1979 v345/T19w/3.56 Scout II [Documenting my parts vehicle]

My main project as I found it was a 1977 ss Scout II, 304/auto/3.56, converted into a hard top/hard door model and painted over black. I have the original ss top that came with the vehicle, but my oldest brother happened to throw it up like a sail once, and it just didn't work out so well. All the material is still there, though.

This "project" is a $200 investment towards parts. My Dad was close friends with the owner of a local campground, who obtained the vehicle when some kids drove it back from a mudding experience. The story was that they bottomed it out, walked back to the nearest residence, and had the guy push them out of their situation with a cat d-9. All I know is that I have two 3-4" dips that accurately represent the flat edge of a sharp dozer blade, as well as a crushed corner. It has the same axle setup and gearing as the Scout I can drive, as well as many other auxiliary parts that interchange between these vehicles, not to mention the (now former) park owner said he put a new starter on it, plumbed the fuel pump into a tank, and ran the motor for 15 minutes once, achieving a smooth idle. Then again, how many years ago was that?

I never figured out a number, mostly because I was too busy getting the vehicle in shape to roll onto a trailer, after hiking through the woods to find all four wheels still mounted to the rim and aired down. We outlaw'd back home with a suspicious trailer and a load that was sure to turn some heads, and we set it in the yard and mostly abused it internally, robbing seats, headliner & sidewalls, dash pieces, gauges, etc.


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Note: no shovels were harmed, etc.


When we got into the main project, we noticed a distinct lack of any seals under the hard top, and many failed seals elsewhere. That's when we first broke into this donor '79, and we literally tuna-canned the hard top with a crow bar/hammer dance (it was rusted to death anyway) and robbed the seals.

The hood was basically open since we bought it, and I'd never tried to shut it all the way. So naturally one day I've got it propped open and I let it drop without thinking. Mistake! The cable was frozen in place next time I got in to check something out. I tore apart the entire dash one day in pursuit of a way to get to the hood latch, but no luck.

So today, I went and dug up our immense crowbar that separated track from ties when the railway left my township (long before I was born) and snuck it into a small gap in the hood. Before long, I had a big enough gap to see through, and the weight of this pin puller was more than enough to jack the hood latch. Success, and now this thread.


Point of interest #1 - ac compressor:
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Since these things are apparently rebuildable, I think I'll save this piece.


Point of interest #2 - water brakes?!:
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Obvious water contamination, which I'm sure could be serviced... If I absolutely had to. Also noticed that the vacuum line from #8 intake runner to the brake booster fitting was missing entirely, as well as the threaded plug vacuum fitting. I fear for the internal condition of the manifold.


Point of interest #3 - distributor:
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I don't know much about this distributor, but I guess it's always an option if it ends up being in usable condition. If anyone could identify, that'd be helpful.


Now for getting to work: first thing I noticed were these small tubes running parallel and near the bottom edge of the valve covers. These are collectors that plug into the exhaust manifolds at front and rear, and I assume this is the advanced egr system the smog pump supplants.

Here's me supporting the idea of a smog pump:
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Free doorstop! I won't pay shipping.


After I got that out of the way, I found out what happened to most all of the hair I scraped off of the last deerskin I tanned:
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Looks like someone had a cozy hideaway.



And for the thread's sake, here's pictures of the carburetor.

Driver's side:
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I noticed that the actuation of the throttle was sloppy - the mechanical secondary actuator kicked in long before the metal tab (whose purpose is to actuate the secondaries) made contact. I'm assuming varnish/rust/ratpiss/ghosts could be the issue there.


Passenger's side:
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While I don't entirely understand how the two-plate choke works on this vehicle, I can appreciate the heated choke stove. This 345 is looking real appetizing, but of course, at this point I'm not holding my breath for a happy discovery since we found it beneath leaves.



