2300 progress

bobn

New member
Not a big deal but thought I mention my progress so far. Working on mounting two different 2300 on my scouts. Both are 304s both 727s, one is a 2x and one is a 4x4.
...as I solve one issue I jump on the other rig and do the exact same thing while it is fresh in my feeble mind.
....so far I have found the big eye hole is definately the one to use. That way I get full plate opening.
... for some odd reason one intake needed a spacer under the carb so the linkage didnt hit anything . also I sandwiched a half inch thick piece of iron under the throttle cable bracket on that rig . so now it pulls nice and straight and not at a angle . bobn
 
Missed this one Bob!

The manifold ya had to use the spacer on is a real early one, maybe for a 266??? Those are quite a bit different on either side casting-wise adjacent to the choke area and the throttle lever set-up. The later manifolds had a redesign done on the casting...iirc, at the same time the re-design was done for incorporating egr??? And they did away with that "vacuum tree" behind the carb.

I have one of those manifolds onna '64 1300 flatbed out back witha 304.

Another prime example that disproves that urban myth..."all sv motors are the same"!
 
Hm we are out of the artic blast and in just the deep freeze. Progress continues. I purchased one of thoose dorky brass swivel fuel fitting and the return springs. I am trying to phrase this politely and I cannot figure out a way. The only thing I can think is I pitty my next door customer. The fitting was 22 bucks and the springs were 9.
..next is to change the fouled plugs to either autolite 85 or 86s. I will then prime the carb through the vent and fire that momma up. Bobn
 
I've never heard of anyone using autolite 86 in an sv motor. I'd stick with the known quantity, that being the 85's.
 
Hm, thanks for your thoughts, my reasonning is as follows>
this is not warm country. We ran actual temps as low as 38 below. Not wind chill either. We never got above single digits all of jan. It was 10 below this morn. Then also this is a glorified lawn tractor. (for firewood etc) so never driven down the road long enough to keep the plugs clean.
....the 86s are just a little hotter plug so they will work fine in my application. Bobn
 
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The plot thickens> after running it I now have some more work to do. The heat riser is messed up, the intake never gets warm. Hope some moron didnt block the passage way off. Hopefully its just the riser it self. Second the pump shot is way to lame. Bobn
 
Heat riser was gutted. Got lucky and the bolts actually unscrewed with wrenches. Installed the new one.
....got some run time in. Moved the pump cam screw to number 1 position. It was the orange colored one. Had some bad plug wires. It was back firing through the exhaust. Got four of the plug wires swapped, got the other side to go.
,,,fwiw, I just used my spare. So now I will order another. In cold country a heat riser is mandatory. When I was a kid I remember throwing them out, never realized what they did then, lol.bobn
 
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Well fouled another set of plugs. However both are running great. Not to reinvent the wheel I have decided a few thing> 60 series jets are too large, the plugs foul out fast with them. 50s seem to be fine.
...the oarnge pump cam is too small. Slight bog and occasionally back fire when accelarating. Needs a larger pump shot on the one carb.
...finally for any of the carb nuts> whats up with two gaskets between the power valve and the housing? Screwup? Or intended? Bobn
 
...finally for any of the carb nuts> whats up with two gaskets between the power valve and the housing? Screwup? Or intended? Bobn

It May be intended but can cause unintended consequences.

I just installed 2 650 dp 4150 on a blown 350 Chevy. Both carbs had issues that I traced to the pv holding the metering block away from the carb body (left witness marks). It caused a severely fat condition. I found the extra pv gasket was causing the pv to protrude out and bump the metering block. Removing it fixed the fat condition. I say power valve but they were really pv eliminator plugs that my buddy had installed and replaced the two gaskets. No pv on a heavily blown motor.

I don't know if variations in carb machine work make the extra gasket necessary but not on these 2 4150's
 
Hm, thanks for the insight. Now I want to go take my 3310 apart and look inside. Same as you, more than one auto/truck interest! Lol, go figure. Bobn
 
The power valve used on Holley modular carbs uses only a single gasket. However, in many cases I find two if some dweeb who don't know shit has worked on the carb in the past.

The "original" Holley power valve design used either two, three, or four small holes in the body, that valve design must use the gasket with the three "locating tabs".

The current design power valve ( true Holley-supply parts) is referred to as the "picture window" design since it incorporates either two or four large rectangular holes in the body. That valve must use the round gasket with a round center hole designed to fit over the shoulder on that valve.

Sometimes when the power valve is removed, that vegetable fiber gasket actually shears into two equal parts so it appears to be two separate gaskets.

The "two stage" power valves have likewise changed over the years, the earlier ones used the "three lobe" gasket, the current versions use the picture window gasket.

This pic shows both types of power valves. On the left is the early valve with the four very small ports and the three lobe gasket fit into the counterbore.

On the right are two variations of a picture window power valve, one has two large windows, the other one has four windows.

Only Holley-manufactured/supplied power valves will carry indentification regarding the setpoint for the particular item. The "other"power valves found in housebrand kits such as napa and standard hygrade won't have any id so there is no way to determine what their setpoint is without using a test setup with a mityvac. And the housebrand valves also will not be the picture window type for the most part. The napa valves are not made anything like a jinyoowine Holley power valve!
 

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