73 Scout II "The Booger"

[Izzy]

Greetings IH fans.. I am new to this arena. I started with an 81 k5 blazer dubbed "the beast"..
This is what I spent $800 bucks on..

This is what I ended selling due to military moving me to cali..

So.. I vowed to get another project and wanted to venture into the world of the Scout.. Did some searching here in cali.. This is what I bought.

Bought it from a college student who wanted a better gas milage vehicle. She wanted $1200 bucks but I picked it up for $1000.. it was her daily driver, I dont know how this thing was still running. Will explain further about that later.. Got Scout home and quickly it was dubbed "the booger" due to the color.

 

[Izzy]

Scout quickly found room in the garage and the tear down began... Up on the jack stands we go..

Time for engine work...

The grime was so bad you could not see what the valve covers looked like and here is a perfect pic of the timing cover and fuel pump...

After a lil dip in the degreasing solution the timing cover looked great along with everything else that found its way into the parts soup...

So I dropped the oil pan and this is what I saw.. Lil metal shards.. Ugh....

After I regrouped.. It was time to clean up valve coversw and prep for some fresh paint...

After trying to clean up the remaining front of the engine I found the passenger front freeze plug coroded to the point that only half of the metal still existed.. The other half was grime packed in the engine block holding back the water.. I cleaned as much of that out and replaced both front freeze plugs...

 

[Izzy]

Time to put everything back together.. I tried to find where the metal shards came from with no luck.. Keeping fingers crossed..

I added a tranny cooler, and electric fan setup to the engine.. We shall see how long I last with electronic fan.. I am a lil weary about those things, but it should increase the hp of engine not running mech. Fan...

Time for some suspension work... Out with the old...

Had an issue with three out of the four stock shackle bushings.. They all turned out like this..

Would not come out.. Had to resort to some drilling..

I will prevail, even though "the booger" seems to wanna resist...new shackles in place..

 

[Izzy]

Time to pull rear drive train.. Had to tear the breaks completely apatt.. Dont think these have been touched in years...

Both front and rear drive trains have been degreased, pressure washed, rust treated and painted.. Ready for install..

So, "the booger" has a new ride height.. This is with the new shackles and suspension but old 31" tires...

Now with the new rubber and rims....

I think "the booger" has transformed into "the hulk".. In a matter of three weeks.

Still have work to do.. Need to rebuild the rear break drums, front break drums, install the shocks, extended brake lines, gaskets and fluids in the front and rear pumkins, and correct the alignment on the front... But its a start...

 

[Scoutboy74]

Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service. I think you "picked a winner" in booger. Were the metal chunks you found in the oil pan non-metallic? About the only true weak spot in the IH engines are the cam bearings, and those usually only fail due to poor maintenance or excessive wear. But chunks in the oil pan are most often cam bearing kibble. With a quality wet gauge connected, observed hot oil pressure should be a steady 10 psi per thousand revs at minimum. This is with a quality oil filter such as a wix and proper viscosity oil such as 15w-40 or 20w-50.

 

[Scooter]

Welcome

yea, those old bushing can be a pain to get out. I good sawsall or hack saw works real good for that.

Did ya get the new radiator from ihon?

 

[Izzy]

This is with a quality oil filter such as a wix and proper viscosity oil such as 15w-40 or 20w-50.

That is what these motors run? 15-40 or 20-50? I put oil pan back on and fillled it with 5-30... Just to clean it out a lil bit. I am going to drop oil pan again here shortly since I have not gotten it on the road as of yet and take a look at the main bearings for pistons. Most of the smaller stuf was the non metalic pieces. There was one bigger piece, that I believe came from a piston.. Hopefully no real bad damage..

 

[Izzy]

welcome

did ya get the new radiator from ihon?

Not sure where po got it from, but I like it..

