Help with carb i.d.

T

TXFireman

New member
Hey. New to this site but seems like this might be the place to be. I looked at the thread about "22** carbs" and thought I had mine pegged for a 2245, but there are a few differences and I need some help so I can order the correct rebuild kit.

Background: not a mechanic, but learn quick. I bought this 75 Scout from a buddy who took it in trade for some work. Thought it had a sticking valve. Later, after I had the heads reworked, new cam, lifters, fuel pump, distributor, points, plugs, wires, and coil, it still stumbles a little on accelleration. ( I did allthis myself except for the head work). I had some pretty significant backfires after I put it all together, and want to rule out carb problems now. The first start of the day always requires a small shot of ether. After that, it starts fine the rest of the day no matter how long it sits.

Problems:
1. The port on the side where I think I am supposed to hook my vaccum advance has no vaccum. After reading the other thread it looks like it has the wrong gasket and this port is open. See pic

2. Has no port on the upper left front like the ones in the other thread. I believe this was called the bowl vent?

3. Has the hic (?) under the plate on the back

4. Is there a napa part number for a rebuild kit for this thing?

Thanks in advance for any help. Look forward to rebuilding this Scout with help from this site.
 

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Did you find a Holley list number on the carb? 4 numbers or 4 numbers and a character

also, an IH part number -- something like nnnnnnc9n

I cannot read the stamped numbers in your pictures, but it look like they are "bottom left" in pic #6.

Michael mayben will probably be able to recognize the carb, but the numbers help as there are "many" variations from what I have read..
 
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There is a 3483 on the lower part of the bowl on the front, but I don't know if tht's what you are referring to.
 
Welcome to ihon ! You are member #999! We'll hit 1000 members sometime today most likely...quite a big deal for such a short time in existence! And this forum is the place for correct, factual information about IH schnizz, if we ain't got an answer, we'll git one!

And I got all kindsa stories about van! My home is anywhere between abilene and texarkana, went ta a&m there in commerce! Got lottsa binderbuds in yore parta tejas! My daughter and grands live just up the road in avery (off u.s. 82).

Yore carb is a 2245 with the long power valve and the "short" power valve actuator.. And it's the model with the problematic "plug" on the top where the power valve piston vacuum chamber is sealed when manufactured.

Review all the stuff regarding the 22xx carb issues that berd has been messin' with. Same issue for you most likely, but slightly different configuration. The 2245 is actually easier to scruu with! See this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/1808-backfiring.html

Ya need to first test the power valve actuator same as I show in that thread. And if the piston action is punky, then remove it and polish and clean the bore. Then use a dollop of jb weld from the smith family up there in sulphur springs to seal the top of the actuator chamber where it'll be leaking vacuum.

Your carb is a "reman"...see the residue of a sticker on the right hand side of the bowl in your pics?? And no doubt some fuckin' remanner glass beaded away the list number and IH p/n. But that don't matter, we know what it is.

For a kit, you can use that standard hygrade p/n : 929a. I try and keep napa outta my life if at all possible. That one will have the correct main body gasket and throttle body gasket for yore carb. It will also have a new heat dam-type base gasket. It will not have the correct replacement power valve element though. That type power valve can be disassembled for cleaning and is not normally replaced unless rotted away or damaged by the po.

So far, the only way I've been able to source a replacement for that 2245 power valve is obtain a standard hygrade kit p/n: 928c and use only the valve from the kit.
 
In this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/511-Holley-22xx-series-carb-stuff.html

Post #6, you will see the location and a comparison of where the carb I.d. Numbers for the 22xx series are found. Since yore carb core was a previous reman, the commercial operator put a sticker on the main body for id purposes as the core was most likely a "conversion". The residue I can see in your pic of the sticker is not the kinda sticker that Holley woulda used if they did the reman in bowling green.
 
And to confirm that other thread, the vaccum port on the right side(where the choke actuator is) is for the vaccum advance on the distributor? It is open right now making 0 vaccum, the rear port was holding about 20 at idle. I guess the correct gasket will fix the 0 vaccum on the ported vaccum port? I have my distributor hooked to the rear port now.
 
txfireman said:
and to confirm that other thread, the vaccum port on the right side(where the choke actuator is) is for the vaccum advance on the distributor? It is open right now making 0 vaccum, the rear port was holding about 20 at idle. I guess the correct gasket will fix the 0 vaccum on the ported vaccum port? I have my distributor hooked to the rear port now.
Click to expand...