After digging around the carburetor and checking out its layout, I decided to probe deeper into the unknown. Finding an appropriate 1/2" socket (and then his shorter 1/2" brother), I went to town on the driver's side valve cover. The smog pump collectors I mentioned before are directly in line with the lower valve cover bolts.

Having no universal makes this a little challenging, especially since taiwanese tool makers conspired to create extensions that are the perfect length for interference. However, I beat it around enough that all the bolts came out on their own accord, and this is what I found:

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:gringrin: imagine my surprise when I popped open the valve covers and found minimal (read: less than 1/32") sludge built up on the cover itself. and right before I spilled ages of peeled paint, dust, whitetail hair, and engine boogers all over the rocker assembly, I noticed it was near sterile and just beautiful! Of course, then I had to ruin it with a rain of slow-motion binder trash.


Then I went to town with a grease rag, a toothbrush, and some other items (a professional set of mulberry twigs & long honey locust thorns) to remove as much of the debris as possible. I tried to pay careful attention to keep from getting anything down into the pushrod holes/oil drains. I felt awfully down about all of the trash, and some still exists between the stamped rockers and rocker shaft, but I guess that's what a thorough tear-down and cleanup is for, later on.

Also important to note: I ran a small rifle-barrel brush into the rear oil passage, and brought out surprisingly little buildup. Suddenly the bits of trash still trapped in the rockers didn't worry me so much - I need to get my hands on cleaning out a rocker shaft anyhow.


Regardless of the problem of cost, this supposed 76k mile setup isn't looking so bad. I'm going to try and figure a harbor freight 1/2 ton engine stand into my budget (and look up the IH modification), and perhaps a good load balancer for pulling the motor/tranny. And maybe I'll finally break down for a reproduction IH service manual. Even if I can't afford to rebuild it now, I could still sterilize/clean out the transmission (after finding an appropriate service manual of some sort) and get my hands dirty cleaning up this motor in general. I May only have one coil, but if this motor looks this good all the way through, I might have a good deal on my hands.



I always wanted a 3-speed with granny low anyhow. Who knows, maybe this thread will develop some time in the near future! I'm definitely crossing my fingers.
 
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You and pop got a great parts rig going there, it's loaded with "stuff"!

That one is a "kalifornia" emissions-spec unit, thus the carter thermoquad carb and the prestolite electronic distributor which is a good piece to have around!

If you run into the "in-op hood release" deal again regarding a Scout II, the simple deal is bend a coat hanger or welding rod into a "hook", crawl underneath with a flashlight, and stick the hook up to the latch mechanism and using some manipulation, ya can operate the release that way.

If the compressor is not seized, it's primary use would be for a conversion to an engine driven air compressor. Or...as a "core" for exchange on a a/c compressor is ya ever decide to set up a functional ac on something. They are simply not worth tearing into and attempting rebuild on your own, I'm very experienced in dealing with those york/cci units and all I'll do with 'em is swap assemblies or in some cases swap out the clutch.

That master cylinder is a "core" for exchange, I'd never attempt a rebuild of one like that myself, the bores are gonna be bad.

That motor compartment is remarkably un-molested! What you see is an a.I.r. (air injection) system which is an emissions add-on.

The thermoquad carb needs much luv! Those are not the carb for a novice to learn carb service on! For info on those, go here:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/1390-carter-thermoquad-spreadbore-stuff.html

The front butterfly in the air horn is the choke plate. The rear butterfly is actually a regulated air valve which is an essential item in the overall operation of the secondary side of the tq and also the rochester quadrajet, both are "air valve secondary" systems. You can't make the secondary on that carb actually operate unless the engine is running and the choke pulloffs are functional. It is a very complicated system, works great when properly functioning and adjusted.

The engine sure appears to be an excellent candidate for teardown and freshen! Much nicer than many we see around here, at least the oil had been changed on occasion at some point in time!

As for the shovel, is that the Missouri version of a "snake stick"??? I prefer a 20 gauge to separate the head and body onna permanent basis!
 
