Mishmash of questions for an 800

[PAscout800]

Hey everyone, it’s my first time posting on the forum. I have been reading quite a bit on scouts (this forum and others) and figured I would see if you all could help me out here.

‘67 scout 800
Front and rear drum brakes
Holley carb
Runs and idles, drives, stops with a ton of pressure

1) I cannot find out which rebuild kit to get for the carb. There are like 5 numbers on the carb and mounting plate. I think it’s a 2300? The numbers on the carb are as follows-
3975-1
6R 3250 3D
4412-2
2913
5925 3

2) lots of opinions on this apparently..do I keep it manual choke? Do I get the electronic choke added? Do I spend up and get the whole kit and kaboodle? What’s your reasoning?

3) is it worth going to front disc and keep rear drum? My brakes “work” now, but are incredibly stiff and the pedal moves like 1/4inch. I will get a new master cylinder and maybe brake lines, but do I need a brake booster as well?

4) pcv valve setup. I pulled the pcv valve from the top end and it there were zero guts or diaphragm. I couldn’t get the one out below it near the valley, but that was a thread in valve as well. Every single one I have seen online is not threaded, but smooth with a grommet.

5) they put a small electric fuel pump instead of the larger on in the engine bay. Am I missing out by having this one instead?

6) besides plugs, boots, distributor/rotor, any other info or tips on what I should get for a smooth running engine would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[Winchested]

4412-2 is the list number of the carb. Looks like OEM holley 2300. Buy a full rebuilt kit and ultrasonic clean it to get all the small passages clean. The upper "PCV" isnt a PCV but a fresh air flame arrestor and it should have steel mesh inside.

The grommet style PCV you mention is from later engines. Yours you can likely unscrew and clean in mineral spirits and make sure the spring and check ball still seal.

Assume manual brakes?

A brake booster kit is available whether from IHPA or D&C extreme. But get yours running properly and then decide. There is some fabrication involved.

Properly working drums work just fine. Especially in the rear.

 

[PAscout800]

Really appreciate the information!

Questions regarding your info for the PCV setup.

1) is that setup even correct as is? I thought that flame arrestor would be hooked up to fresh air coming from the air filter. There is a spot coming off my air filter but that fits a hose running somewhere to the bottom of the engine.

2) would I just buy the mesh screen and place it inside the current? I can’t seem to find the whole unit unless I’m simply missing something.

 

[Scoutboy74]

A list 4412 is not an OEM carb. It's an aftermarket 500 cfm carb primarily intended for high revving, high performance applications. It's really too much carb for most any IH engine. It's difficult if not impossible to make them run right across the spectrum on an SV8.

 

[PAscout800]

A list 4412 is not an OEM carb. It's an aftermarket 500 cfm carb primarily intended for high revving, high performance applications. It's really too much carb for most any IH engine. It's difficult if not impossible to make them run right across the spectrum on an SV8.

What would be my options then at this point?

 

[Scoutboy74]

Your least expensive option would be to service what you have and see how it does, but keep your expectations very low soo you don't get too frustrated if you can't seem to get the thing dialed in. Next would be to source a Holley 2300 in a 350 cfm rating. If that 500 is in good shape, you could probably find someone to buy it from you or maybe even swing a trade with someone who has a good 350 cfm version and wants the bigger carb you have.

 

[Winchested]

A list 4412 is not an OEM carb. It's an aftermarket 500 cfm carb primarily intended for high revving, high performance applications. It's really too much carb for most any IH engine. It's difficult if not impossible to make them run right across the spectrum on an SV8.

Shoot would have helped if I had looked that up. Just figured it looked old and worn!

 

[Winchested]

Really appreciate the information!

Questions regarding your info for the PCV setup.

1) is that setup even correct as is? I thought that flame arrestor would be hooked up to fresh air coming from the air filter. There is a spot coming off my air filter but that fits a hose running somewhere to the bottom of the engine.

2) would I just buy the mesh screen and place it inside the current? I can’t seem to find the whole unit unless I’m simply missing something.

The flame arrestor is usually on the top of a valve cover hosed to the air intake plenum. Plenty of people remove the flame arrestor and just run a small air filter.

IHPA's option:

Flame Arrestor Kit for IH V8 Engine

Check out the deal on Flame Arrestor Kit for IH V8 Engine at IH Parts America

www.ihpartsamerica.com

 

[PAscout800]

Got it. I do not have anywhere on my valve cover to attach it.

1) in the event I would get rid of the arrestor and/or attach that hose (instead of to the pcv at the valley), to the air intake, where would I attach the hose to that runs to the pcv?

2) is the current setup inherently wrong or stifle performance? Why would someone have routed it that way?

 

[PAscout800]

Your least expensive option would be to service what you have and see how it does, but keep your expectations very low soo you don't get too frustrated if you can't seem to get the thing dialed in. Next would be to source a Holley 2300 in a 350 cfm rating. If that 500 is in good shape, you could probably find someone to buy it from you or maybe even swing a trade with someone who has a good 350 cfm version and wants the bigger carb you have.

Understandable. Haven’t dealt with a carb since my Suzuki samurai, so have to learn a lot here. I assume the 500 is simply taking in too much air and causing a balancing or air/fuel to be off?

 

[int77345]

the 500 makes it to easy to pull air in causing a low velocity of air flowing through the carb in to the engine. causing the air and fuel not to mix as good as it would on a 350

i think you can get it to work ok though especially to pass the time until you decide what you want to do.