Sorry man, I overlooked the vacuum port question, all this smoke from the burn piles is gittin' to me!

You are correct regarding that vacuum port feeding from a "leak currently.

On your carb, that port connects to a tiny hole just above the throttle plate in the throttle body. That should provide about 2>4"hg of vacuum at idle.

On other variations of these carbs (2210/2210c, that vacuum feed is still considered a "ported" or "timed" vacuum source, but instead of a small hole above the throttle plate, you will find a "slot" about 3/16" long that runs vertically up the /down the bore. That design provides a slightly greater vacuum signal in the same manner, let's it become "stronger" a bit earlier in throttle plate rotation.

All that ported vacuum stuff/nuances has to to do with variations in distributor vacuum advance, and overall distributor calibration for each engine series dependiong upon the emissions level it was originally produced under for the "49 state" stuff. The kalifornikate versions were even a separate setup, that is why swapping various versions of carbs, distributors, eyc. Can create drivability issues if the stuff doesn't "match". The distributors, like the carbs, are not "all the same" as many believe!

Running the distributor from manifold vacuum is not a problem in the short term as long as ya can get the "power timing" scenario dialed in and not have any partial throttle/load detonation issues.

Even when ya have this carb running correctly, ya still might see close to 0"hg at idle at that port, but the slightest movement of the throttle plate will increase vacuum signal immediately.

Also...I see the cover is missing from the hic valve on your carb. Do you have that item? It's retained with two small sheet metal/self-threading screws. If ya don't have the cover, the valve won;t stay in position and seal...result...one more vacuum leak to correct. If ya need a cover for the hic, I'm sure I have a few from the scrap pile and I'll be more than happy ta send ya one...nc!
 
Yep. Still have that plate. I took it off to see if there was anythingunder it when I was looking through the other thread trying to I.d. It myself. I have my kit ordered, I'll try to photodocument the process.
 
Update to my mess

k, after fedex ground took 2 weeks to get the hygrade 929a to me, I got into the unit. Put it back together, the Scout actually started right up!!

But wait

it started running rough, and gas started pouring out of the bowl vent on the front of the carb. Pouring. Never done that before ?!?

I went back and looked at the thread "22xx carb stuff". I definitely have components of both a 2210 and a 2245. It was id'd as a 2245 from the exterior shots I sent in, and has the 2245 power valve actuator, but the shot of the bowl with the actual power valves.....2210.

Now, I am not a good mechanic. If I was to want to start anew and go buy a new, 2 bbl carb, what would you reccomend?
 
If fuel is emerging from the bowl vent, then the float level is too "high" or trash elsewhere in the fuel delivery system has made it's way to the needle/seat and is preventing it from shutting off.

Or...the float is "heavy", a very common issue regarding the nitrophyl floats and the exposure to gasahol over the years and now the higher dose e10 fuels.

The bowl cover of the carb can be removed from the carb with it mounted if ya do it carefully. You will find the fuel level very high. Simply "lower" the float level...I don't use the "spec" for that adjustment if it looks stupid, the fuel level that matters is the one that works!
 
Through deductive reasoning, theory, troubleshooting, I couldn't figure it out. I gave up and consulted the..........instructions!

The float was all out of whack. Got it put together and took a spin down the road. Seems to still be bogging just a tad at wot. I'll have to retune it with the vaccum guage now that the right gasket is in.

I don't know what the deal is with the parts from two different carbs.

I know some of my questions on here May make me seem like I'm in over my head, that's because I am, but it sure is a neat feeling to drive something that I took apart and put back together myself (with lots of advice).
 
This ain't so hard after all is it????

Have ya done the "power time" deal yet??? I think what ya mean when ya say "bog" at wot is actually a surge (lean surge/misfire).

But...before going back to the carb for some finetuning (maybe)...power time the motor and see if that don't fix it!

If it makes no difference, then we'll git down to the cajonekuttin' on the carb.
 
I don't know what "power time" is. I used a timing light, and with the vaccum advance unplugged, set it about 8 degrees, when you open up the throttle it goes up to about 24 or so.

I don't know if that's what you are talking about. If I floor it, it boggs a little, I can let up on the throttle abd it clears up. I have a little soot in the tailpipes, and a guy behind me said it blew a little black smoke when I floor it, but not cruising.
 
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