Digging the Binder out of a barn

SoDakScout

SoDakScout

New member
I am looking to dig a 1978-1980 traveller out of the barn that my old man has it stored in. I believe the last time it has been driven is well over 10 years ago. My plans are the regular Scout II mods, however I am wondering what precautions should be taken....

(1) what should be done to the engine before lightin fires?
(2) what fluids should I change before driving?
(3) what fluids should I change after a little warm up?

Also I am wondering what years the traveller was made?
(1) can a tail-gate be fitted as a regular Scout II, with a regular top?
(2) my Dad recalls the transmission being rebuilt professionally shortly before the Scout what stored; what kind of rust would be built up on the inside on newer gears that have not been "conditioned" like old worn gears.

I am new the the whole "blog" thing and really appreciate any response I get.
 
First, you need to read this

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...I-4-sv-engine-non-oiling-rocker-assembly.html

Second, you need to clean the gas tank... And the fuel lines; and probably rebuild the carb...

Maybe dislodging all the current residents (and their "belongings":shocked:) should be second... Remove wasp nests?

I would change all fluids before driving...

1976 - 1980

there were two models -- traveler (full fiberglass top) and terra (a small pickup - half cab w open bed. I assume they are interchangeable, but I do not know.

The traveler has a longer wheelbase (118" or 119") than a Scout II -- hence, the enclosed top is longer on a traveler. Do not know if anything is interchangeable between the two.

Do not know about the transmission sitting -- auto or manual?
 
Welcome to the forum! You've come to the right place to learn the finer points of these rigs. There's a ton of information here right at your finger tips. First thing you need to do is read until your eyes bleed. Like Robert said, the traveler/terra has a 118" wb while the regular sii has a 100" wb. A standard Scout II travel top, (all metal) will not span the entire length of the rear cargo area of a trav/terra being that it is...you guessed it...18" too short. A lower sii tailgate can be put on the traveler if you want to completely remove your fiberglass top and run topless. The other option is to find a terra top (front cab only) plus bulkhead, then remove the rear seat and carpeting thus converting the traveler into a terra pickup like Robert mentioned.
 
It is an automatic. I read the thread about the lube situation, and am wondering now what is the best way to get some lube on the bearings before initial start?
I got a pretty good idea of what I will need to do with the fuel system, however a ful carb rebuild seems a little much. Would a good cleaning be suficiant? Getting excited, and even more excited about dumping my money into this thing for a good end result.
 
Welcome sodakscout, always good to have more cornhuskers!!
As most all have said, read read read. There is alot of info here especally for starting a sv motor that has been sitting for so long. Quick answer to your question is to pull the dizzy and make a shaft that you can put in a drill and turn the oil pump. There is a good post that shows how to make one:http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/tool-talk/1032-oil-pump-drive-system.html
Mine was not that fancy, just a shaft with the end dressed to go in the pump and the other in the drill. You have to rotate the crank to align the oil ports, again this is addressed in in other posts, search and you will find.
I think there is even a post for starting a motor that has been sitting for a long time.

Anyway I see your from omaha but your login name is sodak,, so is the IH in sd?? I am only about 40 miles south of yankton sd. There are other members from sd and ne if you need help post up maybe help is in the area you need.

Ron
 
The downloadable .pdf file in post #3 of that thread explains he entire pre-lube process in great detail. It's a good idea to print out a hard copy of that so you have it under hood with you. I know it's exciting, but the worst thing you can do right now is get ants in your pants, hook up a battree and start bumpin' the thing over. Even one partial rotation by hand is enough to do bearing damage when they're bone dry. Rob's carb rebuild advice is not overkill. The thing's been sittin' for over ten years with varnished-ass fuel and frikkin' chupacabras breedin' inside of it. I gaurantee ya that thing is ten kinds of nastee inside. It needs to be totally broke down and thoroughly cleaned. There's all kinds of tiny fuel and air orifices inside that are way gummed up with varnish and crap. No way that thing will run right by just spritzing it with sum gum out and sayin' "git-r-dun!" now don't take any of this the wrong way. I'm not beatin' up on ya. You're new and excited about your new project as you should be. We've all been there, but you don't want to make the mistake of half-assing stuff. It'll really bite you in the butt later on.
As for the tranny, you'll want to at least bust the pan loose and drain out the old ass fluid. Be advised, that will be a messy job 'cuz there ain't no drain plug unless papa got fancy and installed an aftermarket pan back when bubba was potus. As long as the fluid doesn't smell burnt or look overly blackened from an overheat situation, or it doesn't come out looking like a strawberry milkshake from water contamination, there's no caveat's for a non-rotating trans unlike the engine. But, aged trans fluid does get old and a bit varnished over time too. So you might get lucky with some fresh dexron atf and a filter, or you might wind up with a sticky servo, in which case the unit will have to be pulled for bench overhaul. Yawl didn't think you were gunna just be able to kick the tyres an' lyte the fyres whilst sippin' yer java with yer fuzzy slippers on this mornin' did ya? Yer dealin' with a dead dawg that's been hibernatin' 'fer a long dam time. There's not much that's harder on a vehicle - any vehicle, than pure d neglect. Once moderator mayben wakes up from hiz beeyootee sleepeez...I keep tellin' him it ain't doin' no good...hez a gonna move this thread to the general tech category. There ain't nuthin' to do with fabrukaytin' on this deal. Good luck to ya man. Hey, if you've got a digital camera, it'd be a good idea to snap some nice underhood pics from all sides with the filter housing removed from the carb and post 'em up. We might be able to spot some other issues and head them off at the pass for you that way.
 