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If the compressor is not seized, it's primary use would be for a conversion to an engine driven air compressor. Or...as a "core" for exchange on a a/c compressor is ya ever decide to set up a functional ac on something. They are simply not worth tearing into and attempting rebuild on your own, I'm very experienced in dealing with those york/cci units and all I'll do with 'em is swap assemblies or in some cases swap out the clutch.

I've actually put a lot of thought into one of those 'one-day-I'm-gonna-build-this' projects. I decided I wanted some form of compressor, and originally I was considering pto feasibility. Now, though, this ac compressor raises some questions.

What kind of oiling system (and possibly a dryer?) would you need if you were gonna convert it into a service compressor, for airing up tires and blowing off the valve covers before removal?

Could the compressor handle building up pressure in a small tank located somewhere where it could be easily drained (such as an oversized brushguard)?

Am I just wrenching on a pipe dream with this idea?

The thermoquad carb needs much luv! Those are not the carb for a novice to learn carb service on!

I remember spending quite a bit of time looking into your tq thread and trying to keep track of different inspection points in my mind. Since I've got the hood open, should I even break it down to inspect internal rot, or just leave it until I can afford to have it shipped to your locality? My Dad was actually just talking about trying to get this 345 pre-lubed/running as soon as spring hits.

That brings up another question - how "usable" are the tq mixers over long-term? What kind of maintenance can be expected to keep it from encountering typical problems (nozzle wells) and becoming a rebuild case again?

The engine sure appears to be an excellent candidate for teardown and freshen! Much nicer than many we see around here, at least the oil had been changed on occasion at some point in time!

To be completely honest, I think I'd rather have this 345/t19 in my drivable Scout II, which makes your reman work on my IH-list 2300 seem worthless! I believe I would at least have the presence of mind to get the engine up to operating temp several times a year, but then again my current degree sought will put me halfway across the state within a year and a half. Not to mention I don't exactly have the facilities to swap them out now, or mount up the 304 on a stand.

..unless you count a low-geared chain hoist in a questionably safe mounting location, and a motor stand that won't fit - yet - to be the "right tools!" both located at my uncle's shop.

As for the shovel, is that the Missouri version of a "snake stick"??? I prefer a 20 gauge to separate the head and body onna permanent basis!

The shovel was actually there just in case I got a little too wrench-happy and bolts started flying. Then at least I'd have something to clean up all the parts afterwards. And I try not to shoot my snakes in the head, they're harder to clean from the tail forward.
 
I finally got around to removing and disassembling the prestolite unit in this rig yesterday, and got some pics of the internals. Unfortunately, I've lost the sd card containing this mess.

First significant discovery was the 'classic' (read: weak) screws used to hold the breaker plate assembly inside the body. One of these lost its head in the confusion, so the assembly took a little prying to remove.

I did discover the interesting design of these prestolite units, and I considered swapping it over, until I sucked on the vac advance. It's completely shot, no surprise there. However, neither of the mechanical advance weights seemed to be stuck (though the one with the heavier spring is definitely more difficult to move) and aside from thirtysome years of dust and micro-debris, the internal condition of the unit was good.

One thing I did notice was a significant accumulation of sludge in the hole located on the "wet" bottom end of the distributor. Now I doubt the cleanliness of the 345's sump pickup and lower crankcase in general - someone musta been using pennzoil high-deposit lubriwater on the new-age 10,000mi oil change schedule.



