one for a better ride an the other to lower it a little.
I simply reemed the GM bushings for the larger IH bolts. Worked like a champ took 5 min to do them all.
But I would really like to know were the rear upper shock mounts came off of?? I hate the ones I made the shock is pretty short in the IH config. They look like mid 80s GM's that what I was going to use. One day I will re due my rear shock for sure!!!
Steve Grant
Member
Understood on the dimensions, I will keep my eyes out on when you start selling the hangers. Great job on the truck.
Even though the springs fit the front hangers I didn't like how they fit hence why I made new ones. I also was doing some r&d for future kits and the majority of the trucks I have come across in the past 20 plus years that I have been doing this usually have worn, bent or rusty front hangers.
When I first did the lift my 4" shackles bottomed out on the bottom of the frame so I had to switch them out to 5" shackles.
I ran into the same problem with the rear axle being too far forward. It worked fine but I had one too many people walk up to me in oregon at the Binder Bee and ask why my rear end was so far forward. When I got back from that trip and had it up on the lift doing the exhaust I also took the time to move the rear axle back one inch. I fortunately already had replaced the perchs with the three bolt style so moving it back the inch was easy. For guys with stock d60 rear ends they don't have this option(without installing new perchs).
My Travelall rides decent but I agree I wish the ride were better on the biggest bumps. I too agree that the 4" lift front springs with the 6" rears would make the rig sit more level but out here in CA we like that nose high prerunner look. Next time I lift a fullsize I want to try 4" lift GM springs front and rear and keep the factory rear lift blocks and see how it rides compared to the 6" springs.
I'm guessing you're talking about the rear springs?? I tried reaming one and immediately tore up an expensive drill bit.
I figured the IH 74'-75' pickups had the shocks this way for a reason so I thought I would go that way too. When I torched the hitch off I left a piece of angle iron that was being used as a crossmember for the hitch but was now doing nothing. Some shock tabs were welded to it and that side was done. The other side that I mounted inside the frame rail I honestly have no idea what it came off of. When working on another project I was looking for some short shock towers. I looked around in the dorman book one day and saw those and ordered one in. It didn't work out on that project and was sitting in the return box when I dug it out and found it would work great for this project.
Steve Grant
Member
Anytime Jeff. I agree with making new spring hangers, the factory spring hangers holes wear out. Jeff, '74-'75 rear shocks were staggered from the factory to control wheel hop. I saw that in a factory brochure.
Tonka Toy
Member
I urge you Jeff, to put the spring hangar kit out first. I need to swap out my toasted old springs, and I think one of my front hangars is bent. I'll be swapping in some new springs I got form dan hayes. Some 1210's with about 1.5" of lift, iirc. Will I need to relocate or lengthen my shackles with the placement of the new front mounts? Tanks! 
Bo185
Member
This is true it would be a bolt in option at that point as the IH hangers are narrower then what the gms with bushings are you either have to trim the bushings or run narrow ones to fit the IH hanger, the ihparts hangers would fix that issue and bolt on.
I mocked up with 4'' ones 4'' and I would have had frame issues I set mine up with 4.25''. And have some minor frame contact but only when wheeling it very hard. I also ran grade 8 bolts in everything I could.
The biggest factor shackle wise is with the stock divorced 205 and a 6'' lift is ujoint angle. Mine is alittle off at the pinion and I get vibrations above 50mpg with front hubs locked. I looked at 5'' shackles and it would have made the caster and ujoint angle worst imo. 4'' springs would help that area out and I hope to gain some at the shackles and ujoint when I lower it by removing a leaf.
Three bolts are a must with a fullsize. My donor 14 bolt was a cucv 1 ton so perch width was perfect in those axles. But I have the center alignment with bed problem. I will fix this issue when I swap in a GM aam 10.5 which is a 14bolt with discs and ebrake setup just the newest 14 bolt. And I will get the three bolt perches and have disc rear.
With mine I got a full 6'' front lift and 2'' lift rear as I removed the 4'' blocks and the truck had a 2'' tail high rake to begin with. My frame sets level. I need to get the arkansas rake back! Lol
I wish I would have got lighter spring rate springs. Especially for the front. I got bbc springs thinking heavy sv, they flat out suck. I think lighter spring rate would help even with the sv motor. I think even 1/2 tons spring would ride like a caddy but might sag over time.
Be carefully with the blocks as you will get more lift in the rear with 4'' on top and have axle wrap.
On your Travelall. You might try removing a leaf in the rear and adding alittle air to the bags and see if that helps with ride as well.
Yeah that was the rears. I opened them with a drill bit them used a reamer to get final size. For the front shackles I simply drilled the shackle hole for the GM springs. So smaller bolt on spring and IH bolt on top. Works great.
I redo mine when I do the axle swap. I though I had seen the GM mid 80s truck looked just like those. But I can fab something up.
I urge you Jeff, to put the spring hangar kit out first. I need to swap out my toasted old springs, and I think one of my front hangars is bent. I'll be swapping in some new springs I got form dan hayes. Some 1210's with about 1.5" of lift, iirc. Will I need to relocate or lengthen my shackles with the placement of the new front mounts? Tanks!
If I understand your question correctly the front hangers that I came up with still located the spring in the same position.
But to clarify what do you mean by "some 1210's with about 1.5" of lift"? Are you going to use IH springs or GM springs like I used?
Tonka Toy
Member
I'm going to use the IH springs that I already have first. If there's an issue with ride quality or whatever, then I'll consider other options. But for the front, the plan is to install the better hangar up front (thanks to you), and see what I get. And if the ride height works for us, then I'll get the 62's for the rear and fab mounts that gives me the right rake without a lift block. I might need some lifted springs to do it, but that's the plan.
PacificEd
Member
I'm interested in a set of the front hangers. Any word on how long until they will be available?
Excellent build thread.
Ok but the hangers I have designed are intended for GM springs, not IH. Not 100% that it won't work with them but I did want you to know that these hangers were not intended for IH springs.
I'm interested in a set of the front hangers. Any word on how long until they will be available?
Excellent build thread.
I just need to get going on another prototype to send out to our manufacturer. Lets say 6-8 weeks.
Pretty darn good! I don't have the horsepower that my white Scout does as the engine in the Travelall was built stock but overall it does well and does not start to get hot on the hills like my built up Scout's 392 does. I can tow in 5th gear on the flat lands. If I towed more often I would probably drop the gearing further to either 4.88's or 5.13's for a little better grunt but when not towing and in the open highway I can't ask for a better gearing combo.
MITCH NEAL
New member
How heavy is your trailer? I would like to tow with my 69 travelette, but my trailer is 6800lbs empty. Just wondering how it would act.
My travel trailer empty is 3900 pounds, much lighter than yours. However I recently towed a traveler on my heavy steel car trailer(roughly 7000# trailer weight) and it handled just fine. The Travelall drives great. On the trip to Colorado I logged 920 miles in one 13 hour stretch.