 

[Scoutboy74]

It's the fueling side of this carb that is most problematic for a slow revving, poor breathing IH engine. The engine can't demand enough air to mix properly with all the fuel that the carb is designed to deliver. It's likely to be pig rich for you.

 

[Winchested]

Got it. I do not have anywhere on my valve cover to attach it.

1) in the event I would get rid of the arrestor and/or attach that hose (instead of to the pcv at the valley), to the air intake, where would I attach the hose to that runs to the pcv?

2) is the current setup inherently wrong or stifle performance? Why would someone have routed it that way?

I'm not sure I do not have the service manual for the 80s/800s only the Scout II and D series trucks. IHPA does sell the service manuals. Maybe get one, good investment.

 

[Zaedster]

Hey everyone, it’s my first time posting on the forum. I have been reading quite a bit on scouts (this forum and others) and figured I would see if you all could help me out here.

‘67 scout 800
Front and rear drum brakes
Holley carb
Runs and idles, drives, stops with a ton of pressure

1) I cannot find out which rebuild kit to get for the carb. There are like 5 numbers on the carb and mounting plate. I think it’s a 2300? The numbers on the carb are as follows-
3975-1
6R 3250 3D
4412-2
2913
5925 3

2) lots of opinions on this apparently..do I keep it manual choke? Do I get the electronic choke added? Do I spend up and get the whole kit and kaboodle? What’s your reasoning?

3) is it worth going to front disc and keep rear drum? My brakes “work” now, but are incredibly stiff and the pedal moves like 1/4inch. I will get a new master cylinder and maybe brake lines, but do I need a brake booster as well?

4) pcv valve setup. I pulled the pcv valve from the top end and it there were zero guts or diaphragm. I couldn’t get the one out below it near the valley, but that was a thread in valve as well. Every single one I have seen online is not threaded, but smooth with a grommet.

5) they put a small electric fuel pump instead of the larger on in the engine bay. Am I missing out by having this one instead?

6) besides plugs, boots, distributor/rotor, any other info or tips on what I should get for a smooth running engine would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

ANSWERS IN THIS TEXT BELOW

‘67 scout 800
Front and rear drum brakes
Holley carb
Runs and idles, drives, stops with a ton of pressure


1) I cannot find out which rebuild kit to get for the carb. There are like 5 numbers on the carb and mounting plate. I think it’s a 2300? The numbers on the carb are as follows-
3975-1
6R 3250 3D
4412-2
2913
5925 3

THAT IS AN AFTERMARKET 500 CFM HOLLEY 2300. PROBABLY TOO MUCH CARB FOR YOUR ENGINE.

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/holley-carb-kit.html - CHOOSE THE 2300 OPTION

2) lots of opinions on this apparently..do I keep it manual choke? Do I get the electronic choke added? Do I spend up and get the whole kit and kaboodle? What’s your reasoning?

MANUAL CHOKE IS BETTER IN MOST CASES. I WOULDN'T CHANGE IT.

3) is it worth going to front disc and keep rear drum? My brakes “work” now, but are incredibly stiff and the pedal moves like 1/4inch. I will get a new master cylinder and maybe brake lines, but do I need a brake booster as well?

BRAKES WILL BE STILL STIFF WITH FRONT DISC BRAKE KIT. I WOULD START WITH A BOOSTER/MASTER CYLINDER COMBO. KIT CAN BE BOUGHT OVER THE PHONE AT IH PARTS AMERICA. DISC DOES STOP BETTER WITH APPLIED FORCE IMPROVEMENTS.

4) pcv valve setup. I pulled the pcv valve from the top end and it there were zero guts or diaphragm. I couldn’t get the one out below it near the valley, but that was a thread in valve as well. Every single one I have seen online is not threaded, but smooth with a grommet.

1967 WAS THE FIRST OF THE PCV ERA, DEPENDING ON 48 STATE OR CA VERSION. IT MAY HAVE A DRAFT TUBE ON THE VALLEY PAN (TAPPET COVER) OR A HOSE COMING OFF THE OIL FILLER TO THE TIMING COVER WITH A VACUUM SOURCE TO MANIFOLD. YOU CAN INSTALL AN AFTERMARKET MANIFOLD PCV IF YOU GET A LATER SV VALLEY PAN FOR PCV GROMMET AND RUN THE LATER SLIP IN VERSION TO MANIFOLD VACUUM IF YOU'D LIKE TO. CALL US FOR PARTS.

5) they put a small electric fuel pump instead of the larger on in the engine bay. Am I missing out by having this one instead?

PRETTY COMMON. AS LONG AS IT IS DONE CORRECTLY AND NOT PROVIDING MORE THAN 4-6 PSI TO THE CARB. I WOULD CHECK AND MAKE SURE YOU AREN'T MISSING OUT ON .2587487458 MPG. YOU WILL NEED AN ELECTRIC WIPER CONVERSION KIT WITHOUT THE FACTORY PUMP.

6) besides plugs, boots, distributor/rotor, any other info or tips on what I should get for a smooth running engine would be greatly appreciated!

NEED TO START WITH THE BASICS TO ASK THIS QUESTION. GO THROUGH THE IGNITION, TIMING AND ENGINE CONDITION BEFORE THIS QUESTION CAN BE ASKED IF IT RUNS POOR AFTER CHECKING/TUNING

Thanks!