It dawned on me while replacing the distributor that I don't really have any business owning one IH vehicle, much less two. The reasons have been piling up in my head for a while now, all pertaining to my driveable '77:

  • I probably have less than a gallon of fuel in my plastic fuel tank, and I wouldn't doubt that a significant amount of moisture has found a nice place to condense in there as well. I say this because the tank tends to leak raw fuel when I fill it up 100%, but only until the filler neck is emptied out - judging by the nature of my leak, it's coming from around the sending unit, and I'm not sure if it's safe for me to use any kind of hardening sealer around the sender.
  • Because of this leak, I haven't ever replaced the fuel tank's shield.
  • I am fairly sure at least two body mounts are toast, always squeaking.
  • Judging by the way my shroud fits around the radiator, I am one weak engine mount away from shroud loss/fan damage/shock load on the new water pump.
  • I still haven't dropped my driver's side exhaust to try and compensate for the spectacular exhaust shop jack-it-up-as-hard-as-you-can welding job that caused a failed donut gasket and prevented a clean replacement on my end. I can't even hear the motor well enough to know what's going on due to the leak.
  • My door seals (now thoroughly black-goo-sealed) still leak, but my roll-on weathercoat still holds the water in the floor... For now.
  • Motor is still dirty (the clean spots come from spilled oil getting wiped up)
  • The underside of the vehicle was never touched, even though I own five cans of upopened undercoat.
  • The front diff cover gasket is no good, oil has leaked out, and I still haven't even taken the ten seconds to check and verify that I still have some kind of gear lube (really, I've never even looked into the axles any deeper than the "3.56" tag.)
  • I don't drive it enough to keep it "in service."
  • I've never dropped the pan to have a look-see.

I'm overwhelmed by all of the things I can see wrong with my build, like the fact that I didn't do so much as poke at the frame to check for bad rust, or pop open the axles and re-lube. I feel ashamed to say I own it, because I sure as hell haven't taken care of it the way it shoulda been.

Truth be told, I even need to knock out the new rocker panels that I installed because a decision was made to remove the top due to heat, and then the body wasn't even jacked for the install! It now has a slight drop towards the rear, and you can imagine how fun installing the hard top was after that!

I guess when I look around this forum, I get the impression that everybody is getting stuff done... Besides me! I am a neglectful owner, pure and simple.


Hopefully I can find the sd card and post pictures in this thread about the distributor. Until then.
 
Bein' a bit hard on yourself ain't ya? Ownin' these rigs isn't life, it's just a small part of it. Real life often gets in the way, for everybody. Your a smart dude and you've enumerated an extensive laundry list of shit that needs to be done to your ride...which makes it no different than most of the other piles around here at least at some point in their storied existence. One thing at a time man. Prioritize. I know you're plenty smart enough to reach this conclusion without me saying it, but I thought you could use a fresh perspective.
 
bein' a bit hard on yourself ain't ya? Ownin' these rigs isn't life, it's just a small part of it. Real life often gets in the way, for everybody. Your a smart dude and you've enumerated an extensive laundry list of shit that needs to be done to your ride...which makes it no different than most of the other piles around here at least at some point in their storied existence. One thing at a time man. Prioritize. I know you're plenty smart enough to reach this conclusion without me saying it, but I thought you could use a fresh perspective.

It all boils down to the fact that my friend took out a $3k loan to frame-off redo his j**p the right way, and mine was done as quickly as possible, as cheap as possible, and with no prior experience with this type of vehicle.

In my eyes, this sorta thing is life, because making things work has always been my primary goal. I'm failing my freshman year of higher education because I'd rather be a greasecaked mechanic than some mathematical engineer figuring things out on paper. I guess it ultimately feels like the one thing I enjoy, the one type of challenge I absolutely love to wear myself out on trying to face, is reflected in a vehicle that still needs all this love that I couldn't afford to give it.

I guess my next priority is to slosh 5g of fuel into the tank and take it on a gasohol run today, get it hot, and at least figure out if the ignition timing is exactly where I want it. I've fooked with it since last time it felt "right" concerning drivability, so I'll have to do the drive-stop-adjust-repeat method on the way to the gas station.
 
Finally, I got around to picking at the old bones in my yard:
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As you can see, the thermoquad (#6-2141 for reference) is disassembled. This was giving me trouble, until I found the two screws underneath the primary choke plate, camo'd with carbon buildup.... :icon_rotate:

here's a shot of the nozzle wells from the backside:
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They feel solid but I haven't leak-tested yet, definitely gonna spend some alkeegas on scientific research tomorrow, bright and early.


