2300 Holley install

ScoutWoody

ScoutWoody

New member
I have a 1977 Scout 2 SS that needs some love. Initially, I cleaned and reassembled the 2 Bbl carb, just to get the engine running and evaluate its condition. It ran, like crap, but stable enough for me to diagnose what I needed to. I was creeping the forums and figured out which carb to buy for the 345. I installed the 2300 today and it ran like a top right out of the box. After a short period of time I shut the engine off and tried to restart it. The engine turned over then went dead. Not a slow decline in power that a dead battery would create, just a sudden stop of power. When I turn the key.....nothing. My experience with scouts is minimal, I have only wrenched on a Chevelle....So I'm wondering if there is a known problem in the steering column or with the wiring that these are notorious for?

Ill be moving er to the garage to tear her down this winter and prepare for a frame off. I'm excited, and I'll expect that I'll be bothering this forum a lot!

Thanks for any advice, wisdom, or lessons learned that can be passed on .


 
FDChappie said:
The Scout uses a chevy vega column, so it should be similar to the chevelle.
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My man, you made my day! I have a few Chevelle column parts around that may just come in handy....Are Internationals like AMC vehicles, where they used parts from other car companies? If so, is there a place to X reference common parts?
 
Most of the parts are proprietary. Alternators are Delco Remy 10si same as in millions GM vehicles. The starter is a Delco also, but the nose cone is specific to the IH engines. The power steering pumps are GM style. The way the primary power distribution and charge system wiring is done with an ammeter gauge is basically MOPAR. The auto trans is Torqueflite A727, but the aluminum case is specific to the IH block pattern. The 2 speed Dana 20 transfer cases are the same as the CJ Jeeps.
As for electrical gremlins, they've got all of 'em. The firewall bulkhead connectors are the main problem area. It looks like yours is a manual trans, didn't see the auto kickdown linkage, so you don't have to worry about a funky neutral start switch. Your first junction downstream from the battery is at the starter mounted solenoid. Make sure you have volts there and then trace the 10GA blue wire from there up to the main firewall BHC.
 
Scoutboy74 said:
Most of the parts are proprietary. Alternators are Delco Remy 10si same as in millions GM vehicles. The starter is a Delco also, but the nose cone is specific to the IH engines. The power steering pumps are GM style. The way the primary power distribution and charge system wiring is done with an ammeter gauge is basically MOPAR. The auto trans is Torqueflite A727, but the aluminum case is specific to the IH block pattern. The 2 speed Dana 20 transfer cases are the same as the CJ Jeeps.
As for electrical gremlins, they've got all of 'em. The firewall bulkhead connectors are the main problem area. It looks like yours is a manual trans, didn't see the auto kickdown linkage, so you don't have to worry about a funky neutral start switch. Your first junction downstream from the battery is at the starter mounted solenoid. Make sure you have volts there and then trace the 10GA blue wire from there up to the main firewall BHC.
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Thanks! Appreciate the info. Good eye, she is standard. The wiring is a bit of a concern to me. The gent I purchased it from is a buddy of mine, and his father bought it off the line. The body was redone in the 80's due to rust, and is now mostly fiberglass. As you can see in my video, with the hoses, it seems stuff might have been codgered together....there is a heater/blower motor and a few unmarked toggle switches that have been added to the vehicle....and a few mystery wires floating around.....fortunately I have a historic reference person who can provide the reasons for the additions...There is rust under it, but I climbed under the truck and pried and hit and no holes I could find. Its a better starting point than my Chev was, so Im not overly worried. Wrenching is a bit therapeutic to me.
 
See if you can crank the starter by jumping the posts, In neutral with the wheels chocked or parking brake on (dont run over your self lol)

If it cranks starter and solenoid are good. Then try doing it with the ignition switched on. If it wont run you have ignition issues.
 
you mentioned toggle switches.... have you tried flipping them and seeing if anything changes. i bet one is a kill switch and kills the electrical power.
 
int77345 said:
you mentioned toggle switches.... have you tried flipping them and seeing if anything changes. i bet one is a kill switch and kills the electrical power.
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I flipped one, nothing seemed to happen....but now that you mention it....it could be a power override....hmmmm
 
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