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Yep, the IH is in brookings, sd. I am satationed in omaha. There is an old IH mechanic there that I have been talking to. So I beleive first things are first. I need to locate a old distributer and get the engine wet again. Does anyone have a prefferance in carb kits? I think I will be able to complete that myself, but I am a little shakey on tuning the carb after it is all back together and installed on the intake. I really appreciate the help. I will get some pics uploaded as soon as I can. (sorry I started the thread in the wrong spot!!! Dont beat up on the new guy:yikes:)
 
It happens all the time. No biggie. Just don't be surprised when your thread shows up in a new location. As for what carb kit, we need some more specifics on the carb. These rigs ain't all carbon copies of one another. They came equipped differently. If you can focus your camera in on the front airhorn of the carb, depending on which one it is, there May be some numbers up there that will aid in making the proper id.
 
There are a couple of carb posts in the carb tech forum, but we need to know what carb you have. Pics and carb id numbers are a must.
As far as the dizzy I probably have a old dizzy you could make one out of, if your coming through here headed to brookings swing by and pick it up.
Ron
 
What also works fine in place of a diz shaft is a sacrificed long, standard screwdriver. Lop off the handle, chuck it in the drill and you're good to go.

Edit...make sure the shaft is substantially thick though. You don't want to chuck up a toothpick for this.
 
Just got off the phone with my brother...he said the carb is a two bbl Holley. Also this is a 77. Next weekend will have pics.
Thanks for the offer ron. I beleive that we have what it takes to do that job though. I will prolly need help in the future though. Thanks!
 
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Okay, that is probably A 2210 if It is the original carb. Check the smog cert requirements if any in the state you plan to register the rig. If not too draconian ala kalifornikate, you May not even want to fart around with that mixer too long. They're strictly an emissions carb and are a bit of a pain to fully renew. Not impossible by any stretch, but in many cases you're better off swapping to a modular Holley model 2300 list # 0-7448 if budget allows. That carb is pretty much pulg-n-play right out of the box and highly tuneable. But again, we're getting ahead of ourselves until we have positively id'd the current piece.
 
This is a great thread at a perfect time. Found out that a coworker has a 62 Scout 80 that has been parked on her property for about 10 years. They parked it because it needed new brakes and they havnt touched it since. Trying to see if her husband will trade it for a .30-30 winchester I have almost never used.
 
No prob sodak, glad to help if I can. Not to disagree with trevor the 2300's are the way to go but I have 2210's on both of my scouts and they work fine and if you know what to look for they are rebiuldable. Go through and read these posts in carb tech.
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/511-Holley-22xx-series-carb-stuff.html
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/512-Holley-23xx-series-modular-carb-stuff.html
Like we said there is a lot of reading to do:icon_wink:

these are some of the best carb info posts I have ever seen and from the "carb king" whom you will meet on here later: alias mm.
And luckly here in sd and ne we don't have emmisions regs we have to meet.:cornut:

ron
 
Every question/scenario being posed here is covered in great detail throughout these sub-forums! We're not gonna keep repeating what we have gone to so much trouble to develop and publish over the last three years, much of it is in stickees at the top of each sub-forum. We don't do "FAQ" on this forum.

Information regarding how to positively identify every known ignition system, carburetor, engine size, etc. Is part of every applicable sub-forum also.

Read!!! Read!!!! Search!! And then read some more!

Thread is moved to a more appropriate sub-forum....
 
scoutboy74 said:
what also works fine in place of a diz shaft is a sacrificed long, standard screwdriver. Lop off the handle, chuck it in the drill and you're good to go.

Edit...make sure the shaft is substantially thick though. You don't want to chuck up a toothpick for this.
Click to expand...

The oil pump drive tool needs to be slightly under 0.500" in diameter, otherwise, if you let it disengage, there is a good possibility that you will really damage the bronze distributor shaft bushing pressed into the block.

We have the tools in stock at ihon:

IH engine oil pump drive tool - International Scout parts

Though currently the online store shows to be "out of stock", a re-stock is in transit to the shop right now.
 
Out of lack of budget I made my own oil pump tool. It's crude but it works, I used an extra flat head screw driver I had (harbor freight special not a high dollar one) and cut the handle off with my angle grinder and a cut off wheel. Then ground the end so it would hold better in my drill. It fits prefect, has a large enough blade on the tip to fit into the slot, long enough tip it doesn't back out and booger up the brass bushing, and cost me about 95 pennies.

Fortunately I had two of the same screw driver laying around....

It was the biggest one from this set: - harbor freight tools - quality tools at the lowest prices
 
Update.

Here is the carb that I have on the traveller right now. From what I can tell it is a 2210. Hope to have it running by tomorrow afternoon.!!
 

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