Here's the air horn, complete with a very fresh looking gasket:
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This pic doesn't show it well, but everything is internally clean except for black residues of a bygone era.

Edit: the picture of the throttle plate didn't work correctly, due to a camera issue. It is considerably more grungy than the upper aluminum air horn, but looks fairly easily cleaned & sterilized.

I now realize the complexity of this carburetor makes it a challenge for a guy with virtually zero fuel systems experience - I'm already wondering where to source the tiny, fuel-capable transfer line in case I break it somehow, and I don't know what to say about the suspect metering rod. I still need to make sure both floats won't sink, and on top of all this I have to ensure that the linkages get hooked up right, if I can even find those strange wire retainers I removed.

So here's a toast to taking the first step, and hopefully this amateur carb guy can get it done with a little professional advice.
 
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Camera issue resolved, here's the really cleeeen bowl that I 'et my cabbage & corned brisket out of earlier:

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And the less cleen throttle block:

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I've been on a 56k high-speed-search for tq info, and I'm devouring as much as possible (& pertinent) about this mixer. One site even claims they're "easy" to rebuild... Just like it's e-zee to fire up an ol IH and speed off, shurrley!


Hopefully these pictures can help old man mixer steer my mizzurri wheels in the right direction on this here dern fool carbarooter. I've got the 7-year supply of cutoff plain steel guitar strings I knew would come in handy (no matter how many times I got a musical splinter) and I'm ready to start pickin' out passages.


I might even spring for a mityvac :yikes:
 
No fookin' way a tq is an "easy" rebuild! I've seen that written over and over (usually some scruuhaid magazine article author)...who ever shits out that kinda verbage has never actually done one and then tested it!!! Every one I do eats my lunch, these units were designed to be thrown way and not rebuilt as they were an emissions component.

All correct parts however will be in a standard hygrade kit, p/n 657c, including a new nylon tube for the accel pump system along with the brass check valve system. Ain't that about a bogus pos design??? That kit will contain parts for all variations (including the units with altitude comp and electric fuel shut-off), so many of the pieces are not used on the carb you have.

Throw nothing away form the old unit as you will need to match the gaskets exactly along with select the proper "o" rings used in the fuel wells, that kit will have three different pair of rings to chose from, all are different in cross-section.

Keep in mind, this shit ain't life, it's a hobby (at least for now!). It becomes life it'sownself once ya start trying to make a livin' doin' mechanic work since it's do it right the first time or starve to death on comebacks! And always have one vehicle settin' outside the shop that runs and that you haven't worked on so when the shit hits the fan, ya can make a clean gitaway and move on to yore next career path!
 
...including a new nylon tube for the accel pump system along with the brass check valve system. Ain't that about a bogus pos design???
I had no idea what you meant about the checkball stuff until today, when I looked at the accel pump and realized I needed to disassemble it. I've been using pipe cleaners and toothpicks to get as much grunge as possible of the tq. I tried a little bit of prying and beating on an old razor blade, but I can't get the "bottom" of the pump to remove. I don't want to bend it, so I'm gonna wait until I get some guidance here.

I took a dropper and carefully applied fuel to just the nozzle wells, until it was visible at either orifice. For the last three hours, not a single drip has gotten through. I intend on re-wetting for a longer period of time to simulate soak conditions. I've got all sealing surfaces as clean as a whistle, but some of these carb passages are a bit iffy. The external is still in need of a solvent scrubbing but I figure if the inside is clean enough to meter fuel, that's all that matters.

I guess I just want to know what else I should check before actually purchasing the kit, setting up a prelube on the 345, and snapping everything back together?I really want to get this motor out on a stand and work through it, but I don't exactly have the means at this point, and I'll be moving into dorms in about a month - to learn about fookin' with planes.