 

[Scoutboy74]

that is what these motors run? 15-40 or 20-50? I put oil pan back on and fillled it with 5-30... Just to clean it out a lil bit. I am going to drop oil pan again here shortly since I have not gotten it on the road as of yet and take a look at the main bearings for pistons. Most of the smaller stuf was the non metalic pieces. There was one bigger piece, that I believe came from a piston.. Hopefully no real bad damage..

5w-30 is fine for some newer car engines, but far too thin for an old school engine. I would not run it one second longer than is absolutely necessary. Matter of fact, I have my doubts about you running that engine much at all, which I'll explain further below.

Single viscosity 30 weight motor oil was the original spec back in the day for moderate climates, but oil technology has come a long way since then. If you spend some time digesting threads in the oil tech section, you will get a better feel for the lubrication why's and wherefores concerning these vehicles.

Based on the evidence you've provided coupled with the well-established notoriety of these engines, I suggest you should spend some time reading this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...IH-lifter-rattle-syndrome-what-do-I-have.html

And this one, as I believe they pertain to your situation:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...I-4-sv-engine-non-oiling-rocker-assembly.html

Like I said previously, the non-metallic pieces are the remains of a cam bearing. Once one fails, top end oil delivery to whichever rocker bank it fed is negatively impacted. It is a steady downhill slide to catastrophic engine failure from there, if the issue is left unattended. Sorry for all the dark clouds, but I don't believe in smoke blow, sugar coatings, and leppyrecons. At least you know what you're likely to be up against early on. Finding any metallic chunks, such as from a piston or a timing gear tooth is an ominous sign indeed.

 

[Izzy]

Thank you for the information scoutboy74. I have only run the motor for a combined time of about 45 mins with the 5-30. There was no loud eye opening rattleing or loud clunks. It actually sounded pretty darn good for its age. I have since drained and dropped the pan again to see if there is anything else from the engine in it and I am glad to report no more debris. I am checking the tie rod bearings out and with any luck will be putting it back together with the proper oil and filter installed. I am sure this engine has seen its better days, and is probably in need of an overhaul, but if I am going to pull it, I will replace it with either the 345 or the 392.

From what I can so so far with IH, they are a plug and play type of engineering. It seems as long as you stick with an IH engine, all components are interchangable other than being able to put a four barrel carb on the 304 (which is what I believe the engine in my Scout is)

one question, is te 392 the same as the 304/345? With that I mean, do the valve covers, oil pan and other engine parts swap over? And will the 392 bolt right up to the current tranny?

Thanks for your help and input, its much appreciated, since I was usually a Chevy guy and have since found the light..

 

[Scoutboy74]

Well, hopefully there is still some life to be coaxed out of the engine. No quantity of the stuff you found in the pan is normal or good, but I think you get the picture, so I won't beat that dead horse any further.

The 266 and 304 engines have shorter strokes and therefore shorter decks and narrower valleys than the 345 and 392. The 266/304 intakes, cylinder heads and push rod covers are not interchangeable with 345/392 engines and vice-versa.

The 266/304 engines were never offered with 4bbl carbs from the factory. There are some aftermarket aluminum 4bbl castings for these engines, but those are in very limited supply.

The 345 came equipped most commonly with Holley 2bbl's or a 4bbl spreadbore carter thermoquad in the last years of sii production. The 392 was most commonly equipped with a 4bbl squarebore Holley, but could also be fitted with a t-quad or Holley 2bbl in rare cases. Intakes are completely swappable between 345 and 392 engines. Cylinder heads are a little more complex, and best for the novice to avoid 345/392 head swap scenarios. The 392 engine block has the same external dimensions as a 345, with the cylinder bore diameter being the primary, but not only important difference between the two.

The transmission bell bolt pattern is identical across the entire sv engine family. Valve covers and oil pans are completely swappable, as are the external and belt-driven accessories. Do keep in mind if you perform an engine swap, that the dual sump oil pan and corresponding oil pump/pickup assembly is necessary for clearing the Scout II solid front axle. This is a situation unique to the Scout II platform, so donor engines sourced from non-Scout IH vehicles must be converted with the necessary sii bottom pieces before installation into the Scout.