There's a chance that tinkering with the 345 May get postponed until winter break, because I can't commute 2 hours home just to mess with junkiron and drive 2 hours back. If that's the case, I'm aiming for dropping the pan, inspecting the lower end a little, and making a decision as to wether or not it's worth swapping the engine. If it does end up to be good news, I'll be trying to find a service manual so that I can drain & inspect the d20 and the t19 "wide." the entire drivetrain is the intended target if it's in good shape, then I'll have a 304/727 on reserve.

So for now, aside from the accel pump and finding a brass float to eliminate this plastic carb kit float, what else do I need to verify on the carb before tackling a refreshing?
 
A new replacement accel pump check valve is included in the service kit. That item simply pushes into it's counterbore and is retained by friction. Yours is retained also by corrosion!

Use a blunt punch on the end of the accel pump plunger where it sticks through the carb top and lightly tap it down, that will pop out the checkvalve and the accel pump element can be removed for cleaning and cup replacement

congratulations on the change in direction regarding your future career choices!.
 
One major oversight:

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I have a feeling that idle mixture screws aren't easy to come by. As you can see, this one is unacceptable.

I knocked out the checkvalve just now, and I see now what you mean about a screwy design there. I broke one of the plunger's four ears for retaining the rubber cup. It still has enough grab to hold a new rubber cup, but that doesn't make it any less broke'd!

The carb is now as clean as I can get it, all passages flow liquid freely, and I'm apparently one mixture screw, one hygrade kit, and an $18 pair of brass floats away from rebuilding this unit. I dug the metering rods out of the parts bag and set them aside for protection. The needle seats look clean; is there any reason to remove them other than to install fresh seats from the kit?
 
I have some of the idle mixture needles (used), once ya have a parts list made up for certain, I'll send ya a fresh pair. Describe the very tip of the tapered end to me...does it come to a sharp point, a kinda "blunt" rounded point, or a definite flat tip like the sharp point was ground off perpendicular to the needle shank???

And...since I'm feeling sorry for ya...I'll send ya a fresh plastic fuel bowl that has been repaired with the right epoxy. I promise...if you grab those wells in your bowl where the white epoxy line is, you can easily break 'em out. I'd not jeopardize your first rebuild of a majorly problematic carb by risking that. When ya get the fresh bowl assembly, just mail me that one back and I'll recycle for someone else!

We wanna keep ya goin' down the right path son!
 
I have some of the idle mixture needles (used), once ya have a parts list made up for certain, I'll send ya a fresh pair. Describe the very tip of the tapered end to me...does it come to a sharp point, a kinda "blunt" rounded point, or a definite flat tip like the sharp point was ground off perpendicular to the needle shank???

The actual metering portion from the end of the threads is ~13/32" long all told. I would describe it as "blunt" because I am used to much sharper points, but the surface of the tip is just under 1/32" in diameter. There is no significant rounding or obvious "flat," such as a ground point, so I'd say it's either a relatively sharp point or a very thin 'blunt' point.

and...since I'm feeling sorry for ya...I'll send ya a fresh plastic fuel bowl that has been repaired with the right epoxy.
I almost took offense at the "feeling sorry" part, but then I read about these carbs eating the lunch of other experienced mixer magicians - and I think I now understand! I just tried to break one of the wells off and I failed. However, I would be more than happy to send you my bowl as a core in exchange, but I would prefer shipping to you before you send out the refreshed unit. This way I can send you the brokedick mix adjuster as well, and you can be sure of which breed I need.

Thanks for all of the help, as usual! The right path is simply laid before my feet.
 
That is the best idea ya got son!

There are at least four variations of the plastic fuel bowls also! All that I have ready to go here are correct for the tq that came onna Scout II.

And I need to take some pics of the various idle mixture screws and post for comparison/I.d. Anyway.

Ya still have my ship-to address? If not:

42790 leaburg dr.
Leaburg, or 97489.
 
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